Puppy aggression.

fish

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Hi all,

This is my first time posting, so if you can think of any other valuable resources that I may want to look at, please do not hesitate to recommend them.

Some background: My girlfriend and I picked up a male Anatolian Shephard pup. The pup, Haiku, is now 6 months old and is exhibiting a particular aggressive behaviour that worries me quite a bit. My girlfriend has done extremely well in training him and I think, for the most part, the he is doing very well and is well behaved for his age. We have previously lived in different cities and I have not been able to partake in the process.

The aggressive behaviour is very restricted to one thing: removing tasty, but not-to-be-consumed items from his mouth. Sometimes, the dog will pick up something that he values quite a bit. The typical commands for him to lay down and drop the item do not work for these high value items - typically smelly socks!! With the high value items, we tend to grab him by the collar and hold him until he drops the item. But, if he doesn't let go and continues trying to swallow the item, requiring us to extract it from his mouth, he becomes very aggressive and nasty with us. Needless to say, this is unacceptable, and is compounded by the fact he is already big, and will only become bigger.

During play, Haiku is quite bitey, and we have come to the conclusion that we need to address this as well by immediately quiting playing with him as soon as he makes the first playful bite. I am not nearly as concerned about this, but I think they are interconnected behaviours. The play biting is just that, but he sometimes does play snap at inappropriate places, like our faces for example. So, we are starting to tackle this too and realizing that he may just not be the type of dog we can play with in this manner. I am confident that we can accomplish this.

So - it is the aggression that we are concerned about - taking stuff away from him, items he is unwilling to drop. He does get very nasty and is already capable of causing harm. Naturally, we are very concerned.

First of all, has anyone else dealt with a similar type of aggression? Is there any advice out there for dealing with such an issue?

At first, about 3 months ago, when he started doing this, we would address it by grabbing him firmly by the cheeks and staring him down and holding him until he calmed down, which often took quite some time and arm cuts. (Note, this was recommended by a trainer). Realizing this was not working and didn't give us a free hand to extract items from his mouth, we now ask him to drop the item. If he does not, we grab him by the collar and ask him again. If he still does not drop , we begin twisting the collar. It is not until we are forced to take it from him, that he gets really nasty. Upon getting nasty, we essentialy toss him on his back and demonstrate our dominance and hold him down until he settles, but it takes a while and he is aggressive throughout the encounter. Usually this happens on walks, where throwing him into a crate as punishment is not immediately possible.

So, this is not acceptable. As his owners, we can deal with it when it happens, although very unhappily. However, it can never happen to someone else obviously, so I am very worried that we won't be able to extinguish this behaviour.

Any advice is valuable! I am sure some of you may critique what we are doing, but most of the responses are suggestions from trainers, all of whom, as you know, use different approaches to training. This is our first dog as a couple, but we both grew up with dogs, so we are not complete beginners.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to help out! We are at a loss of what to do! Do we fight aggression with aggression or will it only escalate? Is a dog that is this dominant capable of become submissive under aggressive retaliation or force? My girlfriend's opinion is that we should never do that and all training and obedience should be possible with positive reinforcment. I am no longer convinced.

Cheers and thanks!
 

bridey_01

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#2
God, i would like to meet the trainer that told you all that! Holding him down to demonstrate dominance? Tossing him on his back and twisting his collar, i don't even want to know what arm cuts are!
Look, the word dominance is hugely over used in the training community, issue's are very rarely related to "dominance". Your dog isn't being dominant when he holds onto the sock, he's just holding onto something he thinks is great, not trying tu ursurp your leadership. When an owner uses these very "in your face" dominance tactics, the dog learns "well, in this pack we solve our problems with aggression". Your girlfriend is right. It will definetly escalate if you continue in this practice. Plus your dog will start to dislike you. Dogs respect and owner that uses their intellect, not their superior weight or height.
 

Purr

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#3
Your trainer sounds a bit....uneducated. Sorry, I don't know what to tell you, because I started when my pups were little; taking things from them, and giving them back. I can take anything from my dogs now, without a problem.

Twisting his collar and choking him, and throwing him on his back is going to make him more aggressive.
 
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Bridey, you're going to fit in so well here!

I'm going to suggest you forget everything that you've been doing. Much of this is helping to create the problems you're having right now, and you're right; they're only going to get worse if you keep doing things like this.

You've owned other dogs before, but a herding molosser breed is a vastly different matter than a Lab, a Border Collie, Doberman . . . you get the idea. These dogs have many centuries of breeding enabling them to think and make decisions independently as necessary to do their jobs. These dogs have no respect for bullies. Understanding what makes your dog tick is the first step.

Start back at the beginning - with sit, down and the basics, but reinforce that it is a fun, interactive learning time. When you've gone back over those things, giving treats and lavish praise, then start practicing drop it, or give, or whatever words you want to use. I'd strongly suggest switching to another phrase or word that is different from the one you've been using. That command has too many negative connotations in your dog's mind. Practice having your pup give you things, then examine them, and give them back. You'll have to supply the objects so that you'll have something you can return to your pup at first. Little by little, start taking things and not returning them. Praise your pup, give a treat if you want. He'll catch on.

These dogs can be almost frighteningly intelligent. You have to deal with them accordingly. Don't expect them to act without reason, but if you'll give them a good reason they'll surprise you. If you try to bully them they'll eventually make you very sorry, whether it's just by being a complete brat, destroying things they know are important to you, or turning the tables on you. They are wonderful, marvelous, loyal and loving companions - but you've got to treat them with love and respect.

CreatureTeacher and Doberluv will have some good advice for you. I love what CreatureTeacher says about trainers: "Don't pay someone to do to your dog what you'd prosecute them for doing to your child."
 

opokki

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Agree with what the others have said. Using force like this just gives him all the more reason to be over protective of the item he is trying not to lose.

For now, try your best to keep all high value items (such as smelly socks) out of his reach. Start practicing object exchanges several times a day throughout the day but only use low value items in the begining, very gradually working your way up to higher value items. If you are worried about him giving up the item do not let go of it. Hold it and allow him to lick it, nipple it and then take it back...give a special treat to reinforce him giving up the item and then give it back to him and leave him be. Be sure to keep your voice cheerful and non-threatening each time you are practicing and avoid staring him down.
 

Fran27

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#7
I have exactly the same issue with my 6 month old puppy. We tried all the training we could, it works fine with his favorite toy, but not at all with what he steals. Typically, stinky socks or sponges from the sink (even full of dishsoap.. yuck).

It was making me mad too, but now we can mostly manage to fix the situation. I have no doubt that he will never stop stealing them when he can, so we try our best to leave everything out of his reach. Then, when he gets something (which still happened twice today :rolleyes: ), we just trade with something he *really* wants. Boris loves peanut butter, and between a treat covered in peanut butter and the stinky sock, he won't hesitate. If he takes too long, I just rub the treat on his nose and he will have to lick it :D With a bit of luck it will work with one of his favorite toys, it just doesn't with Boris.

I guess that the funny thing is that he knows perfectly that he's not supposed to grab them, because he goes and hides under the stairs. I just don't think it's possible to really teach them not to steal.
 

fish

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Puppy aggression... more info.

Thank you very much for the constructive advice. We know that the advice the trainers gave us is ineffective, that's why I am here asking these questions.

Some of the advice provided sounds great. We will try that: Always having in our possession something that he values above most-else, something super yummy for him. Obviously he loves treats, but maybe we need to find a particular treat that he really loves above the rest. Then try the trade... then slowly ween off the trade.

Sounds like a solid plan.

However, in the interim... don't you think that he needs to know that his aggression is a bad thing and is unacceptable? That is where my lack of understanding of the whole positive-reinforcement comes into play (yes... I am trying to forget the old-school tactics that used to be used, and accepted). I am dubious that just avoiding those confrontations will extinguish that behaviour. The potential for aggression will still be there in him? I guess all dogs have that potential right since they are wild animals? He just seems to be willing to use that aggression with us once in a while and obviously the last thing we want is for him to ever use this on a stranger or child. I feel he needs to know, somehow, that it is unacceptable?

What do you think of this idea: Maybe we should intentionally leave the odd smelly sock in the backyard while we are there and with him and go through the process, starting with the usual commands of "down" or "sit" and "drop", then working with a trade to a higher value object. If he demonstrates the aggression, at least we are at home and can immediately put him in his crate until he settles. I think the sit/stay commands need to be honed, since the last time he tried to swallow a sock, it started with him running circles around us and not listening to the commands.

I haven't yet discussed these with my girlfriend yet, so she may say that I am out-to-lunch with my ideas, but I am just trying to throw them out there for feedback. One of the posters is correct, both our earlier dogs that we grew up with were very different breeds - black lab mix and daschunds.

Thanks again! Keep the ideas coming... I have a lot to learn and welcome all the comments.
 
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fish

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Arm cuts! Clarification.

Sorry about the confusion on that! When I mentioned arm cuts - I meant that was what we got in return from his teeth! That must've sounded wierd - sorry!
 
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#10
Hi Fish

Sorry about the problems with your pup. You need to erase the slate and start over. That trainer didn't do you any favors. I'd try to redirect him by offering something that he would desire more.... a yummy treat a favorite toy what ever gets his attention away from the object of his desire. You could also start teaching him "leave it" and follow up with the good stuff again when he drops the object for what you have for him. Soon he will leave what you don't want him to have and look to you for that good stuff he knows is coming. I had those little smelly cat treats in my pocket all the time when I was training Magic. Do you practice NILIF with him, if not start now. Make him work for you by having him do something for everything you do for him, he is to sit, lie down, speak (anything) before you do anything for him. I mean anything play, food, water, potty time, anything. He will learn that you are in control and he's not, and this will help you with your training.

With his aggression when he bites let out a loud "yipe" much like a puppy would if he got hurt and discontinue contact or play for at least 10 minutes. This will teach him bite inhibitions and that if he gets too rough he won't be able to play anymore. It'll take time but he'll catch on.
 

fish

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Yes - my girlfriend is very adamant about not letting him do anything without "earning" it. Pardon my ignorance, but what does NILIF stand for? We are doing that by the sounds of it.

For the most part, his "drop" command response is decent - but only for lesser value items like shoes and stuff, things he really can't ingest. It seems to be mostly socks and sometimes underwear that he craves and then he is unwilling. I guess we need to clean up our pigsty of a house ;) (Just kidding, MOST of these things he is finding outside during walks or playtime). I think unknowingly, we perhaps do something very different when we realize it is something he intends to eat. But we sort of have to act different, because it is dangerous for him to swallow them and it is critical that we stop him.
 
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If you MUST use a crate - never use it for punishment. I really don't like to see a large breed or muscular dog being crated for any appreciable length of time. It affects their physical development and you can conceivably end up with musculo-skeletal developmental problems.

Another member came up with an imaginative solution to differentiate unacceptable behaviour for her dog. She has a "naughty leash!" It's only used for when he's done something naughty. The naughty leash goes on and he's banished to his corner. It took a little time for him to understand, but now he knows when the naughty leash comes out that he's done something he's not supposed to do.

Remember, banishment or being ignored is just the WORST thing to a pup!

Teach him that giving you what you ask for gets him something good - you can start with treats if you want, but gradually work him over to looking forward to the reward of praise and affection; resisting means he gets nothing in return except a stern look and being ignored. These dogs really do want to work for you, but you do have to teach them that YOU know best.
 

Athe

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#13
The aggressive behaviour is very restricted to one thing: removing tasty, but not-to-be-consumed items from his mouth. Sometimes, the dog will pick up something that he values quite a bit. The typical commands for him to lay down and drop the item do not work for these high value items - typically smelly socks!! With the high value items, we tend to grab him by the collar and hold him until he drops the item. But, if he doesn't let go and continues trying to swallow the item, requiring us to extract it from his mouth, he becomes very aggressive and nasty with us. Needless to say, this is unacceptable, and is compounded by the fact he is already big, and will only become bigger.
For resouce guarding, what I have done in the past is when the dog has a valuable item, offer him some thing better. Offer the pup a wonderful treat of greater value and take away the sock. Reward. Resource guarding can and will be reinforced the more you take away a valued item with force or a dominant manner on your part. Make sure your puppy has plenty of toys to play with, and pick them up and put them away after you are finished playing.

I would also start teaching your pup "off" and "Take it". I like the command word "off" as it's short and simple. All of my commands I try to keep to one word. To teach this you can take a treat and place in the palm of your hand, hold your hand palm up with the treat sitting there. First have your pup sit in front of you. Hold out your palm and show the treat, when the pup goes to grab it, close your palm and cover the treat up and say "off". Keep doing this until the pup gets bored and looks away. Then hold out your treat in your palm and say "Take it". Keep practising this.
I would also impliment the NIFIL policy. This simply means that any thing the pup wants has to be earned. Feeding time, have your pup sit while you prepare the meal, then keep the pup in a sit until the dish is placed on the floor. Then tell the pup "Take it" or "OK" in a nice cheery voice. If the pup is going outside with you for a walk, have the pup sit until you get out the door then have the pup follow you out. When playing fetch games have the pup "off" the toy (drop it for you), then you toss it encourage the pup to bring the object back, sit, then toss etc.

During play, Haiku is quite bitey, and we have come to the conclusion that we need to address this as well by immediately quiting playing with him as soon as he makes the first playful bite. I am not nearly as concerned about this, but I think they are interconnected behaviours. The play biting is just that, but he sometimes does play snap at inappropriate places, like our faces for example. So, we are starting to tackle this too and realizing that he may just not be the type of dog we can play with in this manner. I am confident that we can accomplish this.
I would not have any play time that envolved any biting on the pups part. No tug of war games (at least until the pup has learned "off" and "take it" properly), do not encourage a pup to nip or bite. Especially a breed such as you have. If the pup gets rowdy and starts biting, yelp loudly as if the pup hurt you a great deal and get up and walk away. Once the pup learns that biting will lead to end of play time and no play mate they will catch on and learn not to bite. With my dogs I never encourage any games that encourage them to bite. I will play fetch a lot, this is a great game for dogs with high prey drive. Always encourage the pup to bring back the fetch item, this will decrease resource guarding and the pup learns that if he brings it back it will mean more play.

So - it is the aggression that we are concerned about - taking stuff away from him, items he is unwilling to drop. He does get very nasty and is already capable of causing harm. Naturally, we are very concerned.
Never place yourself in harms way, always have a wonderful treat better than the item he is guarding, until you have the "off" and "take it" command under control. My fully grown Rottweiler was a terrible resource guarder when I adopted her. I made sure that I made good things happen when she was chewing on bones etc. With my Rottweiler I would give her a raw bone, sit beside her and rub her belly. I couldn't do this when I first adopted her...but, with plenty of positive training and her preferance for belly rubs over objects I was able to over come her guarding behavior. I also would come over to her and give her a raw hamburg ball, take the raw bone she was chewing on, look at it and give it back to her by saying take it. She learned that just because I took it doesnt mean I wasn't going to give it back. Now any one can take a raw meaty bone out of her mouth and all 5 of my dogs can lay side by side and chew bones with no issues. It's wonderful to see.

At first, about 3 months ago, when he started doing this, we would address it by grabbing him firmly by the cheeks and staring him down and holding him until he calmed down, which often took quite some time and arm cuts. (Note, this was recommended by a trainer). Realizing this was not working and didn't give us a free hand to extract items from his mouth, we now ask him to drop the item. If he does not, we grab him by the collar and ask him again. If he still does not drop , we begin twisting the collar. It is not until we are forced to take it from him, that he gets really nasty. Upon getting nasty, we essentialy toss him on his back and demonstrate our dominance and hold him down until he settles, but it takes a while and he is aggressive throughout the encounter. Usually this happens on walks, where throwing him into a crate as punishment is not immediately possible.
Boy, I would get aggressive too :D I never recommend using such harsh training methods. A dog learns with positive training and learns to avoid or become defensive or offensive with harsh training. If you had a chocolate sunday and I came over and grabbed it away from you and pulled your hair while I was removing it, you would be first shocked, then fearful, then probably would fight back...don't expect any better from your dog. ;)
If I offered you $5.00 for your Sunday then you would be more apt to respect me and hand it over. To use such negetive training techniques you may be creating a fear biter and a dog which will resource guard even more. You teach your dog how to behave, don't force them. :p

So, this is not acceptable. As his owners, we can deal with it when it happens, although very unhappily. However, it can never happen to someone else obviously, so I am very worried that we won't be able to extinguish this behaviour.
You certainly can over come this, your pup is still young. Throw out all the negetive training advise you have received. Teach your pup by luring first with wonderful treats then teach the dog that by giving up one thing they can earn some thing better.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to help out! We are at a loss of what to do! Do we fight aggression with aggression or will it only escalate?
Yes, aggression begot aggression. You will be amazed at the difference in your pup when you use positive training methods. It worked for my Rottweiler (and she was a very aggressive, dominant dog when I took her in, she also attacked me within the first week I had her due to prey drive). It took time and lots of patience on my part.

Is a dog that is this dominant capable of become submissive under aggressive retaliation or force? My girlfriend's opinion is that we should never do that and all training and obedience should be possible with positive reinforcment. I am no longer convinced.
Yes, please use positive training. Another great thing is to use belly rubs to teach the pup to calm down while laying in front of you. I found my Rottie perfers a belly rub over a treat, this has also taught her to be a little more submissive and that good things will happen to her when I'm around. The things we expect of our dogs is not normal doggy behavior, you need to think about how the dog is viewing you when you become aggressive, what are you teaching the dog but aggression. In the dogs mind you become unpredictable and scary, fear and aggression will be reinforced with negetive training techniques. I would also find a good animal behaviorist who practices positive training methods ONLY. When out on a walk with your pup, always keep good treats and lure the pup away from items you don't want the pup to pick up. If the pup does pick some thing up give him the off command and give him a treat for being such a good pup. ;)

Good luck, Just to add, that you will probably get better advise than what I have givenyou. The above is what worked for me and my many dogs.

I also highly recommend you pick up the book called: MINE by Jean Donaldson, it's a wonderful book and very helpful. Here is a link of how to order this book.
http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DTB740
 
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bridey_01

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Some people insist that pups should not be allowed to bite, as they will learn to bite in the future. This is incorrect. You simply must let your pup mouth on you to teach him the most critical lesson he will ever learn, bite inhibition. As pups mouth, either other pups or their owners, they learn what pressure is acceptable and what is far too hard. Puppies learn this from each other ie "if i bite my sis too hard she squeels and stops playing, maybe i should be more gentle". Dogs that have bite inhibtion are much more reliable. Take this example.
a lab pup was smacked every time he even put his mouth onto a humans skin, as his owner thought this would teach him to never bite.
A german shepherd pup was allowed to chew and playfight his owner, unless he bit too hard, at which point playtime ended.
The German shepherd was stepped on accidentally by a large man as he was sleeping beside the couch. The sheperd lunged and caught the man on the wrist, then immediatly let go. Upon examination not one tooth had entered, as the dogs bite inhibtion kicked in from his puppy hood lessons.
The lab, however, not only lunged but inflicted deep wounds that required stitches.
This is the difference in a pup with not BH.
 

bridey_01

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Oh, and thanks Renee. By the way, what exactly is a Fila? I don't think i've ever trained one, what do they look like?
 
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You can't 'train' a Fila, lol! You and the Fila learn to speak each others' language. You won't see Filas in obedience trials ROFL!

They are a South American strain of Mastiff that is native to Brazil - you'll sometimes see them called Brazilian Mastiffs or Cao de Brasil. The breed goes back into the 16th or 17th century, as near as anyone can tell, and it is a cattle dog, a guardian, a hunter (used to hunt jaguar and wild boar), and a tracking dog.

Here's a link to a post from awhile back: http://www.chazhound.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5105&postcount=4

And the best information site I know of, especially having met the woman who compiled it and getting the benefit of her first-hand knowledge. She's even spent quite a bit of time in Brazil searching for viable bloodlines and talking to some of the people intimately involved in conservation of the Fila: http://www.mindspring.com/~anableps/fila.html

There is an old proverb in Brazil: "Faithful as a Fila." Very true.

There are pictures of my grrrrls - and little Bimmer, who keeps order, in my gallery on the pictures pages.
 

Athe

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#17
I just wanted to add as well that most dogs that resource guard is due to a dog being more confused than dominance. You have to teach your pup to trust you, and to learn to trust you, you have to teach the pup that you may take some thing away, but, some times he will get it back...some times he won't. Right now, your pup thinks of you as being unpredictable, be consistent and try to pick up some good behavior books by Jean Donaldson and also Dr. Ian Dunbar, I love their books.
bridey_01
As for bite inhibition, pups should have learned this before the age of 4 months from litter mates. Some trainers make jokes saying this is why puppy teeth are so sharp, they learn by playing with littermates how hard they can bite when playing. For myself, I always taught my dogs not to put their teeth on a human even when playing. Perhaps I am wrong doing this, but, it has been working well for me for the past 40 years. If I stepped on my Rottie by mistake (which I have, and I am not a small person :D ) she does not turn around and snap or show teeth she will yelp and get up and sook for attention (my dogs know that if they are in pain or had a boo boo they get extra sooky attention and belly rubs). I also find it is really handy when going to the Vet, the Vets love all my dogs as you can do any thing to them without having to put them under. They understand that no matter the pain, never put teeth on human skin. I had an abcess removed from one of my dogs mouth without being put under sedation, and she had the inside of her mouth stitched. She is an old girl and the Vet didn't want to risk putting her under. I also had to remove porcupine quills from my Rottie's mouth and face, she layed there relaxed while I removed them. The vets know my dogs well and know how good they are and my dogs trust me. I did all this training with only using positive training, and I adopted all my dogs as adults and 3 of them had major issues, especially my Rottweiler and my Doberman.
Any how, the training I did worked for me. I do not play any mouthy games with my dogs until they learn off and take it. If I happen to play tug of war (I never let my dogs mouth me...ever) I never let my dogs win, when I am tired of playing I tell them "off" then put the toy away. My dogs have fun, but there are always my rules to follow.
 

bridey_01

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#18
Sounds like your dogs got some good bite inhibition while they were young. Pups do learn a majority of their BH through littermates, but i believe this learning should continue right up until six months (hell, i still wrestle with my kelpie, it's good practice, she looks and sounds like she's killing me but my clothes don't even have an indent.) She gets constant feedback on what is acceptable and what isn't. But i have had to do this with my kelpie as she was taken away from her littermates at four weeks and physical abused till she was about a year old. She definetly needs the lessons!
 

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bridey_01, it's always good to have different training methods. I guess what worked for my dogs may not work for other dogs. Thank you for explaining. ;)
 

fish

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History

Just some clarification on Haiku...

He was taken from his litter when he was six weeks. So, a little premature admittedly and he maybe has not developed that biting threshold thing. I love to rough-house with him, but we both realize that maybe this is not a good thing. I don't know if anyone can say if the bitey-ness during play (non-aggressive, but scratchey due to his youthful playfulness and clutzyness.) and the aggression I spoke about, are truly related. However, he has to learn that no biting is acceptable, so unfortunately, as much as I love to roll around with the little feller, I think we are going to have to make it obvious during play that when he bites, it's game over. He has an adorable little bark and howl when you try to calm him down that just ropes me back in to rough-housing more.

Another thing... we are in touch with owners of two of his siblings. They both have been given access to limitless food. Neither of them seems to be terribly keen on chewing or eating anything remotely inapproriate. We wonder if there is a connection - maybe the big feller is hungry. We have chosen to NOT use this method of feeding but giving him the proper number of feedings and portion sizes everyday - ALL "professionals" and books we have read suggest that what we are doing is correct. But given that the siblings do not have similar issues, we wonder if the two are related.

Thanks for all your help everyone. We are going to try a few of these things with him over the next couple of months and see how it works. I certainly will provide feedback as we go through the process.

Thanks again!
 

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