Protection training.
- Thread starter blackcat
- Start date
Yes you can still take it to those places, however your responsibility is upped also. You are now posessing a dog with the ability to cause a very significant amount of damage. Much like karate, it is there to know, but hopefully never having to use it. Karate can be considered a deadly weapon, so can a dog. The responsibilities should be obvious
Dogs with stable temperaments before protection work starts can do it all.
I have a dog that passed a CGC TDI( 1st for the breed) Atts TT, DID Civil agiation + bite work- &X Show Champion and goes to Schools to demos.
By doing the Protection work I can control the dog more in defense then if I would have to GUESS what he would do in a real situtation .
I know once the bad guy backs off and leaves me alone he turns OFF.
I did not know that untill I did the training.
Mind you my breed naturally protects I just needed to get a understanding of what it would take to turn them OFF vs ON.
Best of luck with the work.
I have a dog that passed a CGC TDI( 1st for the breed) Atts TT, DID Civil agiation + bite work- &X Show Champion and goes to Schools to demos.
By doing the Protection work I can control the dog more in defense then if I would have to GUESS what he would do in a real situtation .
I know once the bad guy backs off and leaves me alone he turns OFF.
I did not know that untill I did the training.
Mind you my breed naturally protects I just needed to get a understanding of what it would take to turn them OFF vs ON.
Best of luck with the work.
If you have a well-trained protection dog, none of that should be a worry. A good protection dog should be absolutely comfortable in public situations, and can easily distinguish between a threat and a friend. A well-trained protection dog will also be very attentive to the handler: basically, you will be in full control of the dog. That's absolutely important for a dog that has been trained to protect.
If you choose to have a protection-trained dog, BE CAREFUL OF THE TRAINER YOU USE! I can't stress this enough. There are so-called "trainers" out there who basically turn the dogs into super-aggressive, frenzied creatures and call them trained. That is absolutely not true. You want a trainer who can demonstrate that the dog can easily distinguish between friend and foe, only react if necessary, and will listen to the handler. Also, some trainers use extremely harsh methods to train the dogs. Avoid them.
Be aware that few dogs are actually capable of learning protection work. A dog like that requires high drive, protective instincts, obedience, confidence and more....most protection dogs are bred for their traits over the course of generations, and come from specialized breeders. And breed alone doesn't cut it: just because you have a German Shepherd dog doesn't mean he can learn protection. The average pet dog usually isn't capable of advanced protection training. That's not to say that your dog isn't, but don't get your hopes up until you have your pup evaluated by an experienced trainer.
Good luck!
If you choose to have a protection-trained dog, BE CAREFUL OF THE TRAINER YOU USE! I can't stress this enough. There are so-called "trainers" out there who basically turn the dogs into super-aggressive, frenzied creatures and call them trained. That is absolutely not true. You want a trainer who can demonstrate that the dog can easily distinguish between friend and foe, only react if necessary, and will listen to the handler. Also, some trainers use extremely harsh methods to train the dogs. Avoid them.
Be aware that few dogs are actually capable of learning protection work. A dog like that requires high drive, protective instincts, obedience, confidence and more....most protection dogs are bred for their traits over the course of generations, and come from specialized breeders. And breed alone doesn't cut it: just because you have a German Shepherd dog doesn't mean he can learn protection. The average pet dog usually isn't capable of advanced protection training. That's not to say that your dog isn't, but don't get your hopes up until you have your pup evaluated by an experienced trainer.
Good luck!
What you need to remember is, a dog that is NOT protection trained could be just as much of a risk going hiking, camping or visiting Grandma. Any unstable dog could bite or act out at any time or any place- it's not something that is limited to protection trained dogs. A dog that is trained for protection MUST be of stable temperament first and foremost. A responsible trainer won't allow an unstable dog to got through any kind of protection training.
To me, a well trained dog that has also been trained in protection activities is going to be more reliable. They know when and where to engage a person and won't fly off the handle at the slightest provocation. Again- a stable temperament has to be the 1st consideration before embarking on that kind of training.
To me, a well trained dog that has also been trained in protection activities is going to be more reliable. They know when and where to engage a person and won't fly off the handle at the slightest provocation. Again- a stable temperament has to be the 1st consideration before embarking on that kind of training.
A stable dog who begins protection training with a qualified trainer, finishes the training a stable dog with a much higher degree of control/training. Anything they were able to do before, they can do afterwards. And more.
The challenge is finding the right dog for the training, and the right trainer. To many trainers are willing to work with dogs who should never be protection trained, and to many trainers use methods that should never be used. They aren't training a protection dog, they are creating a junk yard dog.
As the owner of the dog, you also need to ask yourself if you really need a protection trained dog? Many (most) of the time having a dog who will perk up and act alert on command is all someone needs, maybe a dog who barks on command. If you do live/work in a situation where you really need a protection trained dog, you should also be looking into other forms of protection.
This is my "poster child" for protection trained dogs. She's trained/titled in sport work (French Ring), obedience, herding, flyball, weight pull, agility, goes on trail rides with me, hiking, camping, to the dog park, sleeps on the bed at night and can perform as a service dog (don't need one, just trained her for it for fun). She is also fully protection trained and will defend me if needed.
http://www.dantero.com/dogs.php?id=1
The challenge is finding the right dog for the training, and the right trainer. To many trainers are willing to work with dogs who should never be protection trained, and to many trainers use methods that should never be used. They aren't training a protection dog, they are creating a junk yard dog.
As the owner of the dog, you also need to ask yourself if you really need a protection trained dog? Many (most) of the time having a dog who will perk up and act alert on command is all someone needs, maybe a dog who barks on command. If you do live/work in a situation where you really need a protection trained dog, you should also be looking into other forms of protection.
This is my "poster child" for protection trained dogs. She's trained/titled in sport work (French Ring), obedience, herding, flyball, weight pull, agility, goes on trail rides with me, hiking, camping, to the dog park, sleeps on the bed at night and can perform as a service dog (don't need one, just trained her for it for fun). She is also fully protection trained and will defend me if needed.
http://www.dantero.com/dogs.php?id=1
Xerxes, from my understanding its actually kinda both 
You do need to start with a dog that isnt going to fly off the handle when someone looks at him the wrong way and likewise you shouldnt try it with a dog who is going to run away when the decoy throws up his arms and yells but the actual training also furthers that stabilization by showing the dog what exactly a threat is and what to let go boy
You do need to start with a dog that isnt going to fly off the handle when someone looks at him the wrong way and likewise you shouldnt try it with a dog who is going to run away when the decoy throws up his arms and yells but the actual training also furthers that stabilization by showing the dog what exactly a threat is and what to let go boy
Xerxes, from my understanding its actually kinda both You do need to start with a dog that isnt going to fly off the handle when someone looks at him the wrong way and likewise you shouldnt try it with a dog who is going to run away when the decoy throws up his arms and yells but the actual training also furthers that stabilization by showing the dog what exactly a threat is and what to let go boy
You do need to start with a dog that isnt going to fly off the handle when someone looks at him the wrong way and likewise you shouldnt try it with a dog who is going to run away when the decoy throws up his arms and yells but the actual training also furthers that stabilization by showing the dog what exactly a threat is and what to let go boy
Xerxes, from my understanding its actually kinda both You do need to start with a dog that isnt going to fly off the handle when someone looks at him the wrong way and likewise you shouldnt try it with a dog who is going to run away when the decoy throws up his arms and yells but the actual training also furthers that stabilization by showing the dog what exactly a threat is and what to let go boy
You do need to start with a dog that isnt going to fly off the handle when someone looks at him the wrong way and likewise you shouldnt try it with a dog who is going to run away when the decoy throws up his arms and yells but the actual training also furthers that stabilization by showing the dog what exactly a threat is and what to let go boy
Also there should be no verbal communication from the decoy to the dog at all. Any bitework regardless of what kind, is about the knowledge of who, what where and when of the bite. And likewise the who, what, where and when to not.