Don't Pull?

keyodie

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#1
Well whenever I take Charlie out for a walk, he always seems to be giving me a walk instead of him. He pulls me so hard, I can't believe his neck doesn't hurt at all! Sometimes I would pull him back and hold his leash up so that he can't sniff the ground, and then I let him go after a few minutes. But he does it again! Can anyone give me tips on how to train him to "heel" and just not pull on me so hard? Cuz I played with him on my scooter and...major owie.

I want to train him to heel and to not pull, but I don't want to be too rough with him. Does anyone have any good tips on how to do this? Thx!
 

Adrienne

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#2
There are a couple of things you can try. You could use treats, holding them in your hand letting the pup know they are there and praising him for paying attention to you. You can try zig-zagging whenever he pulls or stopping and just standing until there is slack on the leash and then praise. You could also try an anti-pull harness, they work wonders for some people but I would try the other suggestions first.
 
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#3
As Adrienne says, there's a variety of methods. What I found worked with Jake was holding a treat in front of him and giving the command 'with me'...and of course, when either his attention - or the treats ran out, I'd switch directions on him when he started pulling. One thing I added to the treat trick was to point my index finger down where I wanted his nose (and the treat balled up in my fist so he could smell it).

The results aren't immediate, but what I found was Jake started off being able to stay at my side for a couple of houses to start with (when he was about 4 mos. old) saying 'with me' every few steps to being able to go half way around the block with only my finger pointed at him and using the verbal command only once in a while by the time he was 6 mos. old. And because we practiced inside and out - with and without the leash, that command is good whether he's on or off the leash.
 

Doberluv

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#4
Some great suggestions! Think too, of it this way: What payoff is he yearning for AND getting when he's pulling and you're continuing to walk along behind him? He's wanting....in the worst way to go forward and se the big, wide world. He can hardly contain himself, he wants it so much. He'd drag a house behind him if he could to get to where he's going.....forward. Remove that payoff/reward for that pulling behavior. Remove forward motion. Don't let it happen for one more step.

Now, what can you think of to give him as an alternative behavior for which he CAN be rewarded. What reward is equal to or better than that pulling forward and getting where he wants to get? Well, first, you're going to have to teach him an alternate way to move forward which you will reward him for with a VERY SPECIAL treat and a very cheerful voice. So, you first stop moving forward, stand strong. Show him you're not budging. Stand for as long as it takes for him to wonder what the heck you're doing. He'll look back and probably take a step or two toward you, putting slack in the leash. At that point, resume walking. He'll again pull. You turn and walk the other way. You make all kinds of random turns so he doesn't anticipate where you're going. He'll pay better attention to you. When you turn, be careful not to hurt his neck. Whenever there is a moment of slack in the leash or he's closer to you, praise and pop a treat in his mouth while you're walking. Don't stop or wait. Treat him immediately when he's doing the behavior you like. After he improves a little bit, try walking in a straight line and see if he'll cooperate. If he takes so much as 3 steps along side you without pulling, reward him. Show him that where he is (next to you) is what you like and what will bring him a GREAT reward. A clicker is great. You can mark exactly where he is with the click so he knows precisely what it is you're talking about. Without it, you've got to be quick with popping the treat in his mouth.

All in all, make it worth his while to walk nicely. Make it fun, enjoyable, tasty (yum yum) and forward moving WHEN he complies. Don't provide the fun of walking forward or the left over steak tid bits or the happy, playful praise when he pulls. He'll figure out ON HIS OWN (using his OWN brain) what way of walking is more beneficial to him. You'll have to remember to make the reward better than the reward he gets from pulling.

Practice in the least amount of distractions you can for a while. That helps too.

Teach him also, "watch me." eye contact=treat. Use that when you're walking once he learns.

Nothing in training happens overnight with a pup. It takes practice like absolutely everything in life. If anyone says that you get a trained dog quickly by yanking their collars or scolding, don't buy into that. They may demonstrate behaviors quicker when they're broken down in spirit, but is that worth it? I'd much rather have a dog who enjoys learning and is happy when he accomplishes new skills. I also like a dog who is encouraged to use his own head, given a choice and not be forced into doing something. (I make the choice he is going to choose the one I want him to choose. s-h-h-h....don't tell him)
 

sparks19

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#6
here is a question. what if your dog does not respond to treats when outside. i dont' really have any problems with teddy outside but treats do NOT interest him outside. I'm sure everyone is thinking "well get him something yummy he can't resist" there ISN'T anything he can't resist lol. it could be liver wrapped in turkey wrapped in chicken wrapped in bacon and he still woudln't care lol (my god thats a heart attack waiting to happen isn't it lol gross) I try to praise him when he does something well outside but he just takes the physical praise and leaves the treat. I"m sure someone else has had this problem at some time. I'm just saying what if her dog doesn't respond to treats outside like he does inside what should one do then.

Also I apologize for sticking my answer in this thread not trying to hijack just a quick answer will be enough for me :D
 
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#7
I found when training Jake he had his 'inside' rules' and his outside 'rules'. In otherwords, he'd come, sit, stay and all of that inside but was very much his own dog outside.

What I did was put him on a retractable leash and went through the basics with him at the local park....and once he figured out that rules were rules, inside or out, things fell into place. I still rewarded him when he did as I told him, but if he was too distracted with something, I could flick the leash to get his attention. And much like being inside, the first thing I had Jake do was 'come' - which later on came in very handy while crossing a road and his leash became unattached to his collar. And to this day, I still put him through his paces as you never know when a command is the only thing keeping your dog from taking off.
 

Doberluv

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#8
Not every dog is treat motivated. Most are, especially if you get something fantastic. It might be a fillet mignon. LOL. Find out WHAT does motivate your dog....a toy that is really cool that he doesn't get to play with at any other time but training? If there's nothing you can use, what DOES he like? If forging ahead is all he can think about, then that is his reward. WHEN and only WHEN he walks in a civilized fashion, does he get the reward of moving forward. Sometimes you have to spend some time analyzing what it is that floats your dog's boat. LOL.
 

Fran27

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#9
I had the problem with Boris, and we mostly fixed it. Mostly because he still pulls if he sees something he wants to reach (mostly people or another dog), but otherwise he's fine.

I did mostly what Doberluv said, using treats basically everytime the leash was loose. But when I didn't have treats handy (which was most of the time), I would just stop. Eventually he would look at me, then I would start walking again. It took a few weeks, but it worked, because he found out that if he pulled he wasn't going to go anywhere.
 

Doberluv

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#10
it worked, because he found out that if he pulled he wasn't going to go anywhere.
And when he did not pull, he got to go for a walk....forward even. How cool is that? And sometimes the dog even gets a treat and lots of attention for keeping slack in the leash.

Exactly and simply. There's nothing complicated about positive training methods.
 
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#12
I taught Tippy not to pull by using the tree method. Once she pulled, I stopped and she had to come, sit and wait a few seconds, then we'd start walking again. I was very consistent and soon she learned not to pull. It takes forever, though. She's gotten back into a little pulling, I've tried encouraging her to stay by me with the yummiest treats we have, but once I give a treat she wanders in front of me again :rolleyes:. Gonna be doing the tree method again and working harder this time.
 

opokki

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#13
I used the "be a tree" method too but also changed direction frequently. Natalie started paying more attention to what I was doing in knowing that I may suddenly change direction. I was'nt really using treats to teach her to walk nicely but used them during our walks to practice "look" and other basic cues while there were some distractions going on around us.
 

Doberluv

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#14
Oh....I forgot....frequent sits. Dog doesn't know what the heck you're going to do next and starts paying attention....that and the turns. Don't forget the rewards!
 

keyodie

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#15
Thanks guys! Just yesterday I started teaching him how to "lie down". lol its funny because Whenever I say sit he will jump into the lie down position...sry for the off topic comment...

Yeah well Charlie will keep pulling and pulling because he loves to sniff and everything and he won't even lick my hand when I put it on front of him. He gets so absorbed in his sniffing, lol.
 

Fran27

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keyodie said:
Thanks guys! Just yesterday I started teaching him how to "lie down". lol its funny because Whenever I say sit he will jump into the lie down position...

Boris does that too. Weird dogs. Lol.
 

bridey_01

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#17
If your dog won't eat outside he isn't hungry enough. I teach all of my dogs to LOVE eating outside by only feeding them in publice places, worked like a charm and now my dogs will work for plain old kibble:)
 

Doberluv

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#18
My dog works sooooo much better too, when he's hungry. He is sooo into his treats at agility because he never eats before and it's like 2 or 3 hours past his usual meal time. It takes a whole hour to drive there. Then he's hungry and really working for those liver treats. He never seems to want to eat before we go, so he ends up getting hungry by the time we're getting into it. So training sessions at home too, are best done when the dog is a bit hungry.
 

Doberluv

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#20
That's great! Not many people teach their dog to do that. You can go on and do more stuff like that...down, then sit, then stand, down, stand...good for their brain exercise. LOL. Praise after just a few in a series at first so he gets the idea that he's on the right track. Then later he can do more before he gets rewarded.
 

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