What is Socialization?

Doberluv

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#1
The thread on creative socialization ideas prompted me to post this. This should explain what the sensitive socialization window or sometimes called the critical socialization period is all about. Renee, you mentioned that you didn't buy into this concept of this window of time from birth to about 3-5 months of age in domestic dogs. I thought Jean's words would explain just what is going on much better than mine would.

Sure, we've all seen, heard of or had dogs that seemed to defy this truth about all animals. There is usually a reason for these seeming oddities. We just may not see what it is. My son's dog, Toker is also a dog that seemed to defy all odds that were stacked against her as a puppy. She was socialized, but she was also traumatized as a puppy and has turned out to be a very stable dog in spite of it. I think her temperament is good and her after care was good. She regained trust and got over most all of her fearfulness.

And of course, like usual, I highly recommend Jean's book. This is just one small part of it.


Excerpt from Jean Donaldson's Culture Clash.



What is Socialization

Socialization means habituation, or getting used to environmental elements through exposure to them. In a natural setting, it is highly adaptive to increase distance between yourself and anything unusual and then to proceed with extreme caution when approaching. This is because unusual things are potentially very bad news. (They certainly aren’t necessary for survival because you’ve made it this far without them.) Animals adhere to rules governing social distance. So do we, if you think about it. We tolerate someone standing right against us in a crowded elevator but would be instantly spooked by the same person standing that close if we were the only two in the elevator. Someone can walk up and stand right behind you if you’re in a line-up at the grocery store, but someone doing exactly the same thing when you’re in the driveway washing your car is a whole other story. We can also, like other animals, be very weird about being touched.

In animals, curiosity is antagonistic to fear, and usually less pronounced. While it is potentially adaptive to explore novel things in case they yield some advantage, (especially in the case of predators), excessive curiosity would eventually result in exposure to danger and hence reproductive disadvantage. In other words, the cost of a false positive (spooking away from something that is in fact harmless or beneficial) is greatly outweighed by the cost of a false negative (failing to spook away from something that is dangerous). You can’t pass on those curious genes if you’re dead or injured. Consider, for instance, that you’d think about any wild animal in the forest that didn’t flee from you or didn’t put on an aggressive display if you cornered it. Would you think he was a “nice†animal or would you think he was, say, sick? Avoidance of novelty is the default setting for animals. All these truths about animals are pretty self-evident. And, lest we forget, dogs are animals.

Because it would not be adaptive for animals to be continuously spooking at rocks and trees and bird song, a mechanism is wired in to ensure the animal habituates to normal environmental features. This is the socialization period, a finite time when young animals are much less fearful and are much more likely to approach and investigate novel things. And they readily form social bonds.

Adult animals can habituate to novel things too; it simply takes much longer. The socialization window cannot remain open forever. If it did, then you could have animals trotting up to you in the forest. Every species of animal has acquired, through natural selection, an average time to assimilate and accept things in their environment. After this period, they will behave to increase distance, through fight/flight mechanisms, from anything to which they have not been socialized. There is also a “use it or lose it†clause; some animals will become increasingly fearful of things they may have encountered in the critical period but see too seldom thereafter.

Notice that the pressure is always in the direction of increasing fearfulness and avoidance, never the other way. Artificial pressure needs to be constantly exerted to get animals to behave tolerantly. It must be actively bred for and/or installed in the socialization period and maintained thereafter. As soon as there is any weakness in this system, the animal starts leaning towards fight/flight. By definition, the socialization period, be it one day or several months, is what works well for that species in the environment in which it evolved. In the case of domestic dogs, the socialization window closes somewhere between three and five months of age, depending on the breed and individual make-up, with easy habituation drying up by around four-and-a-half months of age in the majority of cases. These thresholds are a matter of consensus, by the way, not strong empirical research. Many of us would really, really like to know what’s going on regarding critical socialization periods in dogs, and any relevant details regarding breed differences. The trend among hard-core dog people is toward earlier and earlier formal socialization, ie; puppy classes for puppies in the seven-to eleven-week old range. There is increasing willingness to balance the socialization imperative with the need for pathogen avoidance in young puppies with inadequate immunity.

The importance of a critical period for socialization is hard to overestimate. If, for instance, a puppy doesn’t get sufficient exposure to men with beards before the socialization clock runs out, the risk for fear responses and aggression at men with beards runs higher for that dog as an adult. It’s particularly wrinkly because dogs are expert discriminators: adequate socialization to women or eight-year old kids, for example, does not guarantee a generalization to men or two-year-old kids. Therefore, it’s advisable to go way overboard covering all the bases before the socialization window closes, especially for spookier breeds or individuals. This means exposing the puppy to as wide a social sphere as possible in terms of human age groups, sexes, sizes, shapes, colors and gaits. The experiences should be positive (play, treats, nothing scary) and include a wide variety of patting, handling and movement by the humans. It also means getting the puppy use to anything it may have to encounter in later life, such as car rides, veterinary exams (make the first one or two fun rather than scary), cats, traffic, soccer games, elevators, and pointy sticks.
more....
 

Doberluv

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#2
Pumped up Socialization

I think there are dual benefits to heavy socialization. One is obvious: the more you socialize the puppy, the fewer things you’ll miss. The second advantage is a more global effect: the more the puppy encounters novel situations in which it initially is reluctant or spooky and then gets over it and habituates (as puppies do so well), the more the underlying trait of stability or “bounce-back” is developed. The puppy’s overall confidence grows. The more puppy hood experiences a dog has to draw on, the more resilient the character. The mild stresses of regular novelty in early life are like inoculations. So, provided the puppy had really thorough socialization and developed good “bounce-back,” individual elements that were missed during socialization will be handled more easily by the adult animal. The passive approach (“get the puppy out to a few shopping malls and dog shows”) is inadequate for some individuals. Aim for a systematic, continual, assault-style program. Not only do you end up with a dog who is at reduced risk for fearfulness and biting, but one who also is under much less chronic stress as an adult.

The puppy that has had positive experiences is less likely as an adult to spook in a challenging situation that the dog who had only neutral experiences. So, why not improve your odds of getting a relaxed, confident, solid adult temperament by actively increasing the number of strongly positive experiences? This is like putting money in the bank. (Also note, if the puppy has a negative experience on the first trial of exposure to something, a full blown phobia can be acquired.) Why go for a dog who’s more or less habituated to screaming toddlers or teenagers on roller blades when you can end up with one who actively likes them?

In socialization to any category of people, the single best way to obtain this cushion is through hand-feeding. Rather than simply getting the puppy around young children, have young children hand feed the puppy small tasty treats. Each treat builds up a little more money in the bank for young children. Another method, suitable for predatory types who are addicted to games with toys or balls, is to have people in the category you’re trying to cover engage in favorite games with the puppy.


Socialization Hit List

Adult women neutral: meets in corridor…….….positive: hand-fed by

Adult men neutral: visits house………….Positive: hand fed by

Teenagers neutral: sees on street……….Positive: hand fed by

8-12 year olds neutral: Patted by in park…… positive: hand fed by

4-7 yr olds neutral: sees in schoolyard positive: hand fed by
(she goes on with lots of other examples, such as toddlers, babies, beards, hats, sunglasses, odd gaits, dancing all races, crowds, wheelchairs, bikes, in line skates, traffic, car rides cat/livestock, dogs. The passive approach is to see or be near. The positive approach is to pair it with a tasty treat from the person or from the owner (a cow isn’t going to give the dog a treat) or in the case of car rides…going someplace fun or with other dogs, off leash play.)

If you have a puppy, bite the bullet and socialize it now

Socialization Case History

The Campbell family consists of Mom, Dad and three kids, aged 17, 15 and 11. They recently put to sleep their 10-year-old German Shepherd due to illness. Their other shepherd, aged seven, has always lived with another dog, so the Campbells bought a new shepherd puppy a few months after the death of their older dog. The puppy, Bruce, was bright and naturally very compliant, got along well with the other dog and fitted into the family easily. It was much easier raising this puppy than previous puppies because the family was better off financially than years earlier, had a house in the suburbs with a fenced yard for the dogs to play in and the kids were older and able to take more responsibility for feeding, training and clean-up. The family was shocked and appalled when Bruce, at age eight months, bit a visiting four-year-old girl when she tried to pat the dog. This story is so common it makes me want to scream. The owners are experienced German Shepherd owners. Their first two dogs never bit anyone, never threatened anyone. One was reserved around strangers, simply retreated when they approached, and never in his life felt cornered enough to switch to plan B: biting. The Campbells bought from the same breeder and are at a loss to explain Bruce’s biting because they raised him the same way. What they don’t realize is that they got away with no active socialization with the first two dogs for a number of reasons. They were raised in a household with young children, who had friends over constantly, which covered that base. At the time, they family lived in an apartment so the dogs had regular walks, which exposed them to sights and sounds in a busy city. And their shepherd who avoided strangers was simply a time bomb that never went off.

Time-Bomb Dogs

Bruce experienced the same passive socialization but with a couple of differences. The kids were older when he was a puppy so the occasional kids he saw felt to him like aliens from Mars. The yard offered exercise and elimination which was more convenient than talking him out on leash, so he missed out on regular walks. No walks = no meeting people. The other difference is that his response when spooked was a threat display rather than flight like their previous shepherd, even though his motives were the same as the other dog; to increase distance between himself and the child who tried to touch him.

It’s important to understand that this is not a case of the Campbells doing a good job on the first two dogs and then failing on the third dog, or of the breeder producing a lemon. They never actively socialized any of their dogs but got away with it with the first two. Their timid shepherd would likely have resorted to threat if flight and been unavailable when encountering strangers (plan B). It just never happened. These owners never considered what they were doing to be insufficient until, inevitably, one of their time bombs went off. Many people raise time bomb dogs who, because of some combination of passive socialization, absence of sufficient challenge and that individual dog’s reaction style (flight being plan A), don’t explode and bite during their lifetimes. So generations of dog owners continue to gamble unknowingly. Heavy socialization, although it does not provide a guarantee against biting, vastly improves your odds.

Socialization can be upgraded from neutral to positive experiences and from passive to active. It’s far better to actively seek out those categories of people and things than to hope that enough bases will be covered by whatever experiences happen to come up in the pup’s day to day life. This is especially important for puppies who are at greater risk. These are: puppies of certain breeds, any puppy observed to already be reserved, timid, reactive of sensitive, puppies from litters not whelped and raised in a human-infested home (ie: litters whelped in kennels, barns, etc) puppies belonging to owners who live in rural or quiet suburban areas, puppies whose owners have yards, puppies of small breeds with overprotective owners, puppies raised in multi-dog households (Including dog exhibitors) and puppies of large or scary looking breeds which strangers may avoid.
Anyhow, that’s just part of the chapter. She goes on to talk about puppy classes, bite inhibition and more.
 
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#3
Umm . . . there is no way I could manage to slog through the whole book, lol!

I think perhaps, for me, the most important facet of socialization is, purely and simply, building confidence. Establish self-confidence as a baseline and the rest follows.
 
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We wouldn't have such a need for "socialization" if people just bred better dogs. The crap temperments they produce and then pawn it off on not socializing properly is rediculous. Breed a more stable dog and socialization is easy, just have fun with your dog.
 

Doberluv

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It's too bad you can't read through that part at least. Because behavior and dogs in general, their domestication, their history is so fascinating to me....really my passion, it's not slogging for me. I read her stuff voraciously because she is very economical with her words and really knows her stuff.

Anyhow, socialization, as you can see when reading that post, is a whole lot more specific than simply building confidence, unless you're talking about building confidence through active socialization. As she explains, passiveness...just letting things happen as they happen has great potential to produce "time-bomb" dogs. This is why we hear so much about dogs that are uneasy around people, bite people "out of the blue." Passive socialization is very, very frequently the real reason so many dogs shock their owners because they bite someone sometime in the future. People come up with all kinds of excuses like the dog is "protecting" them or can "sense" bad vibes in someone or doesn't like that the person may be on drugs or some other ambiguous causes. If a dog has been exposed to environmental elements the way she describes in her book, it greatly reduces the risk...doesn't guarantee it, but it is a huge, huge factor in why dogs bite or if they never do, they live with a lot of stress. They may not ever bite if the right combination of triggers compared to the dog's state of mind at one particular time are just right. But it's a crap shoot. Many dogs are not amply habituated to a wide enough array of novel things early enough.
 

Doberluv

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We wouldn't have such a need for "socialization" if people just bred better dogs. The crap temperments they produce and then pawn it off on not socializing properly is rediculous. Breed a more stable dog and socialization is easy, just have fun with your dog.
I think that's true.... but only up to a point. It is a natural and necessary, adaptive/survival function in all animals to require early socialization...habituation to novel things that they will encounter in the future. Domestic dogs are animals so are not exempt. It is true that there are breeds that are extra hard to socialize...need more because they're selected to be aloof with strangers...part of their job. There are also shaky temperaments being bred. But that means more work has to be done in an attempt to compensate for the deficit. No guarantee, but I personally always urge people with puppies to er on the side of caution and cover all bases.
 
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I do think they should cover their bases as well. I always take my puppies out early and often and they see everything I can expose them to from a distance and get as close as they want too. Most are pushy little shits and want to be all over everything all the time, but I think it's important for most dogs to do this.

But with well bred dogs, everything is fun. I don't have to make sure they see blowing trash as something to not be feared. I just go places with them and do stuff and in those cases the socialization does just happen. But I can also see if one is having issues with something and work on that one part.

But man, it seems a lot of dogs, need a lot of extra work these days and I don't think it should be that way, or it shouldn't have to be. Really, we did have a dog at a seminar and for 3 days, and most of the work was seriously on fear of trash on the ground. soda cans, napkins, paper plates whatever, and if it blew in the wind the dog wanted to jump out of her own skin, and a fear biter, even better.
 
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#8
Socialization is an integral part of building that self confidence. That's the reason Kharma can move through the world so well -- she is fully confident that she can handle anything that's thrown at her, so she doesn't have to be proactive. She can wait, and make an informed decision.

It also helps that she has the same trust in me as I have in her. That's also, for me, an integral part of socialization. It's not just an acclimatization on the part of your dog, it's your dog learning that you are a team, and it deepens the bond between you.
 

smkie

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Well you know I am an advocate of daily regular walks, twice a day if at all possible. Confidence plays in it too. Also play dates in other people's homes with other people's dogs. Good training is a must. No matter what the age. I do not agree that if it does not happen at a certain stage that it won't happen. I have seen different too many times.
 

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#10
Great Post:)

I love Culture Clash, and I agree with you 100% Jene is very economical with her words, and I never feel like I need to work at reading through her books.

I just picked up "Fight" A guide to dog-dog aggression which I purchased a year or so ago and somehow have not yet gotten around to it. It's been an excellent read so far.

Thanks for posting those excerpts Dobluvr.

Kayla and Duke
 

Doberluv

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It also helps that she has the same trust in me as I have in her. That's also, for me, an integral part of socialization. It's not just an acclimatization on the part of your dog, it's your dog learning that you are a team, and it deepens the bond between you.
Of course part of socialization is socialization to the dog's owner. It does help to have one's dog trust his/her human and be attached. But it still takes more to develop a really stable, well adjusted adult dog.

I do not agree that if it does not happen at a certain stage that it won't happen. I have seen different too many times.
If you read the excerpt, she doesn't say that it won't happen at all. It can and does, but it takes a LOT more time and a LOT more difficulty for an adult dog with an impovershed puppy-hood socialization history to adapt to novel things. It's much, much easier for a dog when it's a puppy. You may have seen unsocialized dogs or dogs with limited socialization over-come a lot over time. We all know that they can be helped to one degree or another, depending on a lot of variables. Some improve over time, some just don't make much head-way. But how many dogs do you have to use as a study group? Just what was their socialization history? Were they equal in their experiences? Did you follow them from birth on until they were stable and well adusted?

Think about puppy mill dogs. Do you know how screwed up they are? And what it takes to rehabilitate them? It takes an immense amount of patience and time and knowing that treats, hugs and loves aren't always enough. Some of those dogs won't even take treats and are deathly afraid of humans because they've never been touched in a kind way....only ripped from their cages by the scruff of their neck for some occassional vaccination or something. It takes time for them to work through their misery, post traumatic stress and many don't have enough years in their life span to come close to being normal.

I just hope people don't read this and think that slacking on soclialization with their new puppy is no big deal...that it doesn't matter about that finite window of time. That is an adaptive function or feature that all animals possess in order to survive in whatever environment they live in. This is a truth that is well documented by veterinary behaviorists, behavioral biologists, ethologists, people who specialize in zoology and animal behavior. So, while you may not agree with them, I hope most people do for the sake of their dogs. There's nothing I can think of more important in raising a well adjusted dog than good early socialization and continued maintenance of socialization through-out the life-time of the dog.

Great Post

I love Culture Clash, and I agree with you 100% Jene is very economical with her words, and I never feel like I need to work at reading through her books.

I just picked up "Fight" A guide to dog-dog aggression which I purchased a year or so ago and somehow have not yet gotten around to it. It's been an excellent read so far.

Thanks for posting those excerpts Dobluvr.

Kayla and Duke
Kayla, Thanks. I was hoping people would enjoy reading that and learning how nature has this built-in trait for all animals, how and why it works that way and why it's so important. But it seems it is too much reading.

I'm glad you are going to read Fight. It's excellent too. I got that when I had a little trouble with my Doberman with his dog reactivity. I loved Click to Calm as well by Emma Parsons.

I love how you sign your name and Dukes too. LOL. Very cute!
 
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#12
If you read the excerpt, she doesn't say that it won't happen at all. It can and does, but it takes a LOT more time and a LOT more difficulty for an adult dog with an impovershed puppy-hood socialization history to adapt to novel things. It's much, much easier for a dog when it's a puppy.
Perhaps that is not due to a "bubble" but because there are negative associations to overcome? And that most dogs, just as most humans, are resistant to change and new things and become more so as they get older?
 

Doberluv

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Perhaps that is not due to a "bubble" but because there are negative associations to overcome? And that most dogs, just as most humans, are resistant to change and new things and become more so as they get older?
You need to read that whole exerpt carefully and stop guessing. LOL. j/k...just not kidding about reading.:p It is not due to negative associations. It's due to this adaptive, finite "bubble" where all animals must find out what is safe and dangerous, what is advantageous to survival, how to avoid being killed....it's about curiosity vs. caution and how caution is the default setting in ALL animals. It's how all animals develop. This sensitive socialization period is real. It's a feature built into nature.
 
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But . . . it's all really just a theory. There is no proof. Every single behavior theorist has no doubt thought they had found The Truth, and then someone's come up with a laundry list of good reasons to disprove their theories.

I don't believe we've come to the end of the road yet.

I'm not really guessing -- just theorizing based on my own observations over many years, keeping in mind that I've never had a "normal" type breed of dog.

And I'm sorry for not being able to get through her stuff without my mind wandering off in a thousand directions, but it just truly bores me to tears. Most "how to" stuff does. I just want to yell, "OKAY, OKAY ALREADY! GET ON WITH IT!" Or mutter "wherethehellwastheeditor?" :eek:
 

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#15
yes, the reason socialization occurs the best in young animals is because the window must close for the animal to stay safe, this doesn't apply to just dogs of course, but to all animals. If the window is open forever the animals will walk themselves up to dangerous animals or locations/scenarios and get themselves killed. When the animal is young he is exposed to certain things over and over. since he is alive to experience these things multiple times it must be safe (or it would have killed him). This is why, like jean said, wild animals don't spook at the site of rocks and trees (but think about adult dogs who have lived in a cage their whole life, grass is often scary for the first time where as puppies usually don't notice their first time or get over it quickly) So during puppyhood the dog is curious and readily accepts new stimuli and people/animals without much fear or caution. That is one of the reasons wild baby animals die more than adults (obviously they are also smaller, weaker, and slower). For this reason things the pup is repeatedly exposed to are things he does not fear in adulthood. Along the same lines, things he hasn't been exposed to by the time he reaches a certain age are things he does not need to survive, otherwise he would have already died.
New things he encounters after this point could be safe or dangerous, but he certainly does not need them to survive, he was exposed to all those things repeatedly as a pup and is comfortable with them. SO instead of risking getting harmed he assumes the new thing is dangerous to be safe. There is no point in having trust in these new items/locations/animals/whatever, it is potentially dangerous and not necessary to be involved with.


Now of course, dogs have been created by people so I'm sure to an extent we have bred away from some of this. The adults may not be as slow to accept new stimuli like a wild animal would be because we have selectively bred for animals who can adjust. So it's not as extreme in a dog as in a wolf. That is why adult dogs can be socialized. But it is often slower because of this safety mechanism. As with any trait genetics play a role, I'm sure certain breeds had to be able to adjust better than others and certain breeds (guardian breeds for example) were actually bred for their closing window, that's how they know what human behavior is normal and what is strange and therefore potentially dangerous. But I do not think this safety mechanism is gone in dogs, I do think there is a window and that after it "closes" socialization gets harder, slower. As a pup all that is needed is exposure with no bad incidences. For adults I think the experiences have to be really positive, it can't just be neutral exposure but active, positive exposure. In some cases you have to fight against fears that the dog has already formed.


That's my take on the whole thing anyway, basically what Jean said, I love her.
 
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We wouldn't have such a need for "socialization" if people just bred better dogs. The crap temperments they produce and then pawn it off on not socializing properly is rediculous. Breed a more stable dog and socialization is easy, just have fun with your dog.
I don't think so. It sort of brings up the nuture vs nature debate. Could a perfectly bred dog that's never seen a car before be ok with one zooming by? As with anything in life there needs to be balance. IMO It isn't 100% nature that determines how anyone, including dogs, are going to turn out. Nurture plays into as well and even the best bred dog will need some socialization. If it was 100% nature then a well bred dog could get over a tramatic experience easily with no long term effects....
 

Doberluv

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#17
Well Maxy, you paraphrased all that very well. Yes, it is interesting that in domestic dogs, that they are neotenic, (an extended juvenile state compared to their wild counter-parts), the window is relatively long lasting...several months, whereas with wolves for example, it is just about 19 days. Wild animals need to get these things "figured out" much quicker or they'll run into false negatives more quickly and die. (being curious about something that turns out to be deadly dangerous..that they should have avoided) Domestication and the unique relationship with humans has caused the dog to be apart from wolves. I wouldn't say that humans created dogs persay, but we most likely had a convergent evolution with them and in more recent times have certainly had our hands in the genetic mixing bowl. But they are still animals and obviously do still have this window.
 
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Yes a perfectly bred do is just fine with traffic going by having never been exposed before. I wouldn't say it's good 2 feet off a nascar track, but walking down a sidewalk, in my experience they're just fine.

I have another dog now that will be 3 in july, and has never seen anything other than her kennel run until I got her 2 months ago. They only issue she had was walking down a dark flight of stairs, that was overcome by tossing a ball. No noise issues, no car issues, no other dog issues, no people issues, no fearful issues.

Sure there was some uncertainty at first with some things, but nothing that would be considered problematic or that a regular everyday person couldn't just walk their dog and play with them and get by in life just fine.

and I never said they don't need any socialization, I said we wouldn't have such a need for it. This dog, just like the one before and the one before that have all been just fine with nothing more than normal human dog interaction like going for a walk. No need for human treat dispensers to get over fear of humans and things like that. There's no need to "set" up a controlled scenerio for every little thing to get these dogs thru, they just do it because they are well bred.
 

Doberluv

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I don't think so. It sort of brings up the nuture vs nature debate. Could a perfectly bred dog that's never seen a car before be ok with one zooming by? As with anything in life there needs to be balance. IMO It isn't 100% nature that determines how anyone, including dogs, are going to turn out. Nurture plays into as well and even the best bred dog will need some socialization. If it was 100% nature then a well bred dog could get over a tramatic experience easily with no long term effects....
Of course. You can take the best bred, best temperamented (from birth) dog and totally screw it up with isolation from humans and other life experiences. All animals need exposure to novel things from a young age. If they don't have it, it is a long and arduous task to over-come the emotional mess that is so likely. Yes, it can be done and some come out quite successfully. But looking at millions and millions of puppies, it is demonstrated that early socialization before about 3-5 months is hugely significant. I'm sure there are those exceptions that defy the odds and reasoning. Of course. But why would anyone take that risk with a puppy? You can also take a poorly temperamented puppy and compensate for a lot of it's poor genes by careful socialization and husbandry. It may not ever be as stable as a dog with better nerves in the first place, but the right person can make a lot of difference.

Did anyone watch that show about the human children who were raised alone with little and in some cases no human contact? They're a total mess and can not learn language if they didn't before age 2. None of those children shown on the program ever became well adjusted to novel things. It is again that same phenomenon....social isolation as youngsters from an environment that they are to live in, in the future raises the probability greatly that the child will not adjust well at all, if at all.
 

Nechochwen

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I just hope people don't read this and think that slacking on socialization with their new puppy is no big deal...that it doesn't matter about that finite window of time.
I hope so, too. I think Renee's trying to point out that it's not the end of the world for rescues who weren't socialized, either.
 

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