puppy won't stop biting/nipping
- Thread starter cosmo'smom
- Start date
No. And like Renee said, you're not your dog's mother. LOL. We'd be hard pressed to really come off as a dog. (we'd need a whole lot better disguise) LOL.
This idea of trying to emulate dog behavior in ourselves is a fruitless concept. If you stick to proven behavioral training methods, you'll be all right. Control resources. ie: no resources, no treat, no attention....zero, zip, nada if the dog's behavior sucks. Good things when the dog's behavior suits you. Simple as that. And then just let the puppy develop into a mature dog as naturally as you can allow. In other words, while you want and need to teach the pup manners, compliance, how to live with humans our way, don't take away his puppyhood by being too serious.
This idea of trying to emulate dog behavior in ourselves is a fruitless concept. If you stick to proven behavioral training methods, you'll be all right. Control resources. ie: no resources, no treat, no attention....zero, zip, nada if the dog's behavior sucks. Good things when the dog's behavior suits you. Simple as that. And then just let the puppy develop into a mature dog as naturally as you can allow. In other words, while you want and need to teach the pup manners, compliance, how to live with humans our way, don't take away his puppyhood by being too serious.
There are 4 scenerios in operant conditioning. Negative punishment and Positive punishment are used to decrease the chances of a behavior being repeated. Negative reinforcement and positive reinforcement are used to increase the chances of a specific behavior being repeated. So far, I have'nt found negative reinforcement or positive punishment to be neccesary while working with my dogs.
I mostly use Negative Punishment (take away something desirable to decrease the likelihood of a behavior reoccuring) and Positive Reinforcement (add something desirable to increase the likelihood of a behavior reoccuring).
I do use punishment, I just don't use physical punishment.
In order for physical corrections to be effective they must be strong but not so strong that they physically and/or mentally harm the dog. Too strong will likely cause fear and possibly even aggression. Too weak will not be effective enough and will allow the dog to build up a tolerance as the corrections gradually become stronger but still remain ineffective. I guess my main problem with physical corrections is that they seem to be, more often than not, misused. They are applied too strong or not strong enough, applied with poor timing and some people use "correction" equipment without even taking the time to learn how to use it properly. Further more, alot of correction based training seems to be focused on the concept of dominance theory....using corrections to dominate your dog so that he respects you as "alpha".
Just my opinion.
I think I understand you but I'm not sure you understand what I'm trying to say which is just that there are ways other than physical "corrections" to teach a dog what you don't want it to do in many situations. I'm not experienced enough to dispute your theory that, in some situations, a physical "correction" is necessary.
I mostly use Negative Punishment (take away something desirable to decrease the likelihood of a behavior reoccuring) and Positive Reinforcement (add something desirable to increase the likelihood of a behavior reoccuring).
I do use punishment, I just don't use physical punishment.
In order for physical corrections to be effective they must be strong but not so strong that they physically and/or mentally harm the dog. Too strong will likely cause fear and possibly even aggression. Too weak will not be effective enough and will allow the dog to build up a tolerance as the corrections gradually become stronger but still remain ineffective. I guess my main problem with physical corrections is that they seem to be, more often than not, misused. They are applied too strong or not strong enough, applied with poor timing and some people use "correction" equipment without even taking the time to learn how to use it properly. Further more, alot of correction based training seems to be focused on the concept of dominance theory....using corrections to dominate your dog so that he respects you as "alpha".
Just my opinion.
I think I understand you but I'm not sure you understand what I'm trying to say which is just that there are ways other than physical "corrections" to teach a dog what you don't want it to do in many situations. I'm not experienced enough to dispute your theory that, in some situations, a physical "correction" is necessary.
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Each breed of dog has it's own stubornist. I think that's one of the reasons I love Golden Retrievers so. A touch on the nose to contact ..eye to eye contact and a no-bite , or no anything sinks in. ( I used "Mine" a lot when chewing on something that's not theirs and substitute,) From puppy stage on, when they are into something they shouldn't be, all I have to do is clear my throat and they stop. They know right from wrong!
opokki said:
There are 4 scenerios in operant conditioning. Negative punishment and Positive punishment are used to decrease the chances of a behavior being repeated. Negative reinforcement and positive reinforcement are used to increase the chances of a specific behavior being repeated. So far, I have'nt found negative reinforcement or positive punishment to be neccesary while working with my dogs.
I mostly use Negative Punishment (take away something desirable to decrease the likelihood of a behavior reoccuring) and Positive Reinforcement (add something desirable to increase the likelihood of a behavior reoccuring).
I do use punishment, I just don't use physical punishment.
In order for physical corrections to be effective they must be strong but not so strong that they physically and/or mentally harm the dog. Too strong will likely cause fear and possibly even aggression. Too weak will not be effective enough and will allow the dog to build up a tolerance as the corrections gradually become stronger but still remain ineffective. I guess my main problem with physical corrections is that they seem to be, more often than not, misused. They are applied too strong or not strong enough, applied with poor timing and some people use "correction" equipment without even taking the time to learn how to use it properly. Further more, alot of correction based training seems to be focused on the concept of dominance theory....using corrections to dominate your dog so that he respects you as "alpha".
Just my opinion.
I mostly use Negative Punishment (take away something desirable to decrease the likelihood of a behavior reoccuring) and Positive Reinforcement (add something desirable to increase the likelihood of a behavior reoccuring).
I do use punishment, I just don't use physical punishment.
In order for physical corrections to be effective they must be strong but not so strong that they physically and/or mentally harm the dog. Too strong will likely cause fear and possibly even aggression. Too weak will not be effective enough and will allow the dog to build up a tolerance as the corrections gradually become stronger but still remain ineffective. I guess my main problem with physical corrections is that they seem to be, more often than not, misused. They are applied too strong or not strong enough, applied with poor timing and some people use "correction" equipment without even taking the time to learn how to use it properly. Further more, alot of correction based training seems to be focused on the concept of dominance theory....using corrections to dominate your dog so that he respects you as "alpha".
Just my opinion.
I agree completely. There absolutely are other ways to tell your dog what you want him to know.
LOL...
Can somebody please sum this down for me?
Okay, so the best ways to stop nipping are:
1) Isolate him.
And... uh, that's it...?
I usually hold his snout shut for a few seconds saying "stop" and then when I release he kind of nips out and then I say, "Good boy" and he starts licking.
I know people are against this but this truly the ONLY way he stops. There really is no other way... he's that stubborn .
Can somebody please sum this down for me?
Okay, so the best ways to stop nipping are:
1) Isolate him.
And... uh, that's it...?
I usually hold his snout shut for a few seconds saying "stop" and then when I release he kind of nips out and then I say, "Good boy" and he starts licking.
I know people are against this but this truly the ONLY way he stops. There really is no other way... he's that stubborn
.
German Shepherds can be extra stubborn, can't they? When Shiva and Kharma got REALLY bad about trying to chew on me I ended up wrapping my fingers around their lower jaws and just holding it for a few seconds. It didn't hurt at all, they couldn't bite down when I had hold of the lower jaw, and it didn't take that long for either one of them to decide that biting just wasn't as much fun as they thought it was.
Well to be honest, the whole ignoring thing when he bites isn't working so well here. Especially as half the time, he only jumps/nips at you when you are turning away from him in the first place. So, I just ignore him, and when he calms down makes him sit and then pet him.. and he's biting again as soon as I move.
And he moves too fast to catch his snot too anyway. So I'm pretty much at a loss of what to do, except of course wait 4 more months until he finally gets it...
And he moves too fast to catch his snot too anyway. So I'm pretty much at a loss of what to do, except of course wait 4 more months until he finally gets it...
Keep at it. When he bites at you while you're turning around, keep walking away. Go lock yourself in the bathroom if you have to for 1 or 2 minutes. Don't look at him, don't speak, don't make any movements toward him. IGNORE and remove the payoff. When you come back, ask for a sit and or give a chew toy. Praise for that. Just show him the contrast: What happens when he doesn't bite? (praise, pat, attention, treat, toy) What happens when he does bite? (Mommy go bye bye. No attention, no praise, no pat, no treat, no nothin'.) In about 5 or 6 months, (give or take) he'll finally get it most likely. Be consistant and don't change methods when one doesn't work after a week of trying. That will confuse the dog. Stay with it and grin and bear it because that's what puppies do. LOL.