Shadow even though she is only 16 pounds is constantly dragging me around with the leash.She is a tank. I've tried lots of things with her. Using treats to get her to walk beside me. Using a Halti. The way Cesar does it, holding her near your side-this way works and she seems to be geetting the hang of it but I don't think she enjoys it. With her, her nose is constantly pressed against the ground finding new smells ect. She gets to go of leash when were in the feilds, which are right near my house..but I also try to work on her leash training. Im using a flat collar,a harness doesn't work any better. Is there any other way I could stop her pulling?I'm really determined to stop it.
Shadow's Leash Pulling
- Thread starter Vivien
- Start date
I know that caesar uses a show style lead in order to keep their heads up high and not sniffing the ground. I try to keep the leash shorter but not tight and change directions a lot then treat when my dogs are right next to me, paying attention to me. It's hard, I haven't had any great success with any of the methods I've tried, but I would just keep at it, be really patient and use lots of positive reinforcement.
Here's what I've been doing with dogs, and have had success with all of them so far. Basically a no-brainer easy techniques, but it requires some time ( as all things 
)
The main principle: Dog pulls, you change direction and go in opposite direction.
Do that everytime dog pulls, and in a few days-weeks ( depending on dog) your dog will stop pulling. Works on idea, that if a dog pulls, he doesnt get to where he wanted to pull in first place.
The secondary principle:
Teach your dog "slow down" command. Basically start jogging at bit faster then walking pace, then say "slow down" or something to that effect, and slowly reduce your speed to walking speed. ( Even if dogs keep pulling, do it)
This will come in handy, if the dog is pulling hard, just tell him to slow down. He'll have to reduce his speed like he's trained to and in effect reduce the pull.
This might take from couple of weeks to couple of months to perfect.
Third Principle: Teach him to heel! This works great, since when dog is walking by your side, he doesnt pull, and keeps your pace. There are bunch of methods of teaching dog how to heel, im not gonna go in depth here.
Obviously, praise him when he's going slowly by your side.
Basically between those three methods, i've never had a dog who didnt stop pulling after a little bit of training.
Hope that helps
)The main principle: Dog pulls, you change direction and go in opposite direction.
Do that everytime dog pulls, and in a few days-weeks ( depending on dog) your dog will stop pulling. Works on idea, that if a dog pulls, he doesnt get to where he wanted to pull in first place.
The secondary principle:
Teach your dog "slow down" command. Basically start jogging at bit faster then walking pace, then say "slow down" or something to that effect, and slowly reduce your speed to walking speed. ( Even if dogs keep pulling, do it)
This will come in handy, if the dog is pulling hard, just tell him to slow down. He'll have to reduce his speed like he's trained to and in effect reduce the pull.
This might take from couple of weeks to couple of months to perfect.
Third Principle: Teach him to heel! This works great, since when dog is walking by your side, he doesnt pull, and keeps your pace. There are bunch of methods of teaching dog how to heel, im not gonna go in depth here.
Obviously, praise him when he's going slowly by your side.
Basically between those three methods, i've never had a dog who didnt stop pulling after a little bit of training.
Hope that helps
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Sorry krisykris, but I have to say that the reason that Cesar uses a choke method is that he doesn't know how to "teach" so he falls back on painful control. This is not only not necessary, but down right dangerous for your little dogs, although I wouldn't even risk it with a large breed.
With the placement of the choke so high (in what Cesar calls the show style ) you risk trachael damage as well as spinal and occular injury, particularly with the quick directional changes required using the method that you described.
The method of changing directions is great, even the use of the "be a tree" method (stop when ever the leash is tight) will work with consistency but shoud NEVER be done using a choke devise...chain or otherwise.
The leash should remain loose if you're to use this method correctly in which case the 'close line' effect is almost inevidible.
Personally, I like to teach the dog positioning BEFORE we head out doors. I do this using a BY ME command with a periodic lure indoors without the leash and with no distraction. Once the dog understands positioning, we start adding directional changes, (still using the BY ME command and periodic lure), again indoors without a leash..which is actually considered the first level of distraction. When that is successful, I very slowly introduce small levels of distraction (leash first) and take this method into different environments such as different rooms, backyard, quiet streets and then parks with more distraction.
This method, if done correctly and with patience, works beautifully without ever needing to add aversive control tools.
With the placement of the choke so high (in what Cesar calls the show style
) you risk trachael damage as well as spinal and occular injury, particularly with the quick directional changes required using the method that you described.The method of changing directions is great, even the use of the "be a tree" method (stop when ever the leash is tight) will work with consistency but shoud NEVER be done using a choke devise...chain or otherwise.
The leash should remain loose if you're to use this method correctly in which case the 'close line' effect is almost inevidible.
Personally, I like to teach the dog positioning BEFORE we head out doors. I do this using a BY ME command with a periodic lure indoors without the leash and with no distraction. Once the dog understands positioning, we start adding directional changes, (still using the BY ME command and periodic lure), again indoors without a leash..which is actually considered the first level of distraction. When that is successful, I very slowly introduce small levels of distraction (leash first) and take this method into different environments such as different rooms, backyard, quiet streets and then parks with more distraction.
This method, if done correctly and with patience, works beautifully without ever needing to add aversive control tools.