Crazy pulling when she sees another dog

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#1
First off you guys have been alot of help in the posts I have read on this site as well as the couple of posts I have posted and received responses. I also know that the best option would be for me to take patty to obediance class but unfortunatly its not an option at the moment so that's why I'm asking for a little assistance.

I just need some direction since there seems to be so many little things to work on with her and I don't know if which do do anymore. lol

My question right now is that when we're out on a walk and there is another dog close by or coming close, she pulls (cause she wants to get there faster), sometimes pulls hard enough that it almost takes me off balance, and then she starts to wimper and gets very vocal. Then eventually she starts to bark. When all this happens I can't get her attention. Even if I stand in front of her she goes around me. If I stand with her on my left side facing the same way she does she backs up and tries to go between my legs.

I think (and I could be wrong) she needs to be taught the proper way to approach another dog. She does this a bit with people but not as bad. I can usually get her attention and get her to "almost" be calm. lol

Now I have been working on our walks trying to get her "not to pull" with 50/50 success...and the shortcummings are more then likely due to errors on my part.

So when we meet up with other dogs like that do I...stop until she is no longer pulling?? Cause i've been trying this but she just seems to go crazy until the dog is out of sight. Perhaps I need to requent more locations with dogs so we practice this more often. Just looking for a little direction here. help would be appreciate.

Oh, Also the reason I don't want her pulling when we go up to a dog is because I've found then when we first meet with a dog she has a bit of leash agression because she usually sniffs for 30-60 seconds then barks, or lunges at the other dg. She doesn't do that when I introduce her to new dogs (such as friends dogs) when we're at there house off leash. Even once that intial on leash bark or lunge happens and the other dog answers back after they are pulled apart she's usually ok with the other dog...however most owners don't stick around to let them happen....and I probably wouldn't either if someone that I didn't know had there dog just snap at my dog.
 

Cessena

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#2
I have this almost exact problem. My dog gets really excited, and so if he does get to meet another dog, I'm not sure he is always polite. He bonked heads with a smaller dog and that dog "taught him a lesson." Right now I am also working on loose leash walking, but as soon as another dog is around all that goes out the window.

When I see another dog coming, or notice him noticing something, I try to head down the nearest block, cross the street, or whatever to avoid them. It also helps if the other dog isn't as excited to greet mine. (There was a little puggle today taht pretty much ignored him and we were able to get away quickly without much incident.)

I could really use advice on this if anyone has any, I want to take him to obedience class but until this is better I am not sure I should.
 

hbwright

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#3
Cessena, go ahead and enroll him. Believe me, they are used to it and will help you with it.

I would try to keep in a low-traffic area to work on your loose-lease walking to start with. Work on keeping their attention and if you have to go ahead and cross the road when you see the distraction coming until you know he can handle the distraction. If he is still lunging and reacting the he is not ready for that much distraction yet. Start off with less distracting distractions and move up. If he has a set back then set yourself back too and progress a little slower. I've used stuffed cats in my back-yard strategically placed, asked neighbors that he knows to walk by, neighbors he is not familiar with, my kids riding a bike, etc. etc. until he is ready for the dog on the leash distraction. He should either completely ignore them while paying attention to you or if you stop to talk he should sit automatically when approached to stop. Use loads of jackpot treats if need be. When the distraction comes in sight, use the high pitched, excited voice, "look at me", treat, praise, treat, praise, continue walking. If he breaks off distracted put him into a sit (keep working on a reliable sit) and keep working for his attention and like I said before, back off on the distractions again working your way back up.

When working on your loose-leash there should be no pulling at all, distraction or not. If they start to pull you can give the lead a little slack and jerk it back quickly. The next step to help is to do an about face. When the dog starts off ahead, turn abruptly. Another idea is to turn into them if they start getting ahead. Basically as soon as they start one step ahead you turn on your left foot into them cutting them off (bettter done in a yard where you can practice in circles).

We've been working very hard on this also because during training class Jordan would think it was the most wonderful thing in the world that he had friends to play with. Somebody reminded me that we are not there for play and we are there for training. Now I work before every class to keep his attention on me and away from the other dogs. It doesn't take very long it seems for them to start understanding this. And, before every play session with friends coming over I make him great his friends with a nice "sit" before I unleash him or release him to play.
 

Tazwell

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#4
I'm new here, so forgive me if I do or say something abnormal for this forum :p

Anyway, I've been working with a Mastiff mix that my rescue has had for quite some time. Poor guy has been in our rescue for much of his 10 months of life, because of his unruly behavior. So lately, I've started to work with him, while he's at the stores (He's boarded, not fostered-- so nobody can work with him in a home setting-- He's my next in line for fostering! :) )

Anywho-- He does the same thing, only he's got a horrible piercing bark, and 100lbs of weight to throw around. So this is what I've done-- When he's at the store, and I'm walking towards another dog, or even a person he really wants to see, he'll start barking and lunging (not in an aggressive manner, of course.). As soon as he starts this, I immediately say a short, curt "Ah-ah!" or "No!" And turn and walk in the other direction, popping the leash for him to follow me. The more he does this, the more he learns-- as soon as he starts making a scene, he gets pulled away from where he wants to go. Of course he gets praised when he's being a good boy!

So it's basically the same principle as hbwright posted :) I just wanted to share my success with these methods on Billy-Bob! Good luck with your training!
 

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