Weave poles problem
- Thread starter scotty_my_puppy
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I would set up the obstacle so she can't fail (using the gates that jenn mentioned) and then use a super-high value treat to lure him through--rare steak works pretty well. 
Then just make it seem like these poles are the MOST EXCITING thing in the whole wide world! You may lose your voice from talking so much but saying "weave yes good boy come on weave weave weave there you go yay good boy!" all the way through the set in a super-energetic voice really does help.
He may also be burned out on them. Does he have a favorite obstacle? If so, make that the next one after the weave poles; he'll get through them faster because not only does he get a bit of steak at the end, he gets to do his favorite thing as well.
Then just make it seem like these poles are the MOST EXCITING thing in the whole wide world! You may lose your voice from talking so much but saying "weave yes good boy come on weave weave weave there you go yay good boy!" all the way through the set in a super-energetic voice really does help.
He may also be burned out on them. Does he have a favorite obstacle? If so, make that the next one after the weave poles; he'll get through them faster because not only does he get a bit of steak at the end, he gets to do his favorite thing as well.
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Like others have said, it may be that your dog needs to have something (a reward) to focus on at the end of the weave poles. It's kind of hard at times if you're training on your own.
If you have someone to help you, have them stand at the far end of the weave poles and you hold your dog at the entrance (I'd do this on a short set of weaves initially). Have the other person wave the treat and call to your dog, and let your dog get excited. Then send your dog through the weaves, the person at the end backs up and drops the treat on a target (like a lid from a margarine tub maybe).
Then lots of praise, etc. And plan on doing this frequently. Then add in maybe a jump past the weaves, person and target on the far side of the jump. Or a tunnel after the weaves is good - dogs typically speed up in tunnels too.
If you're training by yourself, you can do a similar type of thing using a tub for your treats (like the margarine tub). Show your dog the treats in the tub, make a big thing about it, place the closed tub at the far end of the weaves, take your dog to the entrance point (still keeping the enthusiasm up) and send your dog through. You'll need to run to the tub and open it for the treat, of course! Even if your dog goes slowly initially I'd still give the treat so that he starts to anticipate. Then when he finally is going faster, you can add the second obstacle past it with the treat tub after the second obstacle.
Make sure your dog understands the weaves. A dog who is uncertain with what they're doing will likely go slowly too. If you're using channel style, open the channel a bit so there is a more obvious path - or if you're using weave-a-matics, tilt them a bit. Make it easy for your dog as you work on speed.
Good luck!
Melanie and the gang in Alaska
If you have someone to help you, have them stand at the far end of the weave poles and you hold your dog at the entrance (I'd do this on a short set of weaves initially). Have the other person wave the treat and call to your dog, and let your dog get excited. Then send your dog through the weaves, the person at the end backs up and drops the treat on a target (like a lid from a margarine tub maybe).
Then lots of praise, etc. And plan on doing this frequently. Then add in maybe a jump past the weaves, person and target on the far side of the jump. Or a tunnel after the weaves is good - dogs typically speed up in tunnels too.
If you're training by yourself, you can do a similar type of thing using a tub for your treats (like the margarine tub). Show your dog the treats in the tub, make a big thing about it, place the closed tub at the far end of the weaves, take your dog to the entrance point (still keeping the enthusiasm up) and send your dog through. You'll need to run to the tub and open it for the treat, of course! Even if your dog goes slowly initially I'd still give the treat so that he starts to anticipate. Then when he finally is going faster, you can add the second obstacle past it with the treat tub after the second obstacle.
Make sure your dog understands the weaves. A dog who is uncertain with what they're doing will likely go slowly too. If you're using channel style, open the channel a bit so there is a more obvious path - or if you're using weave-a-matics, tilt them a bit. Make it easy for your dog as you work on speed.
Good luck!
Melanie and the gang in Alaska
Along with what method you used to teach the weaves, how long have you been training, what age is the dog, have you had the dog since he was a puppy, how many poles are you expecting him to weave? What are you doing while he is in the poles? Uhh, if i think of anymore I will let you know.. but when i get a better idea I will probably be able to help.
I'll try to answer as many of those questions as I can. I trained him the same way I trained my chapmion border collie who unfortuantely broke his leg before the AKC Agility. Anyway, I havd that Border Collie since he was a pup, but I got Rolly from a rescue shelter when he was about 1 or two years old. He is now about 4. I have him weave from 4-6 poles. While he is weaving I am usually trying to tempt him with a treat to get him to go faster.
T
What breed is Rolly?
I suggest slanted poles or channels. Guide wires are optional, I just prefer not to use them. I like the dog to think on its own, and seeing as most of my dogs are extremely soft, so corrections during agility is a big no-no. Even for not so soft dogs, I really don't recommend corrections. And for some dogs, the guide wires(if they pop out early) can be a pretty harsh correction.
I personally had great success with the slanted poles.
I suggest slanted poles or channels. Guide wires are optional, I just prefer not to use them. I like the dog to think on its own, and seeing as most of my dogs are extremely soft, so corrections during agility is a big no-no. Even for not so soft dogs, I really don't recommend corrections. And for some dogs, the guide wires(if they pop out early) can be a pretty harsh correction.
I personally had great success with the slanted poles.