Something pretty disturbing with Baloo.

Beanie

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#41
This is not how it should go - JMO. Even though I do allow teeth on skin and my dogs are mouthy, tug games have strict rules about teeth touching skin. You bite me, even by accident choking up on the tug, game ends. "Poking" him while he's tugging sounds more like you're instigating, encouraging him to redirect on to you. I would NOT do that any more.
Just to add to this... I am quite rough with Payton when we tug, I smack his sides and push him around. But he never bites or nips unless it's an accident, and yes, if he accidentally gets me, the game is over. Self control is something I've worked on a LOT with him, and it's out of necessity.

When you "poke" him and he bites you - "nip" or otherwise - and you then go back to a rousing game of tug, you've just rewarded him for biting you. I agree that you have inadvertently encouraged your dog to redirect on you. No more of that in the game.
 

*blackrose

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#42
Chloe is one of those dogs that gets overstimulated in play, and then resorts to being VERY physical. I used to be able to have structured rough housing with her, but the past few times I've been at the house and played with her I've had to stop due to her getting wound up to the point I'm afraid I'm going to end up with a nasty bite. Always before I could tell she was in control of herself; I might get nipped hard, but it was still all in play. This past time it wasn't play, but borderline outright aggression where if she was going to bite, it would have been for real. So from now on, playtime with her is completely structured. Fetch with a little bit of tug slipped in, but she has to perform commands while we're playing. (I say "sit", she sits, I throw toy, she gets toy and brings toy back, we play tug with toy for a few seconds, I say "drop it", she drops it, I say "down", she downs, I throw toy...) She has fun and enjoys what we're doing, but it stays "low key" for her and she doesn't get over stimulated.

She's also not the kind of dog I would ever take to a dog park, because she does the same thing with other dogs. What starts out as play quickly turns in to something more and she gives only very subtle, quick warning signs before what was fun turns into something serious.

She's also a dog I had to get used to being handled. She has arthritis in her right back hip so she is very sensitive there and WILL bite if you hit her/bump her/pull on that leg. But for everything else, I would do X and then cram cat food in her face. Took her awhile, but she's much better about structured handling now and I can restrain her/groom her/etc. I still have to be very careful about the situation she is being handled in and her current mood, and I would definitely still I still manage her regarding her intolerance, but she's much better.
 

Barbara!

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#43
Thanks guys for all the advice. I'll definitely stop poking and prodding Baloo during tug, and I'll watch those videos. I also have the books on my list once we get another paycheck. (I need them for two dogs, anyways.) Baloo is barred from the dog park until further notice... I guess it's time to train him to run next to the bike... Which always ends up in me eating dirt once or twice... Lol.


Oh please.

Purebred APBT?? Who, Chevelle? LOL.
Kady, can you PLEASE explain the motivation behind this totally rude, and frankly condescending comment? I'd love to hear it!
 

monkeys23

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#44
I would quit taking him to the dog park until you get the behavior under control. Maybe quit taking him altogether.
I agree. Also do not leave him unsupervised with your Doxie and watch them closely together...

I'd also do some basic attention exercises to work on him looking to you instead of becoming fixated on tasty wee dogs in public.

It also sounds like you need to work on him being comfortable with you handling his feet and trimming his nails. At first Scout was like that... especially when I had to dig cheat out from between her fuzzy toes (thankfully with better food her coat no longer is a magnet for that crap) and that really upset my other girl who then wanted to protect me from Scout despite how gentle Scout was being. It was awkward. It took me over a year to work up to doing all four of Scout's paws at once, but it was worth the time it took to acclimate her so slowly because now its not a big deal. Susan Garrett and Sophia Yin both have videos on how to work on that stuff online. Kikopup probably does too for that matter. :)

Sounds like you guys need to work on him targeting his tug and not your hands. Its good to work toy rewards into OB training to work on the whole thinking while in drive thing and practicing targeting correctly.
 

Barbara!

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#45
I'm also going to go and buy a clicker today. Figure I'm going to have to eventually lol and the one I had when Chevelle was younger worked pretty well. I just didn't keep it up because she flinched at the noise more often than not and she didn't need it either way. I think it will help with Baloo because he responds a lot better to audible stimulus.
 

AdrianneIsabel

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#46
Barbara, do be careful. He's young and too much "forced" running can be dangerous. Also too much physical exercise can just create a monster of stamina and energy. What I'm saying is don't neglect the mental stimuli such as nosework, obed, flirt pole & control/obed, etc.
 

milos_mommy

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#47
If the clicker does startle him, you can always use a cue word or wrap it in fabric to muffle the sound....A lot of people like using a cue word but for some reason it always felt really hard and uncoordinated to me, I STRONGLY prefer a clicker.

Good luck with the biking, I'd actually be interested in following the process of teaching a dog to do that. I've never done it before.

You might also want to try a spring pole for exercise.
 

AdrianneIsabel

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#48
If you have a box clicker you can pierce it with a thumb tac to mute it supposedly. I've never tried it but I've seen it encouraged for dogs who are uncomfortable with the sound.
 

Barbara!

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#49
Chevelle is the one that didn't like it... I don't think Baloo has ever heard one. Lol. We will see.

I have taught both Chevelle and Malyk to run next to the bike and they do pretty well now. I've done it with Baloo once or twice (slowly) and he tries to drag the bike while being far ahead. So we will have to work on him learning where he should be (to the left of the bike) and to not just all out SPRINT. Lol. I'll be careful. I know young puppies shouldn't be exercised too hard because of their growth plates... But he runs at least a mile doing circles in my living room. Lol. He can do half a mile going down the street with me.
 

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#52
I strongly suggest using something like a "Walky dog" device on your bicycle vs. holding the leash in hand, or letting him run ahead. Unless he's trained to do bike-joring in which case he learned certain cues and directionals to deter him from distractions.

I really like the Walky dog, that's the one I use and it's fairly priced and easily detachable.
 

Barbara!

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#54
Yikes. That one kinda scares me because if they yank, they can just send me flying. I have been thinking about getting something like that, though.
 
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#55
Squash pulled the cord of our Walky Dog right out of the bar after using it only two or three times. It wasn't even while we were actually biking, it was when we were standing stopped and he just sort of jumped sideways. I like the Springer attachment better, personally.

Or teach him to bikejor. :D Training the commands can be some good mental exercise for him on walks until you actually put him in front of a bike. I highly recommend "Ski Spot Run" although it is written for skijorers, the advice on training commands is good for whatever urban mushing sport you prefer.


ETA: Adrianne, both of the bike attachments look to me like they will pretty much fit anything. They attach to the vertical bar under the seat so the type of bike doesn't seem to matter to my not-an-expert-on-bikes eye.
 

BostonBanker

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#56
I have the Springer attachment on my Mtn bike. I used it with Meg a few times, although she hated it so much I stopped. I was going to start trying it with Gusto now that he's almost 18 months, but my tire is dead.

It worked great though - I put the clip on a harness, and had her leash attached to her collar in my hand as back up.
 

Barbara!

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#57
Tried taking Baloo to Petco today to buy the clicker. That was a disaster. Lol. Oh well, I got the clicker and several packs of hot dogs so we as going to crack down.
 

Tazwell

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#58
On the contrary, holding the leash in your hand while biking is super dangerous. If the pulling is from under your seat, it's very difficult to throw you off balance, and it cannot affect your steering ability. All of the bicycle attachments have springs so that the shock of the pulling is absorbed, you can hardly feel it.

The springer is the best one I have found, but it was way out of my price range (upwards of $125 when I was shopping) and I've had the Walky dog ($35) for 3 years and have used it probably close to 100 times, with zero issues. But now, Sassafras, I've probably jinxed myself LOL!!

AdrianneIsabel, I use mine on a mountain bike, you can really put it on a few different places on the bike, but I think it's meant to be placed on the bar that is attached to your bike seat that slides up and down to adjust.
 

milos_mommy

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#60
If he's toy motivated, you could try to find a toy he likes a lot and use it as his super special only when training around other dogs and focusing on you toy.

That's what we used a cuz toy for with Milo. It was the only thing he thought was as high-value as screaming like a looney bin at other dogs.
 

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