Roxy was raised with choke collars and now has a regular collar. When she is in a particular mood I will put a choker on her just for the day and its enough to remind her that I will go back on her training if neccisary. But im also 8 and a half months pregnant and a 50 pound pulling boxer is not the funnest to walk lol
There is a harness on the market that is guaranteed to stop any dog from pulling. Comes in 4 different sizes. I've used it and believe me it works. I put it on our Pyrnees who loved to pull and the first time he tried it he stopped dead in his tracks. It causes no discomfort or pain of any kinds. It simply works. Here is the website for more info:
http://www.sporn.com/product_info.php?products_id=28
http://www.sporn.com/product_info.php?products_id=28
OK here my advice-
Use the pinch collar/choke chain. Have him at heel, then start off with your right foot commanding "heel" If he moves out in front, pull back into position commanding "heel" again, when you stop, stop using left foot, command "heel" as you stop, then command "sit" and praise him. Repeat. The best way to teach is by conditioning or in other words go on a 15 minute walk doing this process throughout. Do this daily until he gets it, and from then on, only expect 110% compliance on "heel" if hes no compliant pull back and command heel.
Also you may want to invest in a heeling stick. Using this, command heel, if he goes out in front, tap his chest, this will automatically cause him to reheel to turn off the pressure. Keep the stick over your shoulder so you already have a good swing and he will get it out of nowhere because he does not see it coming until he has moved out in front. This usually takes one to two sessions before he complies.
Halters in my opinion only do harm in obedience, they should only be used if the dog has successfully completed ALL obedience commands and is well socialized, and ignores distractions. IE an older well trained dog. If there is no pressure the dog will only fight you and you'll end up popping pain relievers from the headache.
Good luck.
-Dix
Use the pinch collar/choke chain. Have him at heel, then start off with your right foot commanding "heel" If he moves out in front, pull back into position commanding "heel" again, when you stop, stop using left foot, command "heel" as you stop, then command "sit" and praise him. Repeat. The best way to teach is by conditioning or in other words go on a 15 minute walk doing this process throughout. Do this daily until he gets it, and from then on, only expect 110% compliance on "heel" if hes no compliant pull back and command heel.
Also you may want to invest in a heeling stick. Using this, command heel, if he goes out in front, tap his chest, this will automatically cause him to reheel to turn off the pressure. Keep the stick over your shoulder so you already have a good swing and he will get it out of nowhere because he does not see it coming until he has moved out in front. This usually takes one to two sessions before he complies.
Halters in my opinion only do harm in obedience, they should only be used if the dog has successfully completed ALL obedience commands and is well socialized, and ignores distractions. IE an older well trained dog. If there is no pressure the dog will only fight you and you'll end up popping pain relievers from the headache.
Good luck.
-Dix
How do you know if your dog is going to lunge or not? If a cat or something ran 2' in front of you, your dog is going to lunge. You can't prevent it in a situation like that. You can prevent it if they are just bad behaved on the leash, yes, but in a fast reacting, almost emergency situation for your dog, he's going to do what he does naturally, and that is to chase. Few of us have dogs (especially a GSD which as a higher drive to chase than many other breeds) that are so well disciplined that they would NEVER lunge.
I don't think I was being over dramatic. Animals crossing your path on a walk are a reality not a dramatization. Maybe not where you live, but here, and for many other people, it's not uncommon to encounter other animals where lunging could be a factor.
Why do you not think a GSD doesn't have more prey drive than other breeds? I'm not saying they are more driven than all breeds, but they are more driven than most. I guess it depends on the breeding too, you can have a GSD that has most of the traits the breed was designed for bred out of them by people who want a dog that stacks good but has nothing else to offer to the tradition of the breed.
Why do you not think a GSD doesn't have more prey drive than other breeds? I'm not saying they are more driven than all breeds, but they are more driven than most. I guess it depends on the breeding too, you can have a GSD that has most of the traits the breed was designed for bred out of them by people who want a dog that stacks good but has nothing else to offer to the tradition of the breed.
This is probably a dumb question, but let's say he starts pulling, you stop and wait. How long do you wait? Do you put the dog in a sit/stay, or start walking again as soon as he stops pulling. I have saw this done on TV and it looks so easy, but it's hard for me to keep consistent. Do you think an older dog could learn this?
Lois,
Your makin harder than it really is. When he pulls out in front, you pull him back into heel position and command "HEEL", do this while walking, have both hands on the leash. And yes, this is something an older dog can and should learn. You do not stop and wait for him to stop pulling, in his mind he is winning. With corrections timing is everything, again, when he pulls out in front (even just a little bit), pull him back into heel position and command "HEEL!", eventually after 100 or so repetitions he'll figure out that he gains nothing by stepping out in front. Also be 100% consistent, and repeat this drill daily, this is where many trainers and handlers fail.
Good luck.
-Dix
Your makin harder than it really is. When he pulls out in front, you pull him back into heel position and command "HEEL", do this while walking, have both hands on the leash. And yes, this is something an older dog can and should learn. You do not stop and wait for him to stop pulling, in his mind he is winning. With corrections timing is everything, again, when he pulls out in front (even just a little bit), pull him back into heel position and command "HEEL!", eventually after 100 or so repetitions he'll figure out that he gains nothing by stepping out in front. Also be 100% consistent, and repeat this drill daily, this is where many trainers and handlers fail.
Good luck.
-Dix
In the site I listed www.clickerlessons.com/lessons you stop and wait until they turn around and make eye contact with you. Then you start walking. Stop when they pull wait for eye contact... they don't get it at first but my Nanook had mostly figured it out after an hour of doing it. Don't worry about the sit/stay. You can teach active heeling later. I think you want loose-leashing walking for now, right?
M
I get stuff from this website all the time
I get stuff from this website all the time
My 3 Dobes look like super models
None of them pull too much - they behave well all the time
My budy from training class had porblem like yours
I know he got harness and his dog probably started to think that this is
some sort of armor and was going around proud like hell
He keeps pulling most of the time in spite of it
but there might be a point about preassure on the chest in stead of neck for sure
good luck
I get stuff from this website all the time
My 3 Dobes look like super models
None of them pull too much - they behave well all the time
My budy from training class had porblem like yours
I know he got harness and his dog probably started to think that this is
some sort of armor and was going around proud like hell
He keeps pulling most of the time in spite of it
but there might be a point about preassure on the chest in stead of neck for sure
good luck
R
A Study on Prong Collars was done in Germany:
100 dogs were in the study. 50 used choke and 50 used prong.
The dogs were studied for their entire lives. As dogs died, autopsies were performed.
Of the 50 which had chokes, 48 had injuries to the neck, trachea, or back. 2 of those were determined to be genetic. The other 46 were caused by trauma.
Of the 50 which had prongs, 2 had injuries in the neck area, 1 was determined to be genetic. 1 was caused by trauma.
The numbers seem to speak for themselves. check this link out... http://www.cobankopegi.com/prong.html prong colars are great treaning tools. they work great!!
100 dogs were in the study. 50 used choke and 50 used prong.
The dogs were studied for their entire lives. As dogs died, autopsies were performed.
Of the 50 which had chokes, 48 had injuries to the neck, trachea, or back. 2 of those were determined to be genetic. The other 46 were caused by trauma.
Of the 50 which had prongs, 2 had injuries in the neck area, 1 was determined to be genetic. 1 was caused by trauma.
The numbers seem to speak for themselves. check this link out... http://www.cobankopegi.com/prong.html prong colars are great treaning tools. they work great!!
R
Hello my friends,
Thank you so much for your time and help
I could not expect even in my dream that it is possible to get so much valuable information in such fast period of time
I am going to apply all I have learned and will be happy to update about progress
Thank you so much
p.s. I guess I'll have to wait with getting the harness
what good is the harness for anyway (beside pulling)?
I came across at least 5 other website which sell the harnesses
Should I have it for my dog for some reason?
Thank you so much for your time and help
I could not expect even in my dream that it is possible to get so much valuable information in such fast period of time
I am going to apply all I have learned and will be happy to update about progress
Thank you so much
p.s. I guess I'll have to wait with getting the harness
what good is the harness for anyway (beside pulling)?
I came across at least 5 other website which sell the harnesses
Should I have it for my dog for some reason?