Breaking Up and Avoiding Dog Fights?

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#1
The other day i was walking my dog past this house and the chow mix that lives there (who has always had a running conflict with my labrador) charges out and attacks my dog. Her owners weren't around and I know hitting the dogs doesn't help but I shoved the chow off with my foot and yelled at her until she ran back into her yard and around the house. What could I have done to stop the fight or keep it from happening. We don't see her very often, and almost never go by the house. Any advice wold be great!

(By the way, my dog is fine except for a bite mark on the side of her neck)
 

cinnamon

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#2
I'd be calling animal control and reporting the owner. Isn't there a law that the dog has to be leashed or the owner should have total control?

That would scare the poop out of me and my dog :( She doesn't handle strange dogs well at all.
 

elegy

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You can carry Mace or Pepper Spray. I'm often able to head off a dog by stepping toward it and yelling NO in a very firm voice and telling it to go home. It's all about tone and presence, I guess. It doesn't work every time, but it's something to try.

I'm glad your dog is ok.
 

Lizmo

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#6
Gotta agree with Blue. You have every right to protect you and your dog. Don't be afriad to.

I'm dealing with the same thing, right now I can yell at the dog a loud, firm, and angry "NO!". But talk to the owners, they may not know she's doing this if they aren't their.
 

Maxy24

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#7
Pepper spray or halt (specifically for dogs). I suppose you could also learn how to use a break stick.
 

noludoru

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#10
Mace, pepper spray, halt, a staff, steel toed boots, a cane....... ANYTHING. Your voice and presence (as Elegy said) are your FIRST line of defense. Shoulders up, deep, loud voice... look and act confident. If that fails, bring out the halt. If the halt fails or you don't have it on you it's time to start pounding on the other dog. That's why I like something like a cane or staff, though a staff is quite unwieldy for walks....
 
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#11
I suppose you could also learn how to use a break stick.
That would depend on the dog actually. There's basically two classification of "biting", slashers and holders. Bullies and Rotties tend to be "holders" which mean they'll bite down and hang on for all their worth. Huskies and LGD tend to be slashers meaning they'll bite, shake to do some damage, then rebite, shake to do some damage, rebite etc etc. Break sticks are pretty much useless on slashers because they are constantly rebiting as is. They want to do the most damage in the least amount of time. Break sticks are designed for the holders because the dog is only gonna try to maintain that first bite he took while you wedge the stick in his mouth and usually wont rebite until he feels you crank his mouth open (which is why one hand needs to be holding the collar/scruff firmly while the other uses the break stick). If you look at the teeth of slashers and holders, slashers tend to have a bit longer canines, while holders tend to have shorter stouter canines (which dont break off as easily).

Beware of carrying mace. Though it can be effective, depending on where the wind is coming from and other variables you are just as likely to get it in your own dogs eyes, or even on you yourself as you are to get it on the attacking dog. Also, depending on the dog, it may not stop him but instead just turn him into a very angry dog who is now attacking blindly.

If a dog rushes me and my guys I will do anything it takes to get them away (yelling, hitting, kicking etc). I'm really not concerned about hurting the other dog if it has already put me or my guys in danger. But like mentioned above, in many cases, all it takes is confident body labguage and a firm "no" to keep a loose dog at bay.
 
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#12
That would depend on the dog actually. There's basically two classification of "biting", slashers and holders. Bullies and Rotties tend to be "holders" which mean they'll bite down and hang on for all their worth. Huskies and LGD tend to be slashers meaning they'll bite, shake to do some damage, then rebite, shake to do some damage, rebite etc etc.
This dog was definately a slasher. She would have started 'rebiting' had I not kicked her off. Also, someone suggested ammonia and water in a spray bottle? Would that work? I doubt I can get aholad of pepper spray here.
 

lizzybeth727

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#13
Don't know about ammonia, although I have heard of listerine and water in a spray bottle - if you get the listerine in the mouth, the dogs should HATE it (from what I've heard). If you get the listerine in their eyes, it'll burn like pepper spray. Certainly aim for the mouth first.

You also want to make sure that you're not on the other dog owners' property at any point. If you're on their property, you are responsible for damages.
 
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#14
You also want to make sure that you're not on the other dog owners' property at any point. If you're on their property, you are responsible for damages.
Nay, 'twas on the street. The law here is that you need to have a sign up saying "Beware of Dog" then your dog can do whatever. But this was the street.

Thanks for all the tips people! :)
 

Sch3Dana

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#15
Really sorry to hear about the incident. A dog fight is a scary, stressful and potentially very dangerous event. I dealt with this as a daily event when I was living in Los Angeles and training my dog in public parks and hiking him in the mountains. It seemed like almost every Los Angeleno believed not only that their dog should be free to run off leash, but that the rest of us should be thrilled to let our dogs "play" with theirs. Of course, there were dog fights all the time and being the person with the intact male was not a treat.

I learned to warn people ahead of time when they looked like they wanted to set their dog towards me for "play time". I told them, "please put your dog on a leash, mine is not friendly". The not friendly part was key to any sort of compliance. Many seem to need to believe that their dog will be injured before they leash them up. Of course, a warning is no good for a dog without an owner, like the one you encountered.

I also learned to listen intently for the sound of incoming dogs. That usually helped on hikes or in the neighborhood where the line of sight was poor. That may have helped in your incident. Also, watch your dog. You may not hear the chow coming, but he will certainly be listening, especially after this most recent incident. If you see him start posturing, put him down and get in front of him, in the direction he is indicating. (see below for more about this)

If a dog was obviously coming for a "play session" I put my dog on a down and stepped about 10 feet in front of him towards the incoming dog. At this point I either chased them off or caught them, depending on how aggressive they actually were. A sweet dog is usually easy to catch and there's no reason to scare them by chasing them. But, the ones that really wanted to get to my dog to challenge him I scolded or yelled at or lunged at until they ran away. It's really pretty easy to keep them off your dog if he holds his down. And, putting him on the down does a lot to deflate incoming dogs. He can't posture or stimulate the other dog much while he is down. I rarely had any trouble chasing them off. If I could tell they were really coming for blood, I pulled out whatever I had on me to use as a "weapon" to threaten them more. There were only a few that I ever had to kick to keep off my dog. The majority really give up very easily when they see they are going to have a pretty big fight on their hands.

Using this method, I never had a single dog fight, though I had quite a few fun training sessions ruined by nasty dogs and even nastier owners who thought they were entitled to break leash laws and harass me. The only time one of my dogs was attacked, I was hurrying to get ice for a friend with a broken finger and not paying attention to the nasty chow lying behind the hot dog cart. I came with my puppy on a leash to ask for ice and the chow was on top of him before I could do anything.

I've never tried the bear spray- it just seems to likely to back-fire on you. Has anyone here actually used it?

As for breaking up a fight once it has started, there is nothing as good as a whiffle ball bat full of pebbles- learned that from a good old time horse guy. The whiffle ball bat smarts on contact but won't do any serious damage and the rocks make a really scary noise. Combine that with crazy erratic swinging and I think you could breakup most dog fights. I have used that one with success when I had two males get together by mistake (the kennel I was working at kept one handy).

Good luck!
 

PennyRose

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#16
One thing that I do is carry an umbrella with me.
If an oncoming dog shows up looking like he/she is going to start trouble, pop open the umbrella and say "GO HOME" in a deep no play voice.
It works EVERY TIME!
 

Sch3Dana

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#17
One thing that I do is carry an umbrella with me.
If an oncoming dog shows up looking like he/she is going to start trouble, pop open the umbrella and say "GO HOME" in a deep no play voice.
It works EVERY TIME!
Wow!!! That's great! And so much simpler than my explanation :hail:
 

PennyRose

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#18
Yup, it does work and well.
But, I can't take credit for the idea, i read it in a book a long time ago and decided to give it a try on my walks. It really works! LOL
Sue
 

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