Basic Skills for Agility

MandyPug

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#1
So as one of my resolutions to spend more time with Izzie, a sub resolution has come about and that is to sign up for Agility in the spring.

My question is, since i have quite a bit of time before sign up, what kind of basic stuff would be recommended to have down before joining the class? I wanna be totally prepared going into this (I'm extremely competitive and driven to be the best, I'm working on it and blame my early days of competitive figure skating when i was young) so we can excel in the class rather than being held back by not having these basics down.

Anyways, I'm so excited to get into this. There's no Pugs in agility in my area so i think it'll be a cool way to show my breed off and i've talked to alot of my clients that do agility and they're totally supportive and think Izzie and i will be great at it!

Thanks in advance!
 

lmannix

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#2
I started agility with my mix breed Coda 6 months ago and in hindsite I would have liked to have had more attention work under our belt. Also I am now trying to get her to enjoy tugging more, as that is a really good reward in agility, rather than just using food treats. If your future class will be using a target for training contact obstacles you can train that ahead of time. Check youtube for how to clips, especially, I think, Expert Village offers a number of beginning ones that explain target training and how it is used with contact obstacles.
 

Taqroy

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#3
I don't have anything useful to add to this thread but wanted to say that I'd be really interested in the answers. I keep thinking that maybe someday I'll have the opportunity to get involved in agility. :p
 

adojrts

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#4
There are many things you can teach your dog and yourself to prep for agility.

The first thing that is a must is a 'watch me'.
-Self control games like dog zen/It's your Choice.
-Getting them very excited and then teaching them to calm down/settle/relax is a very valuable tool to also have.
-A solid down/sit stay in which you can get at least 40 - 50 ft away from your dog in any direction, run past your dog while they stay, take off running while they stay until released and so on.
-Spirals with the dog on the right and the left (on the L- more difficult, you don't want them running into you).
-Sending them out and around objects, working towards distance.
-On the flat Front crosses, Rear Crosses and Flips.
- Contact board, teaching a contact critria that they don't leave until released.
-wobble/tippy boards
-Plank work
-Ladder work and backing up for hind end awareness.
-Running with them at various speeds, working on slowing down and speeding up on both sides and the dog staying with you
-Target training, then combine that with target and/or task vs handler focus.
-Solid proofed recall
-Solid proofed Off or Leave it.

That is what I can think of off the top of my head
 

CaliTerp07

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#5
It really depends on what your dog is like. In my beginner class, the dogs ranged from those who were terrified to try any obstacle, to those who couldn't sit still and ran circles around everyone. Since Lucy fell in the latter category, my suggestions relate to those kind of dogs.

FOCUS work! When we started with Lucy, any time we unclipped her leash, she'd run over to say hi to the other dogs--agility seemed like a dog park to her, and she couldn't understand why she wasn't allowed to play. A year later, it's finally there, and life is so much easier. We had to find treats that were valuable enough for her (cheese), and constantly reward her (ever 10 seconds) for the entire hour long class at first, but it's better now.

Distance stays are big too. Again, due to wanting to play with everyone, it was tricky to get her to stay in an exciting environment. She's so fast that I really need a good lead out. We are working on proofing our stays with me doing jumping jacks, other dogs walking by, weird noises, etc.

Finally, mat work/crate training. We adopted Lucy as an adult who had never been crate trained (that I can tell). She HATES her crate. Problematic, as if we ever trial she will need a "calm spot" to go to.
 

adojrts

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#6
Finally, mat work/crate training. We adopted Lucy as an adult who had never been crate trained (that I can tell). She HATES her crate. Problematic, as if we ever trial she will need a "calm spot" to go to.
Can you use an x-pen? I always take an x-pen with me to trials, inside and outdoors, as do most people that go to trials up here. Some dogs do require a cover and/or a bottom but they give the dogs more room to stretch out be comfortable.

And have you ever tried Garrett's Crate Games?
 

MandyPug

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#8
Thanks for those adojrts! I never thought of lots of those! We've definately got some work to do plus a lot of fine tuning.

Finally, mat work/crate training. We adopted Lucy as an adult who had never been crate trained (that I can tell). She HATES her crate. Problematic, as if we ever trial she will need a "calm spot" to go to.
See Izzie's fine with crates and her bag, but the thing is we don't own a crate or pen or even a vari-kennel.. she has a sherpa bag and that's about it. I doubt we'll be doing trials for a good while but i assume a pen or crate would be something good to invest in?
 

adojrts

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#9
Thanks for those adojrts! I never thought of lots of those! We've definately got some work to do plus a lot of fine tuning.



See Izzie's fine with crates and her bag, but the thing is we don't own a crate or pen or even a vari-kennel.. she has a sherpa bag and that's about it. I doubt we'll be doing trials for a good while but i assume a pen or crate would be something good to invest in?
Your welcome and if you need to know how to train any of those, just shout :D

Yes, you will need a crate or x-pen for trialing another thing that is very common at trials/shows are EZ-Ups or shade tents. Although not everyone has them, most do and they certainly come in handy to keep the sun off the dogs or bad weather.
 

adojrts

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#10
Do you have links to literature on these? Puh-leeeese? :D
Sure, but I am sure you can find it many places on line.

Here it is.

This is Doggy Zen, as instructed by Virginia Wind.


Doggy Zen Steps 1-10

Dog who have learned self-control are less likely to be reactive. Unfortunately the usual obedience classes don’t teach life skills like self-control so we have to do it.

The added benefit of doggy Zen is that the dog won’t try to take candy from babies!

General rules:

Always be calm.
Other than when instructed, keep your (very verbal species) mouth closed We always want to talk to “help†our dogs get it right. Self-control is best learned by the dog learning to make the right decision without interference. That’s what the clicker or marker word does, it “marks†the right behavior.
Always end on a positive.

To avoid excess typing, when “mark†is used, it means click or say your marker word.


Doggy Zen Step 1

Put a treat in your hand and close your fist.
Put your fist right in front of your dog's nose, I like to be sitting and rest my forearm on my leg.
Let the dog sniff, nibble and mouth at your hand. If the dog is mouthing hard, put a glove on. Fireplace/barbeque gloves or heavy winter ski gloves are thick enough to protect your hand.
Be patient. Dogs who have not ever learned self-control take a while to figure this out.
The instant the dog moves the head away from your fist, mark, open your fist, drop the treat on the floor and cue the dog to “go get itâ€.
When the dog does not mug your fist three times in a row in a cold trial, move on to the next step. Note: a cold trial is the first “trial†in a session.

If children are wandering around with food in their fists, your dog won't try to take the food from the child!

Doggy Zen Step 2

Hold a treat in your open palm right in front of the dog's face.
If the dog tries to grab it, close your fist. Do not pull your hand away from the dog.
When the dog backs off, open your fist.
The instant the dog backs away from your open palm, mark, drop the treat on the floor and cue the dog to “go get itâ€.
When the dog does not attempt to snatch the treat three times in a row in a cold trial, move on to the next step.

Doggy Zen Step 3

>From now on, all treats are fed from your hand, you do not drop anything on the ground.

Put a treat on the ground and cover it with your hand.
The instant the dog stops trying to get the treat out from under your hand, mark, pick up the treat and hand feed it to the dog.
When the dog does not attempt to mug your hand three times in a row in a cold trial, move on to the next step.

Doggy Zen Step 4

Put a treat on the ground with your hand right next to it. If the dog tries to grab it, cover it with your hand. When the dog backs off, uncover the treat.
The instant the dog pulls his head away from the uncovered treat, mark, pick up the treat and hand feed it to the dog.

Doggy Zen Step 5

This is the same as step 4, except wait until the dog looks at your face before you mark and hand feed the treat.
If you feel like you are waiting forever, you can make little noises (do not say the dog’s name), the first one or two times.

Doggy Zen Step 6

Hold a treat in both hands.
As you are feeding the dog with one hand, drop the other treat on the ground.
As this is difficult for everyone except the most coordinated people in the world who use a clicker, unless you have a second person to click, use a marker word.
If the dog grabs the treat off the ground, do not feed the treat in your hand, just do it again.

Doggy Zen Step 7

Drop the treat first, then feed from your hand, then pick up the treat and feed the dropped treat.
Increase the duration of the “stayâ€, but don’t cue the dog to stay to a count of 5.

Doggy Zen Step 8

This is the same as step 7, except wait for the dog to look at your face before you hand feed the treat, then pick up the other treat.
And it’s time to name it. “Leave it†is the most common name used, “mineâ€, “not yours†are also common names. It doesn’t matter what you name it as long as it is something you will say consistently, so make it something familiar and easy for yourself.

Doggy Zen Step 9

Put a wad of treats in one hand.
Drop a treat and then back away from the dog, saying “Leave it!†(or whatever you have named it), “Come!†in your happy voice.
If the dog comes with you, feed the wad of treats, then pick up the dropped treat and hand feed that.

Doggy Zen Step 10

Put some low value treats (kibble is often a low value treat) in a bowl on the ground.
Walk the dog past the bowl, staying out of leash range of the bowl. If the dog tries to get to the bowl, be a tree (stand still, no talking).
The instant the dog looks at you, mark and treat with a high value treat (steak, chicken, cheese, hot dogs, etc).
Repeat, repeat, repeat until the instant the dog sees the bowl, the dog looks at you.
 

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