Corky is a two year old rescue that we got as a foster at Christmastime and are in the process of adopting. He is not reactive with well-mannered dogs or even large barking dogs behind a fence, but small barking dogs and crying babies scare him. I worry that a dog that growls in his face may get pinned. He's pinned my old male Kees twice, but with baby gates, crates and treats I've taught the two of them that being together is tolerable. They can be in the same room or even in the yard together now... but the Kees hasn't growled at Corky again. When Corky is in a situation that scares him, I'm not convinced that he trusts I'm in control and will keep us both safe. He either pulls me closer or away depending on if his reaction is fight or flight. He's a big, strong dog and I'm a small woman with fibromyalgia; its hard on my body to have him yank on me and I'm struggling physically right now. On walks I had been avoiding his triggers because I wasn't sure that I could control Corky, but now that I have a bit more confidence and some ideas (and the sidewalks aren't covered in ice) I'm hoping I can de-sensitize him to the point that he'll ignore bad-mannered dogs when we are out. If he could be off-leash in a field and not respond poorly if surprised by another dog, Iâ€™d be thrilled. This is what I'm experimenting with. I'd appreciate feedback. Umbilical leash. -- I have more strength in my core than in my arms and it hurts less to be tugged on my hips than my shoulders, so I've just started wearing Corky on a leash to train him to walk on a loose leash. The plan is to do this around the house and on walks for about two hours per day in the evenings after work until he looks to me for direction instead of sniffing his way to whatever he wants. - Used to form a solid bond between a dog and a single person - The only times the leash doesn't need to be physically attached to person are in the car, the shower (leash is attached to something next to shower - not door knob 5' away) and in bed (kennel at night) - As the dog learns to look to the person for everything, they will want to work for them - No food is involved because food is a 'replacement' of a bond - Umbilical cording teaches a dog to pay attention to you at all times - Just go about your routine and let the dog know when it's time for a walk, or food etc. - The dog learns to synchronize, especially if you don't give them any commands Anti-pull Harness - when we walk in a park where we are likely to see other dogs, Corky is on a harness to save me from tugs Getting His Attention - I shouldn't give quick tugs on Corky's collar to get his attention because its hard on my body to do so and I can't really jerk quickly enough for it to be effective on him, anyway. I've discovered that raising my voice with a firm "Hey!" or stomping my foot gets his attention and he'll obey my command if I demand it in this way the second time even if somewhat distracted. I'm not clicking. I am treating. How important is it to click? Urban Agility - I'm incorporating neighbourhood "obstacles" like park benches, trees and barricades into our leash walks to make them more physically and mentally challenging for Corky. Play â€“ I have three teenagers and a large back yard. They toss the ball together in the yard to tire him out every day. What do you think?