dominace help guys

Rubylove

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#41
Probably not - but I wonder if those episodes of scruff shaking or `coming down hard' triggered those two or three incidents in the first place. Don't get me wrong - I'm not having a go at you at all, but I don't consider having episodes `serious enough to warrant' physical correction to be an entirely stable dog.

You never answer violence with violence, is one of my cardinal rules in training and under no circumstances should it ever be broken. You can be lucky if there are no repercussions, but really that's all it is - luck.

You asked what should be done at that precise moment, well, this is what I would do. I would remove the dog from the situation firmly, no eye contact, no speaking, no noise of any kind, just definitely and firmly remove him to a place where is alone, ignored and unstimulated. Time-out is an opportunity for dogs to settle down when they are feeling agitated, and it also serves a more important purpose and that is to show the dog that any kind of behaviour such as whatever it was he was displaying is unacceptable and results in total isolation - complete removal from the source. That way there is NO pay-off and NO reinforcement of the behaviour. Misbehave - you're on your own. It gets the message through as thoroughly and in a much more meaningful way than a scruff shake or an alpha roll or anything like this.

Of course - if there was a dog with serious aggression problem you would handle the situation differently but STILL with no physical punishment or violence. It simply does not fix the problem. It might work in the short-term, but you have not got to the bottom of the reasons behind the aggression, so physical correction is a poor and dangerous band-aid approach.

But in situations like the one you mention with your cat - well, your dog was being a dog. There were a number of pay-offs in that situation for your dog, and by treating it with aggression you may have taught it to associate aggressive behaviour with the cat. Your dog may behave beautifully towards that cat for ten years and then something may trigger the memory and the cat will suffer for it. Hopefully (probably) this will not happen, but it's not the best approach.

Of course, when you are confronted with a situation like this you often react on gut instinct, much as you would with a child, and with a child you could growl and scold and pull the child away, but it would understand you and understand your reasoning. I'm not saying to do that with children, my point is at some level they know where you're coming from. With a dog it's different - it's all about cause and effect. One of the most effective methods of correction is isolation. They hate it, and they will try to avoid it.

So your dog is still being `punished' I suppose, for want of a better word, but there is no aggression or violence involved.

You need to think like a dog, not like a human, before methods like this start to make sense, but once they do, most people wonder how they ever thought any other way.
 

silverpawz

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#42
You never answer violence with violence, is one of my cardinal rules in training and under no circumstances should it ever be broken.
If a dog is attacking another animal or person, I'm going to get the dog off even if I have to use violence to do so. When it comes to the saftey of other living beings, I won't pussy foot around in fear of damaging a dog's spirit and risk serious injury to the one being bitten because I didn't act quickly or firmly enough to stop it. If I have to grab the dog's scruff and yank him off, you better belive I will.

We train and practice and supervise and try hard to prevent these things from happening, but sometimes they do regardless and in those situations there's no room for gentle methods. You get the dog off, whatever way you have too.

I would remove the dog from the situation firmly, no eye contact, no speaking, no noise of any kind, just definitely and firmly remove him to a place where is alone, ignored and unstimulated. Time-out is an opportunity for dogs to settle down when they are feeling agitated, and it also serves a more important purpose and that is to show the dog that any kind of behaviour such as whatever it was he was displaying is unacceptable and results in total isolation
Dogs live in the moment. He's not going to realize that he's in a room alone because of what he did 20 seconds ago. That walk from the fight, to the isolation room is mighty long in dog-time. The dog may calm down, but he's not thinking, "gee, I better not be aggressive anymore or else they'll put me in this room again".

No. That isn't how it works. If you want to make an impression that a certain behavior is unaccptable, it needs to be done IN the moment to have any effect at all. Just like you have to reward within a certain time frame when you're teaching a command for the dog to associate the food with the command, you also have to correct within a certain time frame for them to assciate the correction with the behavior.

Not to mention that the payoff for fighting, far outweighs the negatives of being put in a room alone.

I'm not saying go yank the snot out of your dogs if they fight or aggress, I'm just pointing out that using a time out for such behavior is not as effective as many people assume it is.

Personally, I'd grab the dog and make him lie down and stay right there on the spot. (and none of this "he won't lie down" crap. That's what training is for.) Then we'd run through some obedience drills.
 

Rubylove

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#43
How did I know there would be a post from you directly after mine? :D

I think you didn't read my post aright. I said that a time-out method wouldn't work for more serious aggression, it was a method I would use in a situation like the one with the cat, and was aimed specifically at that situation.

I also disagree that removing a dog from a situation is not immediate enough. Taking your dog away the second something happens and placing him in isolation is related directly to the act itself, and is not confusing for the dog if done instantaneously. I also did not say that you can't physically handle the dog when you do this - I would take the dog by the scruff or collar to lead him away, of course - the dog needs to be removed, not to decide to remove itself.

Again, I reiterate that it is not what I would do in a situation of more serious aggression such as you point out, I'm saying that I would use it for infractions such as the one I initially responded to.
 

silverpawz

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#44
How did I know there would be a post from you directly after mine?
:D Because I can't keep my trap shut half the time. My fingers, they itch to type. I know everyone is always so excited to read my thoughtful and helpful replies, so I didn't want to dissapoint. ;)

I said that a time-out method wouldn't work for more serious aggression
I did miss the part where you said it wouldn't work for serious aggression.

Still, I personally don't feel that time outs are effective for treating any sort of aggression, or any sort of behavior problem for that matter.

They do serve a purpose to give the dog and the humans a chance to cool off, but no, I don't believe it's imediet enough to have a lasting effect.

I'm sure there are people who claim to have success with this way, and certainly there are some dogs who eventually make the connection, but it takes much longer and more repetions to sink in. And again, being isolated is not enough of a deterant for many dogs to stop the behavior if the reward outweighs the punishment.
 

Rubylove

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#45
You know - you're right, and I should have said that in my view it's a great way to initially dispel a situation and should always be followed up by obedience drills and so forth, as you pointed out.

It is NOT a `cure' for behaviour issues - because whilst effective it is hard, as you say, to get it right and make it immediate, and then you can be left in a situation where the dog is sitting in a room wondering what on earth it's doing there...lol. And it can be time consuming as well.

But I have to say that in puppies in particular, it's highly effective, and I have always had a lot of success with it. But I think I might have made it out to be the be-all and end-all and it's not - just a small component of a bigger picture.
 

Doberluv

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#46
If you want to make an impression that a certain behavior is unaccptable, it needs to be done IN the moment to have any effect at all.
I don't think in the moment while the dog is acting aggressively to any animal or person is the time for training or trying to make any impression. It is an emergency and you have to manage the situation any way you can, whether you yank the dog off, take a 2x4 and shove it inbetween his teeth, whatever. At that moment, that emergency, you have to think about managing and not think about training.

Later, when things are calmed down is the time to analyze and address the catalyst which is causing the dog to react however it is he's reacting. Then it's time to make a plan on how you're going to desensatize or counter condition the dog to whatever the stimuli is which is setting him off. There can be many causes of aggression and they vary in how they're dealt with depending on what's going on...or what is surmised as to what's going on in the dog's psyche. Using aggressive, harsh methods to help a dog with aggression issues is counter productive. At best it supresses the behavior for the time being....but it can create a time bomb of a dog and regression is very common.

A dog can be condtioned to whatever the stimuli is by turning the absense of the stimuli into the reward... at first. (if it's something say...that the dog wants to go away) Then transforming the stiumuli to become paired with the reward or reinforcer. All this is done gradually under controlled situations....distance is controlled, intensity of the stimuli is controlled.

You cannot train a dog at the moment he is in full attack mode. He's likely in fight or flight and he can't think anyhow. You can only manage the immediate danger.
 

silverpawz

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#47
Weather or not you should correct in the moment wasn't my point.

I was only trying to explain that should a person be so inclined to attempt to show the dog a certain behavior is unaccpetable, then you must act in the moment and not afterward if you want the dog to associate your action with the behavior.
 

Doberluv

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#48
Time outs in and of themselves are taking place after the 3 seconds that are needed for the dog to make a connection between his behavior and the time out, yes. Agreed. However, if a time out has happened many times, the act of leading the dog off and away (a secondary negative rein forcer) will be paired with that isolation. He will learn that being lead away is a predictor of social isolation which is an often effective negative reinforcer. IMO. I've seen it work with my own dogs too. (not aggression issues, but other things....very effective) When the dog is "behaving," and brought back into the social circle or otherwise rewarded, he can connect his behavior with being sociable and getting rewarded. If the dog doesn't perceive being in the social circle as anything good, then another approach would be made. What motivates the dog at the time has to be known. And the situation or scenario needs to be manipulated in such a way that the dog is likely to succeed, thereby being reinforced. Of course, timing and delivery of reinforcers have an effect on training.

In the case of a dog fight or other upset, I don't think that is the time to deal with it, only to manage it. I know it wasn't your point, but nevertheless I think it's important because most people assume they need to do something right then and there to teach their dog a lesson as to what's "acceptable." And hence the scruff shaking, jowl lifting or other aversives. A dog in such an agitated state especially, is very prone to re-direct his aggression on the person who is doing this. And that IMO is the wrong approach. Words like "unacceptable" are so not about what the dog is capable of understanding in the way humans understand what's acceptable. That is purely a human concept based on our own morals and values. Training is training. It's systematic. There are ways. It is not about projecting our ideals of acceptability onto another specie or showing them who's tougher by scruffing them or otherwise attacking them. That does not impart any useful information. It is dangerous and it's not good leadership or animal husbandry.
 

silverpawz

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#49
Words like "unacceptable" are so not about what the dog is capable of understanding in the way humans understand what's acceptable. That is purely a human concept based on our own morals and values.
But, but....I'm human. I have to explain it in a way I can understand. LOL

I don't expect the dog to get the concept of unacceptable. But dogs can learn that a certain behavior will produce an action from the human, if that action is aversive they learn to avoid triggering it by not doing the behavior.

It's the same way they learn that sitting on command produces a treat. Cause and effect goes both ways, which I'm sure we can agree on.
 

Doberluv

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#50
Cause and effect goes both ways, which I'm sure we can agree on.
Yes, definitely. I just tend to warn unsuspecting dog owners who may be reading to be careful about assuming that dogs understand the deeper meaning of some of our concepts. Yes, cause and effect. Exactly. However, with aversives there are often detrimental side effects so by setting up or manipulating the situation so the dog can be rewarded for wanted behavior (which is diametrically opposed to the rotten behavior) rather than harshly punished for rotten behavior, that is what "positive" training is all about. LOL.
 

silverpawz

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#51
However, with aversives there are often detrimental side effects so by setting up or manipulating the situation so the dog can be rewarded for wanted behavior (which is diametrically opposed to the rotten behavior) rather than harshly punished for rotten behavior, that is what "positive" training is all about.
Agreed.
We were talking about "in the moment" situations though and that's really different than having the time to set a dog up to succeed. In an ideal situation of course that's preferred. :)
 

Doberluv

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#52
Yes, in the moment situations, emergencies need to be prevented if possible and if not, then managed. Training, trying to get something across is for later. Scruffing and scolding or otherwise attacking is not the way to handle in the moment situations. Pulling away, physically blocking....those kinds of things are for in the moment. JMO.
 

Jynx

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#53
Silverpawz, thank you, you explained my "thoughts" much better than I.

Ruby, as to one of your q's as to whether my scruff shaking my aussie during the cat episode,,that was the first time he'd ever warranted a negative correction for a serious infraction. "Leave it" wasn't working with him, redirecting wasn't working with him, removing him from the situation wasn't working, he was out for blood and getting phsyical by scruff shaking got my point across, he did it once more, probably within a day or so, and he's never ever done it again. That was 3 years ago.

Diane
 

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