How do you teach "up"?
- Thread starter Mindy Miller
- Start date
I use "stand". I just used the treat to lure Zoe up and when she stood, said stand and gave her the treat. This is good to learn cuz then they can learn stand stays, which if you were to ever have your dog in the show ring is pretty much what you would use. I dont show my dog, but its good to know anyway.
Sounds like you need to reinforce the "sit" position a bit more. I've found that it's easier for me to teach the dogs to relate "sit" to the actual position (butt on the floor) than the act of sitting down. When they associate 'sit' with that position, they usually will sit from nearly any position, even lying down. If they associate sit with the act of sitting down, they'll usually only sit down when they've been standing.
I use the same commands for every action. If my dog is lying down and I want him to sit, the command is "sit". If he is sitting and I want him to stand, the command is "stand".
I use the same commands for every action. If my dog is lying down and I want him to sit, the command is "sit". If he is sitting and I want him to stand, the command is "stand".
R
In my experience, teaching a dog to sit from stand, and teaching a dog to sit from down, are 2 definitely separate exercises and learning curves.
I teach sit from stand on a verbal command, and mostly sit from down with a hand signal.
In the Utility signal exercise, the dog must stop and remain in the standing position as the handler leaves, and the must down, sit, come to front, and finish to the left side, all on hand signals alone.
I teach sit from stand on a verbal command, and mostly sit from down with a hand signal.
In the Utility signal exercise, the dog must stop and remain in the standing position as the handler leaves, and the must down, sit, come to front, and finish to the left side, all on hand signals alone.
I use the "up" command on Bailey. When he is in his "down" position and I want to get him up, I say "up" and he puts his paws up in my hand (I have my flat palm up in front of my body.) Almost like a give me your paw command. I initially started it with a treat and would tell him "up" and he'd come up to my palm where the treat was.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2005
- Messages
- 6,125
- Likes
- 0
- Points
- 0
. What I've been doing is taking a treat and lurring her into the sitting position as she sits up.
R
do not try to teach stand from down.
Teach stand from sit.
with the dog sitting in heel position, place your right hand on the chest so the dog cannot move forward.
With the left hand, tickle just in front of the rear leg. Some dogs you might have to lift a bit. As the dog stands up say STAND, YES!! and food reward.
Once the dog learns stand from sit, most will stand from down as well with a tiny bit of help.
Teach stand from sit.
with the dog sitting in heel position, place your right hand on the chest so the dog cannot move forward.
With the left hand, tickle just in front of the rear leg. Some dogs you might have to lift a bit. As the dog stands up say STAND, YES!! and food reward.
Once the dog learns stand from sit, most will stand from down as well with a tiny bit of help.
All good advice from above.....
In my own experience, I use a hand command as well as vocal. I always use my right hand for hand signals and when starting out (and mixing it up a bit) the treat is always in my right hand too. "Kinda" hidden, but the dog sees it and smells it.
First off, use a really good treat, not just a milk bone, but chicken, steak etc... to start off with.
Have your dog come to you, show the treat, and then hold it with your thumb and third finger, this will enable you to use (or at least my) hand signal.
Use your index finger- stuck out and say sit AS you put your hand over the dogs head. That's the sit position. Reward and praise RIGHT AWAY....
I would now implement the stay commmand, BEFORE you start the "stand" or "up" position. That way your dog will not immediatly get up before you want him or her to get up. So practice on the STAY command. Get another treat, hold it, and I hold out my whole hand for stay. Start for a few seconds and reward, then move on for longer time.
THEN, start with stand or up position. Get another treat, and I use my index finger again, but with a motion of making a backwards "C" with a vocal command as well. Treat immediatley, and praise.
I then would mix it up with just treats or just praise, because when you are out and about with your dog, you may or may not always have treats on you. They will not know.....
In my own experience, I use a hand command as well as vocal. I always use my right hand for hand signals and when starting out (and mixing it up a bit) the treat is always in my right hand too. "Kinda" hidden, but the dog sees it and smells it.
First off, use a really good treat, not just a milk bone, but chicken, steak etc... to start off with.
Have your dog come to you, show the treat, and then hold it with your thumb and third finger, this will enable you to use (or at least my) hand signal.
Use your index finger- stuck out and say sit AS you put your hand over the dogs head. That's the sit position. Reward and praise RIGHT AWAY....
I would now implement the stay commmand, BEFORE you start the "stand" or "up" position. That way your dog will not immediatly get up before you want him or her to get up. So practice on the STAY command. Get another treat, hold it, and I hold out my whole hand for stay. Start for a few seconds and reward, then move on for longer time.
THEN, start with stand or up position. Get another treat, and I use my index finger again, but with a motion of making a backwards "C" with a vocal command as well. Treat immediatley, and praise.
I then would mix it up with just treats or just praise, because when you are out and about with your dog, you may or may not always have treats on you. They will not know.....
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2006
- Messages
- 1,083
- Likes
- 0
- Points
- 0
Like RD said, there's a difference between teaching a position and teaching a movement.
For most people, teaching a sit means that when the dog is standing, they give a "sit" command and the dog learns to put its bottom to the floor. The movement is one of the haunches dropping down. This can't be generalized to a sit from a down, because the movement now is a lifting of the front end - completely different from the original "sit".
So you go through the training steps to teach each behavior. Just like you had to through the training to teach your dog a sit from a stand, you go through all the training to teach your dog a sit from a down. You can use the same command if you want and the dog will eventually learn that "sit" means sit regardless of what position they're in beforehand.
So I would use the treat at the nose, bring the dog's front end up and praise and treat. Gradually fade the treat and use your hand only as cue, and then add in the verbal command.
I teach my dogs a stand from both a sit and a down. My youngest chow does a beautiful stand, folds back into a down, and then back up into a stand without ever moving her feet. She knew this by the time she was about six months old. The trick to this is to teach them a down where they lay upright on their bellies instead of curled to the side. I call this the "sphinx" down. My dogs learn two types of down - the sphinx down and a regular down where they curl on one hip. Each down has a separate command.
Trying to get your dog to stand from a curled down would be much more difficult as the dog would have to adjust their body more to get out of the curled position and into a stand. You certainly can teach your dog to do this, but it will take longer.
I initially teach the stand from a sit, using a treat at the nose and a step forward if necessary. My goal is to have the dog stand without moving the front forward, so I keep that as minimal as possible. I often touch the dog's hind leg lightly to help them stand. I use a treat held between the fingers of my right hand, reach over in front of the dog's nose and direct them forward while touching the hind leg to encourage them to move that leg backwards to stand. I phase out the treat in my hand quickly (I still treat, just not lure) and use the hand signal without the treat.
When the stand is working well, I teach it from the sphinx down. If the dog is laying properly on its belly, it's an easy motion up and into a stand.
I find a stand is handy even if you're not going to show your dog. A dog that understands the concept of stand and stay is easier to groom and easier for a vet to examine.
Melanie and the gang in Alaska
For most people, teaching a sit means that when the dog is standing, they give a "sit" command and the dog learns to put its bottom to the floor. The movement is one of the haunches dropping down. This can't be generalized to a sit from a down, because the movement now is a lifting of the front end - completely different from the original "sit".
So you go through the training steps to teach each behavior. Just like you had to through the training to teach your dog a sit from a stand, you go through all the training to teach your dog a sit from a down. You can use the same command if you want and the dog will eventually learn that "sit" means sit regardless of what position they're in beforehand.
So I would use the treat at the nose, bring the dog's front end up and praise and treat. Gradually fade the treat and use your hand only as cue, and then add in the verbal command.
I teach my dogs a stand from both a sit and a down. My youngest chow does a beautiful stand, folds back into a down, and then back up into a stand without ever moving her feet. She knew this by the time she was about six months old. The trick to this is to teach them a down where they lay upright on their bellies instead of curled to the side. I call this the "sphinx" down. My dogs learn two types of down - the sphinx down and a regular down where they curl on one hip. Each down has a separate command.
Trying to get your dog to stand from a curled down would be much more difficult as the dog would have to adjust their body more to get out of the curled position and into a stand. You certainly can teach your dog to do this, but it will take longer.
I initially teach the stand from a sit, using a treat at the nose and a step forward if necessary. My goal is to have the dog stand without moving the front forward, so I keep that as minimal as possible. I often touch the dog's hind leg lightly to help them stand. I use a treat held between the fingers of my right hand, reach over in front of the dog's nose and direct them forward while touching the hind leg to encourage them to move that leg backwards to stand. I phase out the treat in my hand quickly (I still treat, just not lure) and use the hand signal without the treat.
When the stand is working well, I teach it from the sphinx down. If the dog is laying properly on its belly, it's an easy motion up and into a stand.
I find a stand is handy even if you're not going to show your dog. A dog that understands the concept of stand and stay is easier to groom and easier for a vet to examine.
Melanie and the gang in Alaska
lol!! great advice from above... us trainers all have a different stance on things, but as long as it works, and is postive for the dog/animal (I train all types of animals), then it is good.
Try, try and try again sometimes... again, i feel it's an art form to a point and I love it.
you just need to find what is best for you and your dog.
Try, try and try again sometimes... again, i feel it's an art form to a point and I love it.
you just need to find what is best for you and your dog.