I have started walking buddy, I use a gentle walker with him. He's at the point where he doesn't mind the collar. He gets excited when I take him for walks, I make him sit before I put the collar on, and stay until I'm out the door then he follows. He does pretty well for just starting. One issue is he wines almost the whole walk, I can tell he wants to run off but with the leader on he doesn't. Is there a way to calm him down so hes less anxious while walking. Also he does pretty well when passing people or other dogs but now and again he will get real excited, I correct him but to no avail. He will just keep goin on trying to get away, I make sure to keep walking and and I try to correct him but he won't stop till we get past. When it comes to praising for doing good, I will treat or praise him when we pass someone of a dog, but do not if he acts up is this correct.
walking issues
- Thread starter cowboy147
- Start date
Im not sure what the gentle walker is, but if it is any type of head halter please do not correct your dog with it on. I'm surprised that I never see any warnings on the packages but you can do alot of serious damage to the neck/ spine by jerking around their head with it on.
Either way I wouldnt recommend correcting him when he pulls to see other dog's/ people. As you've already noticed it's not working very well and inadvertingtly you will start to change his mind about people/ dogs on walks.
While you see it is as:
People appear- dog pulls- correct dog to make him stop pulling
Your dog will start to associate:
People appear-pain begins
We know through studies conducted that this type of classical conditioning can change emotional responses to certain stimuli (in this case people/ dogs who appear on walks).
You mentioned you are beginning clicker training with your buddy. I know you mentioned problems with him being startled by the clicker sound so whether you decide to use a whistle or a verbal marker do know that you can use this type of training to help your buddy remain calm in these situations.
Some things to try when people are not around:
-Ask your buddy to sit, mark and reward
-Ask your buddy for attention, mark and reward
-Ask your buddy to touch your hand, mark and reward
These become little tools you can ask for when other dog's/ people appear on walks.
However, for me personally I find that the "Look at that game" from Control Unleashed (A book written by Leslie McDevit).
To play the look at that game mark your pup the second he/she notices people have appeared.
This will only work if the people are not invading your pup's comfort zone. If they are too close he/she will become overaroused and no longer be in a state calm enough to learn anything.
This game can be played in combination with asking your dog to preform some of his loose leash walking tools. I have used it with phenominal results the theory behind the game is that if we could break down, piece-by-piece, the cycle which occurs when a dog sees another person or dog on a walk, it would look something like this:
Look-Stare-Bark-Pull
By marking our dogs at look we interupt this cycle. Of course this only works with a dog that understand the marker signal is a promise of good things to come. It sounds like you are already understand how to condition a marker signal, but you may need to try something other than a clicker if the sound scares your dog.
Keep us posted
Kayla
Either way I wouldnt recommend correcting him when he pulls to see other dog's/ people. As you've already noticed it's not working very well and inadvertingtly you will start to change his mind about people/ dogs on walks.
While you see it is as:
People appear- dog pulls- correct dog to make him stop pulling
Your dog will start to associate:
People appear-pain begins
We know through studies conducted that this type of classical conditioning can change emotional responses to certain stimuli (in this case people/ dogs who appear on walks).
You mentioned you are beginning clicker training with your buddy. I know you mentioned problems with him being startled by the clicker sound so whether you decide to use a whistle or a verbal marker do know that you can use this type of training to help your buddy remain calm in these situations.
Some things to try when people are not around:
-Ask your buddy to sit, mark and reward
-Ask your buddy for attention, mark and reward
-Ask your buddy to touch your hand, mark and reward
These become little tools you can ask for when other dog's/ people appear on walks.
However, for me personally I find that the "Look at that game" from Control Unleashed (A book written by Leslie McDevit).
To play the look at that game mark your pup the second he/she notices people have appeared.
This will only work if the people are not invading your pup's comfort zone. If they are too close he/she will become overaroused and no longer be in a state calm enough to learn anything.
This game can be played in combination with asking your dog to preform some of his loose leash walking tools. I have used it with phenominal results the theory behind the game is that if we could break down, piece-by-piece, the cycle which occurs when a dog sees another person or dog on a walk, it would look something like this:
Look-Stare-Bark-Pull
By marking our dogs at look we interupt this cycle. Of course this only works with a dog that understand the marker signal is a promise of good things to come. It sounds like you are already understand how to condition a marker signal, but you may need to try something other than a clicker if the sound scares your dog.
Keep us posted
Kayla