REWARD MARKER VS "good dog".......

Dekka

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#82
so who is that.. you said that is your show?

Or are there multiple ppl on your show?
 

Saje

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#83
I'm so sorry. This is horribly off-topic and I know you are feeling ganged up on but I have to ask how you can recommend a dog food with this as it's ingredient list :yikes:

Chicken By-Products (Organs only, Including Chicken Liver), Chicken, Corn, Chicken By-Product Meal, Dried Beet Pulp, Brewers Dried Yeast, Cane Molasses, Egg Product, Salt, Sodium Propionate (a preservative), DL-Methionine, L-Lysine, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Riboflavin Supplement, Niacin, Biotin, Choline Chloride, Folic Acid, Thiamine Mononitrate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin B12 Supplement, D-Calcium Pantothenate, Manganous Oxide, Inositol, BHA (a preservative), Ferrous Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Cobalt Carbonate, Potassium Iodine, Sodium Selenite.
Your fan base looks to you for good recommendations and this is just ....

I strongly recommend you check out this site www.dogfoodproject.com if you want to learn about food ingredients and what makes a good pet food.

I just looked up the price. Over $40 for that :yikes:
 

Dekka

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#85
well I looked at doing the Super Dog thing, but felt that I couldn't due to it being sponsored by eukanuba.

I am very suprised that someone in the 'know' as much as you is promoting low quality foods!! I know they pay the bills, but do you HAVE to only promote them?
 

noludoru

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#86
Joel, I looked at your advertisement on Wikipedia, and searched Animal Planet. Both confirm that someone named "Joel Silverman" is, in fact the host of Good Dog U and that companions for life is your site... the AP clip of good dog u shows a rather pompous man in a yellow shirt teaching clicker training.. if that is not you, who is it and why is he on "your" show?
 

Saje

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#87
From what I've seen on youtube it looks like Joel is mostly the host and has guest trainers come in. but i've only seen a couple clips
 

Dekka

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#89
he says in that other thread he will answer all of our questions on training...so I too thought he was a trainer.

But if you are the host and in charge you can choose not to show people doing things wrong.
 
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#90
he says in that other thread he will answer all of our questions on training...so I too thought he was a trainer.

But if you are the host and in charge you can choose not to show people doing things wrong.
Based on his posts today, I don't think that he knows that it's being done wrong.
 

Dekka

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#91
Maybe, but I would think you would want to talk to someone who does clicker train before you put it on TV...
 

corgipower

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#94
What you did worked for you and for your dog but it is not recommended as a way of using a clicker. The principles of clicker training were not in place here, you were using the clicker incorrectly as a shaping tool....not that it didn't work but if we're talking about the science, then you made a choice to use the clicker in a different way.
Yes, it did work for me and my dog. It worked very well. And yes, I did make a choice to use the clicker in a different way. Keep in mind my original comment in the other thread ~ a very specific application with an advanced dog ~ and I never claimed that it was "clicker training".

I have ever been one to get into the science aspect of dog training. I train by feel, I train in the moment, it's all very fluid - almost like dancing. Much of what i do with my dogs can't be put into words.

Incorrectly? Nah...just differently. I have never claimed to do clicker training. I do use a clicker.

Question... would the "correct" use of a clicker here have been to require the dog into the position, NOT CLICK, and then click after a moment of the dog staying in one position? And then to increase the duration for the dog to remain in the position before clicking?
Well, except that the moment would have been gone. There was no way to build duration without some way of telling him that he was where he needed to be in order for him to maintain that position.

when i use a clicker, the click effectively marks the end of the behavior. i would simply not have clicked him immediately, since the behavior you were looking for was not "find the position" but rather "find the position and maintain it". then i would have gotten the behavior i wanted and not diluted the clicker.

i simply don't think it's fair to make the effort to teach the dog that click = reward and then withhold that reward. it just seems... dishonest i guess. varying rewards is important, and varying your schedule is important. there are plenty of other ways to give feedback to your dog that they're on the right track without using your reward marker.
Because I didn't teach the dog click = reward. I taught the dog click = that's correct. I taught the dog second click = reward. I taught him the meaning that I needed to use.

For a novice dog, shapping the behavior in small steps (approximations of behavior) will get you there.
This wasn't even close to a novice dog.

that's what I do when they've learned something. They get a "good[command]" and a scratch. I always treat after clicking though... I would feel like I was lying to her if I didn't! :p
By the time I could have gotten the word "good" out of my mouth he wouldn't still be good. The clicker was needed for the improved timing.
 

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#95
The meat of this conversation seems to centering around the very reason I put the below comment in the "101" thread:

Good topic. :)

I've found the words "clicker trainer" are not the same as "one who uses a clicker to train". The first is a belief system unto itself, and the other is part of a larger, and more "balanced" perspective.
Bob Bailey himself, who is one of the top animal trainers IMO, has stately very clearly in an interview that although he uses a clicker to train, he does not consider himself a "clicker trainer".

One is a specific belief system (sadly, cultish and evangelical in some circles) on how the clicker should be used, the other simply incorporates the clicker into a larger training philosophy, which is not as rigid.

:)
 

Dekka

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#96
Umm yes you can train duration with a clicker. ALL my dogs learn duration behaviours with clickers. Like heal and stay. I just withhold the click for longer and longer till the behaviour is as long as I want it to be (or within reason)

It might work for you, and thats great, but its not true you can't build duration and reward every click.
 
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#97
The meat of this conversation seems to centering around the very reason I put the below comment in the "101" thread:



Bob Bailey himself, who is one of the top animal trainers IMO, has stately very clearly in an interview that although he uses a clicker to train, he does not consider himself a "clicker trainer".

One is a specific belief system (sadly, cultish and evangelical in some circles) on how the clicker should be used, the other simply incorporates the clicker into a larger training philosophy, which is not as rigid.

:)
First, I agree that Bob Bailey really knows his stuff but the difference is that when he uses a clicker, he uses it based on the principles on which a reward marker was designed. You'll find that Bob Bailey uses the clicker the exact same way that everyone else who understands their use does.

Funny but while I also use a clicker to train, like most people I only use it for a small portion of any specific training. Does that make me a clicker trainer or a trainer who uses a clicker.:confused::D I don't really care which....all I care about is that I'm not fooling myself or any of my clients as to my understanding of the science or the appropriate applications of this simple yet powerful training tool.

Reward markers, clickers, whistles, words.....all work on the same, static principles. Some folks CHOOSE to incorporate the clicking sound into training without the SOUND principles of a reward marker and that's up to them, but lets not continue to compare apples to oranges.
 

Dekka

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#98
Here is an example of a 'stay' trained with a clicker..

For those of you who don't know horses lying down is NOT like it is for dogs. They are prey animals and feel very vulnerable in a downed position. I have owned horses that I never got anywhere near when they are down. Its a major sign of trust if a horse will stay down when you come up to it.. so to have a horse that will down on command (on set, at shows etc) is a really big deal.

And if your horse wont' lie down its not like you can push them to the ground and 'make' them either :D

http://chazhound.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86340
 
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#99
That's great Dekka!! Such a beautiful horse and yes, being able to establish that kind of trust, wonderful.

That's what is so fantastic about reward markers, you can train behaviors that are so contrary to an animals natural instinct without any stress at all.

Very much like training a giraffe to accept facial touching/rubbing for Vet. exam purposes or getting them to voluntarily walk into a squeeze. It's so against their very core nature but we're able to message, check eyes, teeth....big blue tongues:D

While it can certainly be done and has been done without reward markers (used as they were designed), the time it took was more than double and the trust came much more slowly.

Love that clip Dekka!!:)
 

Angelique

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I tend to put a NRM into the social (learning) communication catagory, and not part of "everything is operant conditioning".

Social learning can sometimes seem like indirect OC, where one being helps another acheive a reward (praise included), or avoid a punishment (danger), through another's knowledge.

This can happen through observation, direct communication, or associating a similar circumstance.

But then, I'm kinda weird. :D
 

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