Minding when distracted

Doberluv

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#81
I apologize for the length of this, but it's the only way I seem to be able to write out my thoughts. My only intention is to help you out in some small way.

I may have misinterpreted, but it sounds like your trainer will help with your dog greeting and playing with other dogs in class but is disouraging you from some other opportunities to meet and greet. One class a week is not enough. (take it from me and my first hand experience. I will never raise a puppy where I live again. It's too difficult to find enough other dogs around here to socialize amply. Human and objects etc, I had no problem with) Finding other dogs during the week to practice with in a controlled setting is important. Staying away from other dogs will not teach your dog how to meet and greet and "talk" to other dogs. It will make him all the more naive. Under socialization is not the answer. This is why dogs act this way. I had one myself and I know... it's not fun. There are ways to do this and still have control...to teach the dog that certain behavior allows meet and greet and certain behavior removes the posibility or (reinforcer).

I agree with Adojrts. She does not sound like a trainer too well versed in motivation and reward based training.

There was no clicker training, no treat training. Rewards came in praise and a loose leash
A loose leash is simply removing the former discomfort of a taut leash. What kind of reward (reinforcer) is that? I'd say, pretty a weak one.

In order for a dog to rule out other incidental behaviors that are happening at the same time...to stop guessing and start repeating the target behavior, the one you want, she MUST develop a histoy of ample reinforcement for the behavior. Reinforcers drive behavior. Cues do not. As it was said, (but I'll repeat) behavior reinforced raises the liklihood of it's being repeated in the future. The absense of a reinforcer or the presence of a punisher raises the liklihood that the behavior will not be repeated in the future.

A reward, in order to qualify as a reinforcer MUST pass the test of two requirements: #1) It must cause the behavior to change and #2) It must be something the dog LOVES, really, really LOVES. Most dogs love treats. But there are also other reinforcers; tennis balls, squeaky toys, rope toys, a game of tug, opening the door for a dog who's wanting to go outside in the worst way, putting the dinner bowl down for a dog who's hungry, letting a dog meet and greet another dog when he wants to play. That can be a reinforcer for calm behavior. It can be given and it can be taken away. You have control and the dog can learn self control and learn what behavior brings him the good stuff and what behavior doesn't. All organisms are constantly trying to get the good stuff and avoid the bad stuff. In dog training, bad stuff doesn't have to be added by us. But good stuff can be taken away. It causes less wear and tear on the dog that way, fewer side effects and is perfectly effective.

There are all kinds of reinforcers and food is usually very high on the list for a predator/scavenger. Especially a hungry one. A reinforcer is in the eye of the beholder. Praise, for a dog that gets collar corrections is better than getting a collar correction. So, they wag their tail and look happy. Praise and punishment rarely happen at the same time so praise becomes a predictor that no collar correction or stern voice is eminent. Praise is a marginal reinforcer, sometimes not a reinforcer at all and sometimes it is, it varies depending on the dog and the context, what has happened during the time prior. It depends on a lot of variables as to whether praise is adequate at any given time or context. In other words, it's a risk to rely on praise alone if you want to develop reliable responses from your dog.

No one says that you're cruel if you mildly scold your dog. It just isn't very effective. Mild scoldings are nagging and usually aren't enough to stop a behavior for the long haul. Dogs get habituated to mild forms of punishment, develop a "punishment callous." Dogs that get punished regularly tend to behave in the owner's presence, but not in his absense. There are other side effects as well that I won't go into here. (Dogs don't understand what humans think they understand sometimes, don't understand human morals. They're amoral. They don't undersand our system of values) Dogs are only obedient to the laws of learning.

Harsh scoldings are abusive and can cause shut-down in a dog, ("learned helplessness") which absolutely works against learning. Avoidance and aggressive behaviors can develop with even collar corrections in some dogs. Collar corrections in the presence of other dogs (for instance) can cause your dog to associate the other dogs with an unpleasant time and make your dog aggressive toward other dogs. If you give a correction for one particular behavior, the dog might not associate it with the behavior you intended and instead associate it with the kids riding bikes past you or the jogger and develop an aggressive or avoidance behavior in regard to them. Since we can never be sure what stresses the dog has already experienced on a given day, from her point of view....where she is in her stress- tolerance threshold, a correction that might not bother her one day may bother her a whole lot on another day or in another context.

Behavior is a science. Scientists and trainers have studied and observed all these things and a whole lot more. This is how they came up with motivation and reward methods and that phyiscal punishment is not needed to train a dog. This does not equal permissiveness....not at all. There are other means to achieve the desired results.

Peyton got her new cookies too for being well behaved but the main focus for us was establishing my role as pack leader and we worked on that in the walk.
Where does this come from? Pack leader. What do you do as a "pack leader" that trains your dog? Do pack leaders train other pack members to do things like not pull on a leash? What do domestic dogs do that is pack-like behavior? (not to be confused with social behavior) Do you know what specifically pack behavior is? See....personally, I along with a lot of other dog enthusiasts do not believe, since there is no evidence at all, that dogs truly are pack animals and furthermore, do not believe that dogs see us as conspecifics, which is a pre-requisit to a pack animal. I do believe that we can train our dogs and take care of them kind of like parents take care of kids. But dominance and force over them is not a facet that determines how our dogs behave. Training is. It's pretty much all about what you do with reinforcement, (very basically).

Some people say they use mostly positive reinforcement (which isn't really a very accurate description of motivation and reward training) and that they are "balanced" trainers. They use collar corrections and this and that also. The problem with that is that the dog begins to learn that working, complying, trying new behaviors often brings reward. That is his whole contingency, his whole world. Then a collar correction or mild ear pinch is sprinkled in. This changes the rules or contingencies mid stream and actually makes the positive methods less effective. It confuses the dog. They don't know whether or not to try something and you lose a lot of opportunities that he might just hit on a reinforceable behavior. His learning is reduced. There are other side effects to this "balanced" training that are too lengthy and this is already too long as it is.

This trainer doesn't use clicker training? That's okay. But why? Does she know how to use it, how extraordinarily effective and precise a communication tool it is? I think a trainer worth his/her weight ought to at least understand and be able to use the concepts of clicker training. And trainers that do, discover how truly remarkable it is and therefore do not feel a need to fall back or rely on physical punishment. When a trainer is effective with motivation and reward based methods, punishment is not needed because the things one is apt to punish a dog for are prevented from developing in the first place or can be modified or extinguished using all the tools available, which do not include things like yanking on their tracheas... and which you CAN learn too. :)

I hope everything goes well for you. There are a kazillion trainers out there but finding one that is worth a **** is another story.
 

JoeLacy

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#82
Hey Carrie, I'll try to digest all this later. :)

That's the problem, all these people give lip service to this and that. They are all **** experts and prey on people like me. EVERYONE has the definitive way and it cannot be done any other way than their method.

I'm just trying to get my puppy to be a good citizen, I do not plan on learning every conceivable nuisance or make a career out of this. I'm just one guy, with one dog that is out of control at times. Why is this so hard? Maybe because every time I buy into a method I am told it's wrong. Maybe I'll get a plastic goldfish instead but at this point I don't' feel like I could do that to suit anyone.

I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel, I'm not trying to crush the spirit of this wonderful pup. I don't want to spend a year to get a sit nor do I feel the need for a PHD from MIT. I'm just a guy that just wants a dog.

The danger for most at this point would be a total give up and just deal with it. I'm not going to do that of course, but me being lambasted every time I make a wrong move, is not positive training for me either. Where's my treat in all this? I deserve a treat for at least trying my *** off and instead I get an E-collar placed on me inside and place in an electrified fence. What that teaches me is be afraid of doing anything and sit and do nothing in decision paralysis.

I'm sick of the indecision, I'm sick of no direction and I'm groping for the right answers even today. I don't need every way to train a dog. I need ONLY one and only one that is effective.

I have spent an inordinate amount of time reading, researching, calling people and trying to decipher what is being said. It's getting very old and I'm loosing my enthusiasm and the more information I "try" to gleem from all the input, the more confused I get. I feel like I am being given the "sit heel stay go" command all at the same time.

I don't mean to take this out on anyone but understand I'm trying the best I know how. I appreciate everyones input, but from lay persons standpoint it's a bit overwhelming in the first place, then add everyones contradictory comments and it's a recipe for frustration at best for both the pup and I, and mental and physical damage at worse to the pup.

I keep reading/hearing such ambiguous statements like, "There is no right or wrong way to train a dog and it's often depending on the dogs personality." Well, that certainly helped clarify things. Thanks for the brain freeze.

The good new is, I will be out of the office today. I will make no progress but I will do no harm or inflame people of this board. I'm stuck once again on hold and my rant is finally over.
 

Doberluv

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#83
That's the problem, all these people give lip service to this and that. They are all **** experts and prey on people like me. EVERYONE has the definitive way and it cannot be done any other way than their method.

I don't think anyone, myself included was preying on you. Preying would indicate that there was something in it for us. Like when an animal preys on another, it's for the purpose of eating. That is not the case. I think people are just trying to help you with information.

"There is no right or wrong way to train a dog and it's often depending on the dogs personality."
That is indeed a common and incorrect line of garbage. There are plenty of wrong ways. No wonder that gives you a brain freeze.

I don't want to spend a year to get a sit nor do I feel the need for a PHD from MIT
And you don't have to. There are a lot of owners and trainers here who have good success with their dogs without having done all that. The more you learn, the better. But you can most certainly make a huge dent in tackling training tasks by simply learning some basics to start and then little by little adding a bit more here and there. If you learn the very basic concepts of learning behavior, you, an intelligent person can apply those concepts and figure out for yourself what needs to be done. It's not like you have to learn a million individual remedies for every behavior problem.

The danger for most at this point would be a total give up and just deal with it. I'm not going to do that of course, but me being lambasted every time I make a wrong move, is not positive training for me either. Where's my treat in all this? I deserve a treat for at least trying my *** off and instead I get an E-collar placed on me inside and place in an electrified fence. What that teaches me is be afraid of doing anything and sit and do nothing in decision paralysis.

I'm sick of the indecision, I'm sick of no direction and I'm groping for the right answers even today. I don't need every way to train a dog. I need ONLY one and only one that is effective.
I hear your frustration and anger. And I don't blame you. But I don't see where anyone has lamblasted you. No one was rude or unkind, were they? I certainly and genuinely was trying to help by showing you some concepts and how beneficial knowing what you're doing can be. That is what you are searching for, I think. To stop flailing around with indeciveness and get some answers that work. When you find out that something works, that will be your reward. But be careful in how you define "works." Think about what you really want. I see you as wanting a well mannered and happy dog and a good relationship, not some fancy schmancy, highly trained trick dog. And that's just fine. That's pretty much all I want in my dogs these days too. But all dogs do need some training to live harmoniously with humans.

Where is the reward for you in all that? The reward in spending a little time learning the concepts of operant/classical conditioning based methods, (because that is not just an opinion, it is a fact that all animals, including us learn by those rules and there are a few specific applications where dogs are concerned) even if you only learn the early basics to get you started is....an effectve and pleasant way to train your dog, (that's something you want, right?) a closer relationship and bond with your dog because your dog becomes an actve participant in her education, more of a partner than an employee, more like pals doing something together rather than one being "obedient" to another. I can't tell you the difference in my relationship with my dogs now in comparison to past dogs where I did use more compulsive type training. It's something you have to experience for yourself. THAT is the reward.

No one is purposely trying to confuse, berate you or cause you to lose enthusiasm. It's usually just the opposite here. Everyone is sharing in your enthusiasm in getting your dog and you on an even keel....and getting caught up in trying desperately to give you a little help from their own experiences and knowledge. So, try to put things back into perspective and if it helps you to back off and figure things out yourself, then do it that way. Love and understand your dog, learn a little bit and keep your expectations reasonable for this other species and I'm sure things will fall into place. Good luck. Sorry that all this was perceived as no help to you.

For what it's worth, I think you're doing great. You obviously love your dog and want what's best for her. You're doing more than a lot of people do....trying to find some answers because you know that knowelge empowers you....trying to seek out a good trainer to help you. This is fantastic. All that is needed is a little fine tuning IMO in regard to what trainer you end up spending the most time with. Don't lose your enthusiasm or be discouraged by all the chaos you're feeling right now. That's just par for the course when you're making any change. That will all level out soon and your good efforts will be rewarded. :)
 
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lizzybeth727

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#84
Ok, Joe, I think it's time for a recap of the last 11 days this thread's been open and the 9 pages of discussion. I'm a little confused now about what you came here looking for answers about and what you still need help with. So, in one sentence answers, if you could respond:

1. How long have you had your puppy now?

2. What are your future goals with your puppy?

3. In what time frame do you want these goals to be reached?

4. What do you need a trainer to help you with?

5. Describe your ideal trainer.

6. Describe your ideal training class (group/private, size, etc.)

I think all of us have gotten a little side tracked in this thread, and the answers to these questions will help us get back on topic and help you where you actually want help.
 

Jynx

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#85
Joe, this won't make me popular, but I just wanted to say,,if you like this trainer, if you like the results you've started to see, (and if it ain't killin or abusing your dog which I know is the last thing you would do:)) and you like the class,then I would continue on..

Go with your gut. and keep us updated. :)))
Diane
 

JoeLacy

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#86
Ok, Joe, I think it's time for a recap of the last 11 days this thread's been open and the 9 pages of discussion. I'm a little confused now about what you came here looking for answers about and what you still need help with. So, in one sentence answers, if you could respond:

1. How long have you had your puppy now?
3 weeks

2. What are your future goals with your puppy?


3. In what time frame do you want these goals to be reached?


4. What do you need a trainer to help you with?


5. Describe your ideal trainer.


6. Describe your ideal training class (group/private, size, etc.)
I agree.

1. 3 weeks
2. Earn the Canine Good Citizen Award
3. 16 weeks
4. Etiquette/ Basic obedience/ Her self control
5. One who shows me in real time, so I can train my dog on my own.
6. Group, small to mid size, within 30-45 minutes of my home
 

JoeLacy

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#87
It took me an hour today in Petsmart to get her to calm down. Even though the dogs were behind the glass, I felt like I had climbed Everest when I took these two photos. This may not seem like much to many, but it was a milestone for her. Peyton was down on command and holding it.



 

lizzybeth727

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#88
I'm happy to hear that your puppy did so well by the end of the extra-long session. I'm concerned, though, because I thought your trainer said:
The trainer said she is highly dog driven. Stay away from other dogs until I get better control. Don't set her up to fail. If I see another dog while we are out, go in the other direction for now. Peyton will learn how to act around other dogs in the class and needs socialization more than play time with dogs.
The method that I'm presuming you used was "flooding": Keep her in the stressful situation long enough until she either gets used to it (good) or becomes exhausted (very bad). Flooding is a legitimate training technique, but even the most successful trainers only use it in rare instances and only suggest it to be practiced while the trainer is there.

I'm also concerned about this: your goal for your puppy is the CGC (nice goal), but you want it done in 16 weeks. This is a very lofty goal for an adult dog in this same situation (recently adopted), but it's compounded by the fact that your puppy will not even be a year old by that point. You have not even begun going through puppy adolescence, the most difficult time (training-wise) of a dog's life. Adolescence usually lasts several months, and occurs when the puppy is between about 7-14 months.

I believe now is the right time for me to bow out of this thread.
 

JoeLacy

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#89
See what I mean? Someone in this thread told me TO take her around dogs and desensitize her and that other trainer was all wrong. No matter what I do, it's wrong. It may be time for me to bow out as well, I'm getting nowhere but just in case anyone cares to know... I tried something different today. That's why it took an hour.

I thought about how I got her in the car the very first time to bring her home. That took some time too, she had never been in a car before and would not get in. So, I took bits of hotdogs and lured her in 6" at a time into the floor board. That was the day I picked her up from the pound. It's not that way today, she will run over me to jump in my car. She loves it and I love having her with me.

So, today, I did something similar. I took her to the point where she saw the dogs and got excited, then backed off the point that she would make eye contact again. If she lost focus I would take her behind an obstruction, let her focus on me, click/treat her and when she was calm again, I took her back out the the spot where she failed. Each time I did that and saw her eye contact at the point she had failed previously, we got about 6" closer the next time. That toys on the floor was another thing, she pulled that off the shelf and was playing with it admist all those dogs that were having rec time. I took baby steps, 6" at a time and eventually she got to the glass. No tugging, no pulling, no popping. little yelping and whining and in a down/stay on a loose leash. She can do this, but I have to take it 6" at a time. Her reward was she got it get close, if she acted up I would remove her. Call it want you want but I saw some results and the only one that was exhausted from all this was ME.
 

Maxy24

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#90
See what I mean? Someone in this thread told me TO take her around dogs and desensitize her and that other trainer was all wrong. No matter what I do, it's wrong. It may be time for me to bow out as well, I'm getting nowhere but just in case anyone cares to know... I tried something different today. That's why it took an hour.
Please don't bow out :) I have not read the whole thread but only some of it. i agree with Doberluv, you dog needs the socialization and time to meet other dogs or else she will loose her chance at learning good social skills.

Lizzy is thinking your trainer had you do the work with the dogs behind the glass in which case she would be contradicting herself (because she said no more dogs!). You did not say if you did it with the trainer or on your own so I think that confused her.

I'm sure the reason many people, including myself, don't really like your trainer is because she is against the use of treats and because she appears to be using compulsive methods like leash popping which I am personally very against. I'm VERY glad you worked at petsmart with the dogs through the glass, perhaps that is the perfect first step, the dogs are always there and no other owner to get frustrated with you. plus that means you can work with JUST sight and maybe some sound of other dogs, the dog is not tempted by as much as if the dog were out in the open. I know doing it the positive way seems to take longer but also keep in mind the dog is likely to remember the training better after a quick recap and the dog is not being taught the sight of other dogs earns painful punishment. If during raining you or the dog get frustrated (look for her giving calming signals like a lot of yawning, avoiding eye contact, licking lips etc.) go take a break in a calm section of the store.
I would try to go back and practice this as many times as possible. I would still make sure she is meeting and interacting with dogs though but really drop the requirements for that. Maybe try and get her to do ONE thing to go meet a dog, you can start with a sit or even a "look at me" and then give her the release command to go meet even if she goes up wild and rudely.

Once you are successful with a calm and focused approach to the dogs behind the glass you can start practicing with dogs in a (human) park. Practice without the dog's owner even realizing it until the dog actually does what you ask then ask the owner if you can meet their dog. If she says no Still do something super fun with Peyton, give a treat and maybe run like the wind if she enjoys that or play a game.

one thing I would stop doing, personally, is setting goals with a time. Set goals like getting a CGC but don't put an amount of time to it like you would for your own goals. With dog related goals there is another mind involved who may not be in agreement with your time limit and may take much more time. Setting a time can make things frustrating and disappointing and can make you angry with your dog. Just work at it and see when it happens.

Good Luck :D Please do stick around though even if you discontinue this thread, everyone will have their own opinions which does make things difficult, but we really do have a lot to offer.
 

JoeLacy

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#91
I'll stay around and we'll get things sorted out. I didn't mention that I called that trainer yesterday. The one that everyone hates.:)

I expressed my concern and told her I was not comfortable popping the dog and if that was a requirement, that I would not be attending. She agreed that if this training model did not fit my goals we would train only on a flat collar. I'll keep an eye on this. I didn't feel the need to explain myself here in this thread but I have put the trainer on notice and I have shifted my training goals to new objectives.

My objective for this class NOW is to extrapolate "useful" information that meets my criteria. While I would like to follow a trainer/training method in it's completion and hopefully through varies levels, this may not be workable with this trainer. So what I will do is go, take Peyton, listen and learn and use the other dogs there as a socialization tool. If I get anything out of it, time will tell but as long as I do no harm, it's just another social gathering for her and it may be only that. That's fine, Peyton and I have PLENTY of time. This jst gives Peyton and I another "date night."

Let me clarify, I was alone at Petsmart, I had some time to kill and went looking for a new "ladylike" collar for her. We just happened upon that scene and I thought I would see if I could make some headway. I did actually, but it was no-ones else idea other than mine and no trainers were around. I was so proud of her. We got there but it was never about pinning her to the glass and forcing her to calm down. Baby steps and at her own pace.

What the trainer said about going around other dogs seemed to make sense to me. But then I don't know anything abut dog training so I'm subject to buy into wrong information. That's the danger in all this. What I do know is my dog and what I have seen. Let me take a quick step back as to what I have learned about this puppy.

This pup had ZERO socialization when I picked her up, never seen a Tennis ball, ran up to total strangers, jumping, never been on a leash, never been in car, I think I have said, she acted like she had never seen a bird. That's where I started but all that has changed and in large part to my flooding her. (I hate that word and will not use it again) We've now been and done more things in the last 3 weeks than she has done in all her lifetime before. She has met 100's of people and seen 1000's of speeding cars, clanking things, anything that blwso in the breeze, honking trucks and so on. She's been to crafts fairs, even a rock concert. She used to want to chase bicycles and joggers so we sat near a bike paths for nearly 1/2 day. She has ZERO interest now in chasing them. She has been desensitized to many people in all sizes and colors and "things" at this stage, except other dogs. I have never pinned her and made her accept, I have always encouraged her to take her own pace at being confined. If she spooks, we move back until the point she is calm.I take it at her pace now mine.

Here's another example where this has paid off. Last night we were out for a walk. We practiced the Heel up next to a wall for a few minutes, then we took off to less restricted areas. She was going great! We walked to Starbucks and there were many people sitting outside. She walked straight, never even glanced towards the people and not once, but 5 times back and forth, we were weaving in and out of tables, stopping, starting and she only would give them a passing glance if at all. Now remember, this is a puppy that "was" so distracted BEFORE that she would pull my arm off at the very sight of a new personto meet. She didn't do that last night and I believe it's because of the socialization. I wish I would have videoed it, it was just plain awesome. She was totally in control of herself and not tug on the leash could be felt :)

So this begs the question, is more dogs good and is that trainer wrong about her approach with my dog? Peyton responds to desensitizing. I have seen it first hand and have consistent data to back that up. She a completely different dog today than 3 weeks ago. As a matter of fact, I got my first comment on her behavior yesterday from a Petsmart store customer. The lady said, " I wish my dog was that well behaved." CLEARLY progress IS being made and at a number of different levels that are actually too numerous to list here.

On my goals, I don't even know what the Canine Good Citizen award is, I read something briefly about it and it sounded great. If it takes 6 weeks or 16 years I have no clue. What I do want as her goal is for her to be a "good citizen", I don't care if she gets a ribbon, a plaque or anything else. I'm not in this for my glory, it's ALL about Peytons well being. All I REALLY want is to get her into a BASIC obedience class that is positive and that may be all she ever needs. I don't want a robot dog, I want a reasonably well behaved and dog that is happy, healthy, care free and in control of herself. I think this goal is obtainable with patience while understanding the motivational and historical data of this pup. If we get there in a day or it takes years, I don't really care, but I want to start the journey as soon as possible. Unless you take a first step down the road, you'll never get to your destination and she's close to 7 months old now and it should have already been started.

This puppy is happy with her new life, no more concrete floors, instead a feather bed. She eats the best food money can buy. Her treat are made and baked by me. She goes almost everywhere with me. She receives so many belly rubs, I'm surprised she has any hair left. Her collar is so loose, she can almost slip out of it. ( she has a scar on her neck, which may have been an embedded collar). We walk in the city, we walk in the woods, I live 10 minutes from the worlds greatest dog park where she can meet and play with the same dogs day after day and all the owners know each dog by name. I'm not about to do anything harmful to this dog, now or forever or go backwards in her socialization knowingly.
 

Doberluv

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#92
Exactly Maxy. Desensatizing was something I did mentioned in my post. Joe, you're making this out to be way, way, way more complicated than it really is. You're getting yourself into a tizzy over little things. If you're in a state of fight or flight yourself, you can't use the thinking part of your brain and you're just running off of emotions. The whole point of having a dog is to have fun. Training should be an enjoyable experience for both dog and owner. If you're all uptight, that is going to sabotage the whole thing. Relax. Learn a few basic concepts and a few basic skills to get going. As you need help, you can get help. But not if you bite the hands that feed you. So, calm down and take what you are given. Digest it. Use some of your own intuition and common sense and play/train with your dog. Training should be a game, not a drudgery and you're making it out to be some serious thing in your own mind.

A person can't be a rote learner and be a very good trainer. You have to use some of your own judgment, be creative, imaginative. And you can't do that if you don't learn some concepts. You can learn how to teach a few particular skills by rote, but behavior is not static and training dogs is so full of variables that just learning by rote will trip you up a lot. Explaining reinforcers is why I got what was called, "side tracked." (I think) Your trainer is against treats and uses leash corrections to punish. I felt it necessary to explain about reinforcers so you could get the concept of how dogs learn (hardly what I'd call off topic) and see why they are so very important.

Flooding is a term used to mean that the object of a dog's fear, the thing that is causing him to be terrified or aggressive...balistic is in close proximatey to the dog, to force him to "put up" and "shut up." Or rather, "shut down." He realizes there is no escape so he gives up the fight. This is putting a dog into a state of what's called learned helplessness. And it is not a good place to be for anyone. It's very stressful and keeping a dog in a highly stressful state is not healthy and he learns to be more comfortable this way than a normal, happy way. (sick logic)

Concern about flooding is pretty irrelevant in your dog's case. From what I gathered in your post, your dog is not afraid or aggressive. She wants to play and go see members of her own species in the worst way. Naturally. If you were stuck somewhere with some other species that couldn't speak English, wouldn't you want to talk to the humans you saw 20feet away?

She doesn't know how to control herself and be "polite." Your pictures show to me a dog who is quite relaxed and happy (in the 1st picture) and quite relaxed and interested (in the 2nd picture). This is not a dog that you have to worry about being thrown into learned helplessness on account of up close and personal. (from what I get from you via the Internet...without seeing the dog in person) So, flooding is irrelevant. I think taking her to the pet store was just fine. She isn't anxious or upset, is she?

What isn't irrelevant is that she apparently needs some manners so that she doesn't tick off other dogs that might not appreciate her gusto. She needs to learn from them what is socially acceptable dog behavior and what isn't. You took a small facet of my post and ran with it. I did mention desensatizing and I did mention a controlled setting. That means you control who, when, where and how she meets and greets other dogs.

Here's another effective way to help her learn: Her behavior dictates how she meets and greets. When you take her around other dogs, take her around dogs you know to be tolerant of puppy antics, not just any dog. You don't want her to have some dog who is pissy about an older puppy jumping all over them and get her attacked. You don't want her to have bad experineces. If a dog gets mildly "grrrrrr", that's okay. That teaches her something as long as she isn't a shrinking violet. Ask someone to help you. Hand pick the dogs you work with. Talk to friends or co workers or people you meet with dogs. Set up times and situations, contexts (low distractions...keep her less frazzled). Make a plan. Every day, if possible. Puppy classes are a great way to get practice as long as there is some control.

When approaching a dog, go toward the dog in an arc, not head on. If she pulls and gets excited on the leash in her enthusasm to meet the dog, immediately turn and go back on the path you just took. Immediately. Timing is everything. That roudy behavior removes the posibility for a reinforcer...getting to see or play with the dog. Try again. Repeat until she walks nicely toward the other dog. In this case where she is just dying to be sociable, getting to visit, sniff, play IS the reinforcer. You don't have to use treats. She's probably less interested in treats than she is in visiting in this case. I wouldn't expect perfection and wouldn't remove her for a little roudiness. Watch for improvement and reinforce that. Then later, up the ante.

Another way to help her is to find a friend with a tolerant, calm dog and go for a walk together, side by side with the humans in the middle and the dogs on the outside. This is a great way to help her learn how to act civilized around other dogs. Walking is a favorite thing to do. She's associating another dog with a great time and a calm time. They're not facing each other, not directly interacting, but on "cooperative-like mission."

If I misunderstood about your dog's behavior from your posts. If she is terrified or anxious, upset around other dogs, then more desensatizing would be in order. The book, Click to Calm, by Emma Parsons is a great one to show you how. Keeping her away from other dogs will frustrate her more than ever...if it is the case that she loves them and wants to play.

I hope your attitude changes and that you realize that this doesn't have to be the serious, anxious thing you're making it out to be. Try to have fun. You might enjoy clicker training. Have you read about that? It's a barrell of fun.

If you choose to reject, stomp your feet and slam doors when people are only trying to offer you the gift of help, that isn't a very effective way of ensuring you continue to get the help you were asking for.
 

Doberluv

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#93
Well, I was typing that post while yours got posted. So, I missed it. And mine probably is of no use to you. It sounds like you're making good headway. The socialization is great and so necessary. As long as she is happy and not feeling subdued in those situations where she's close to unfamiliar things, that's great. Be sure to associate being near novel things with a good time, lots of praise and tasty treats. Throw her a party when her state of mind is happy and healthy. Good luck.
 

smkie

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#94
IF you keep at it your going to have a dandy dog. A lot of work in the beginning gives you a long life of total enjoyment.

As to trainers i have seen decades of them at field trials and all i can say is every one thing thinks that their way is the correct way. You have to weed through and find what is right for you and your dog. Each is different in their needs. Don't take any one as gospel, but sift through and find what you think will work for your dog's needs.

I do most of my training on the street. THe more distractions the better. My pointer was a high strung flightly spaz of a creature when i first got him. It took daily short lessons for about a year and then as he stretched from one to two longer lessons with different goals.

I think goals are the most important of all for us it was the PEts for Life therapy test...Good Canine Citizen is just an awesome one to reach for. Good LUCK! I am sure you will do just fine.
 

Doberluv

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My Dobe was a spaz too. I think he was around 2 or 3 when he finally was certified civilized. It took a couple of years till he was ready for his CGC. He was also very dog reactive and it was a real process for him to show any improvement of significance. He was, however very good in class settings. Goals are good, but if you are too focused on the goals, be sure you don't miss out on the enjoyment of the journey. Learning is a process for anyone, dogs included. Most things take time. It's imperative that you both have fun.

Smkie. I agree. He will do just fine. Anyone who is even half conscious and desirous of having a well mannered dog is apt to want to learn and apply. The out of control older dogs are usually owned by people who do nothing right and aren't very interested. Dogs are amazing creatures....they're really quite resilliant.
 

JoeLacy

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#96
Dob, she is not aggressive or afraid of other dogs. One time at the dog park, I saw her get a little out of control with a dog what wasn't having it. The grumpy dog growled at her and she went to the ground and FROZE. She got the message and went into submissive mode is my guess. The grumpy one did not press his point, she got the message and life went on. This told me that perhaps she had a "part" of the doggy language and understood when he said no, he meant it. I was actually happy to see that (although my heart stopped for a second) but my guess was that she has "some" dog social skill that could keep her out of fights. Of course when grumpy left, it was party on with the other dogs. This was a huge Akika and frankly the Park bully as I watched him more. Not a huge fan of this dog but I saw some sense of a pack order with Peyton.

Sometimes shy and cautions and around new things though and everything seems intensely interesting. This could be that she was so sheltered all her life. For example, some workman are roofing a house next door this morning. They have an air compressor running and sitting on the street. She heard it and walked over very cautiously on her own. A nail gun went off and she jumped. I would have done the same thing but she did go over to it on her own. She is cautious but intensely curious about ALL things.

She does not do this with other dogs, all dogs and there is no caution, she runs to any dog anywhere. It's all "Hey HEY HEY, Let's PLAY. wanna play Huh? Huh? Huh? How about it, let's play!!!" and she is in their face, bouncing off the wall. Uber happy for the chance to meet and play with other dogs. ZERO aggression that I have seen.

Other distractions could be anything, a leaf on the ground, a car door shutting. Without distractions she is nearly rock solid in "Look at Me." Even the slightest distractions she will not re-focus on me or my commands until I remove her from the distraction. Even then it takes some period of time for her to make eye contact again. The small distractions I can deal with but the excitement level to meet other dogs is her weak spot. If she somehow got off the leash she would run across the interstate to meet and greet. Not good, not safe.

If you guys say so, I'll redo the petsmart glass training thing a few more times. Then move up to letting her meet other dogs but not head on. What does seem clear is that this is a slow process and my patience, timing and consistency is key. She can do it as I saw yesterday.

She is never subdued by me or forced to face her fears. As a matter of fact, sometimes when she is really unsure, she hides behind me. I am a tree in that case and let her come out to investigate on her own and only when SHE feels comfortable. The last thing I want to do, is have her loose confidence or force my will on her. She is a thinking type of dog, so I let her do her thinking at her own pace, forcing anything is not my style.

I'm trying to do the right thing here and we do play more than we train. I think she is happy here and I'm certainly happy to have her. She's already the world's greatest dog in my eyes and we have only just begun.
 

Doberluv

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#97
She sounds perfect and completely normal. She's a puppy and puppies are often very exuberant and it is a process to end up with a civilized adult dog. And you sound like the perfect doggie owner. Keep doing what you're doing.

Here are some things to read that can assist in channelling behavior:

http://www.dragonflyllama.com/ DOGS/Levels/LevelBehaviours/TL26Zen.html

http://www.clickertraining.com/node/1721

This is one of the most important skills that your dog can learn. (a rock solid stay is another one) As you said, running toward a competing motivator, across the street if she gets out is a terrifying visual. It takes practice and you can never be 100% trusting in your dog to obey. They are animals, not robots. But the more you get this perfected (over time...years)...the better.

http://www.clickertraining.com/node/309

When your pup learns the basic obedience skills, those become tactics for you to use to replace unwanted behaviors. If she's about to do something obnoxious, ask for one of the tasks she's learned. For example, one day, my Doberman was charging across my acreage after another dog. He appeared to be serious and very scary. I was a couple hundred feet away, up on my porch. I hollered to him, "Lyric, halt!" And he stopped dead in his tracks. I then yelled out to him, "Down!" He dropped to a down and stayed there until I came with a leash. We had practiced these things for a couple years. He was good at them in all kinds of locations and contexts....just not this one. (It turned out later that he acted like that when a strange dog got into my pasture, but then he didn't do anything after all...just stopped 20 feet or so before getting to the dog and stood there and stared....the wuss. LOL.)
 

JoeLacy

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#98
Thanks for the links, I will read those later, I just cooked her an egg, and we're going out to play today. We'll probably go to a festival or something and drop the intensity a bit. She's made awesome progress in 3 weeks considering she started with the knowledge base of a 6 week old puppy. She is puppy after all, and I would not want to take away even one minute of her puppyhood. We just need to have some rules set so she can make it to adulthood. That's really all I'm asking for and really it's not unlike any good dad would want for their human child. Be free, be happy but be polite and safe are my generic goals for her. She'll understand only when I understand how to communicate with her. How she emotionally grows will be in direct proportion to the time and quality I spend. She's capable of learning, if I'm capable of teaching. The responsibility is not hers to learn but mine to teach at a level she's capable of grasping. It's not that I'm not willing to teach, it's the mechanics that I'm having a difficult time grasping. If an adult human doesn't understand, how in the world can I expect a puppy to do better? If I understand this, then Peyton has room for error. It's funny, I look at her sometimes and feel I should be apologetic. "I'm sorry sweety, I confused you, my bad."

I have a saying that I have said to my son every year of his life.
"My worst day with you is still better than my best day at the beach". I feel something similar with Peyton and everyday, I say to myself at least once "WOW...what a great dog."

Peyton and I are going to go play barefoot in the grass now 'cause I'm just a puppy too.
 

Doberluv

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Well, that sounds wonderful. One thing my breeder kept repeating to me before I got my puppy is something I have never forgotten. Somehow it made a deep impression on me. That was: "Let your puppy be a puppy." I'm so glad you're enjoying her and have those sentiments. It's so easy to get frustrated and sometimes lose our patience. We can feel like we're not connecting because we don't speak the same language. It can be very difficult and confusing to not only our dogs, but to us too. That is why learning the mechanics as you worded it are so helpful. To learn some of the science of learning behavior is to learn to communicate with your dog in a way she can understand. It is finding a common language between two species, so to speak. So I hope you do lots of reading and you'll just absorb so much. It won't feel like a big chore because I bet you'll find those things interesting. The more you read and practice, the closer your bond will be. You'll get to be such a good trainer. And those things she can and should learn are going to help with behavior in a general sense too. To exercise her mind, to work with you will turn her away from rotten behavior and sinful ways. Just like they say, "the idle mind is the devils playground" ...that pertains to dogs too. LOL.
 

JoeLacy

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Just like they say, "the idle mind is the AUSSIES playground"
Aussies don't entertain themselves very well. Oh, they do just fine, but the owners usually don't like their chosen play toys or the aftermath.

We had a pretty busy day today. I spoke to another trainer and we discussed the dog park. What she said may have made the most sense yet. Basically she said that her stance was never sacrifice what a dog does for fun for the sake of training, if that fun is not harmful to the dog or the training. She said if Peyton had a nipping issue the dog park might not be best because that's what they do there. She does not have a nipping issue. So, wanting to make Peyton happy, we went off to the dog park. But this time with a focus training twist.

I would not let her get out of the car until she was calm. When she got out of the car and started to pull towards the gate, I would make her sit, if she didn't sit, I moved her back and we started again. We did that all the way up to the gate. Once inside the vestibule, I made her sit again. She was not going to be set loose to run with the dogs until she listened to me. She wasn't please about all this delay, but she got her way and got in and she got rewarded with treats at the entrance into the dog park. She did well at the dog park same old Peyton, RUN RUN RUN get wet, get muddy, run run run. One a side note: This puppy is F-A-S-T, in one all flat out race for a tennis ball she was faster than this full grown lab.

While at the dog park, I tried to call her and work on focus. I got limited success but she did come on occasion. When I was ready to leave, I walked over to the gate and called her from across the park. She raced over to me, I clicked/treated and we left. She got some dog park and I got some focus training in. Win/Win

The next stop was Petco. She walked much better today. Not as frantic, it felt good. She saw some dogs and was interested but not as interested as the day before. I let her get close to other dogs but only when she would sit. Each time she lost complete focus we would back off until she would sit for me. I think her little butt is probably sore from all the sitting but she was not going to get her way until I got mine. She did good in Petco, not great and we moved on to the rest of our day.

Across the street from the Petco was a free concert was going on in a field so we went to check it out. We mixed and mingle and met a few people. Now, this was really cool.. I was talking to this guy about her. People are always asking me, commenting etc so it's a great icebreaker. He asked me if she was smart, I said yes, this is a smart breed. He said does she rollover? I said nope, but watch this. I looked at Peyton and said "down". She flopped like a ragdoll to the ground. That in itself was not remarkable but considering there people all around and VERY loud music going on, it really impressed both of us. "@@" I had no idea she would do it with the mega distractions, but she did. She laid there quietly only getting up for a pet on the head every now and then. She was the perfect dog. The guy was so impressed by her at the end of 15 minutes, he's looking to get an Aussie now.

We went to Starbucks and met a friend of mine, she sat and did "pretty" good but not great. She got bored and a little rowdy at the end. It was feeding time and she wasn't really into the conversation, so we came home and I fixed her dinner. She's snoozing in her favorite chair on her back right now. Life is good.

So, what did today tell me?

1. The dog park may have been a good thing. At Petco right after the DP, she was much more reserved around other dogs. It could be she needs desensitizing to other dogs not isolation.

2. If I stay with this "be calm or you're not going anywhere" thing she may get the message.

3. She's can focus around really bad live music and she gets bored with guys talking about cars.

It was another good day.
 

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