Sunlight?

Discussion in 'Photography' started by Lizmo, Mar 5, 2009.

  1. Lizmo

    Lizmo Water Junkie

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    I need help. I'm using the manual setting. ISO 100. White balance is auto. f/5 and a shutter speed of 125.

    But if the sun is behind me or I'm shooting into the sun, this happens. . .

    [​IMG]

    Yet, if I change the settins to portrait mode this happens, same. . .sun behind me.

    [​IMG]

    Like it's WAY over exposed?
     
  2. HoundedByHounds

    HoundedByHounds Oh, it's *you*

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    Close your aperture? My totally non expert advice LOL.
     
  3. Lizmo

    Lizmo Water Junkie

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    How would I go about doing that? I'm still a newbie, too :lol-sign:
     
  4. HoundedByHounds

    HoundedByHounds Oh, it's *you*

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    well what do you have? If it's a Nikon there should be a way to adjust that using the click wheel...I don't run in Manual...I always use Aperture Priority...that uses the click wheel to adjust the aperture. the rest, ISO, etc...is handled thru the menu.

    I'd have to grab my camera...
    okay in Manual...focus...then hold down, the wee button up top with the pic of the Apeture on it..the plus minus...then spin the click wheel. You should see in your viewfinder the f number getting BIGGER...meaning the opening will be getting SMALLER..admitting less light...

    FWIW I seldom shoot at less than 400ISO and that'd be in A-P Mode. I have too much action in my pictures most times to go less...I really like 800...it does get noisy in low light but I don't shoot much in those circumstances.
     
  5. Saje

    Saje Island dweller

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    I never use the program modes so I don't know what the second pic was shot at BUT the first one is overexposed because it's a bright day and you should close your aperature (etc from a 5.6 to an 8) and/or speed up your shutter (125 - 250 or higher)

    Do you use the metering bar? it looks like this (inside the red circle) [​IMG]
     
  6. Chewbecca

    Chewbecca feel the magic

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    This is why you are getting over-exposure.
    You have (obviously) too much light.

    You could stop your lens down (close the lens, raise the fnumber), but f5 isn't too open, imo, not unless you WANT the water, grass and background scenery to be as sharp and as in focus as the dog.

    My suggestion?
    Up that shutter speed.
    BIG TIME. :D

    In sunlight like that, photographing a dog, I would never go lower than 1/800 for shutter speed.
    For outside shots, especially when photographing in motion subjects like dogs, keep the shutter speed up. :D
    1/125 is way too slow which is allowing way too much exposure.
     
  7. Lizmo

    Lizmo Water Junkie

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    Okay, thanks! I'll go give it a try.

    Saje, I don't use the meter bar.
     
  8. Saje

    Saje Island dweller

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    It's your best tool. ;) If you can play with those settings until the bar is close to the middle you will have a very good starting point.
     
  9. Lizmo

    Lizmo Water Junkie

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    Where would I find this meter bar? :eek:
     
  10. Saje

    Saje Island dweller

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    Pick up your camera, point it at something, look in the window, and down at the bottom should be your bar. If you want to figure it out I'd flip the camera into manual and do some test shots. All on the same object in the same lighting conditions. play with your shutter speed, your aperture, and watch that bar. If you move to one side of the bar you will be underexposed and if you move to the right you will be overexposed. You figure out which :p
     
  11. 96 GTS

    96 GTS Custom User Title

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    As others have said, your photo is way way overexposed, up your shutter speed close down the aperture, or both. Your light meter is definitely your friend, too, it'll tell you whether your photo is over or underexposed, and by how much. Any digital camera with manual settings will have one, and likely a good one, built in.

    Also, if you're shooting action, I would suggest shooting in shutter priority mode. Set the shutter speed to what you want for the desired amount of blur, and the camera will adjust the aperture to take a well exposed photo. This especially helpful while panning a moving subject, where each frame is likely to have a different amount of light.

    Program or automatic modes are not crutches, they are tools, nor does shooting in manual mode make you a "hardcore" photographer. All the different modes have their uses, and you're limiting yourself if you only use one.
     
  12. Chewbecca

    Chewbecca feel the magic

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    DSLRs don't have their own built-in light meter. You have to buy them separately.
     
  13. Saje

    Saje Island dweller

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    :confused: Yes they do. You can even change the metering modes.
     
  14. Chewbecca

    Chewbecca feel the magic

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    er...what?
    Are we talking about spot metering, matrix metering, and center?

    I always hear of them referred to as the individual metering type, not as light metering.
    I know that SLRs have a light meter, and it's called that: a light meter.

    I guess it makes sense, since it's all to due with exposure, but I have been doing so much inside photography (portraiture), that mine mainly stays on spot because spot metering works best when using the SB600 on camera.
    And I slap it on matrix when I am snapping shots outside.
    In other words, I have never gotten much into metering.

    I'M STILL NEW, D@MMIT.
     
  15. Saje

    Saje Island dweller

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    Yeah those are the types but I"m mostly talking about the light meter bar in your viewfinder that gives you an idea of when you are on target or if you are over/under exposing. All cameras have them. If you shoot manual you'll really pay attention to it. although i suspect you already do :)
     
  16. Buckshot

    Buckshot Moderator

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    May want to try a polarizer filter too.
     
  17. zoe08

    zoe08 New Member

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    Saje is right, you definitely want to look at your meter.

    First I would start out with definitely at least going to an f/8 aperture. When shooting action I would want a bit more depth of field to make sure the action is in focus.

    I always pick my depth of field first, by deciding whether I want shallow (f/4) or I want everything in focus (f/22) and you have all the varying degrees. I then make sure that I can shoot at at LEAST 1/60, preferably faster, especially for action pictures.

    You can do all this by looking at the meter Saje is talking about that is inside your viewfinder. Very important tool to shoot in manual.

    There are external light meters that is used for flash photography, like if you were setting up a studio, since your camera only measures available light. The external light meter hooks up to your flash, so that you can set your strobes off and it will tell you then what your settings should be.
     

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