I think it's common for dogs to pull on the leash....not because they're stubborn, defiant, naughty, trying to dominate and control you or lead the pack or any other of that nonsense. It's usually because they're ecstatic to go for a walk. It's like the most fun thing in the world and they can't wait to get on with it. We walk so slowly to their way of thinking. We must be a real drag and a half. LOL.
I think for training, making frequent turns are a great way to keep the dog paying attention like Mom said. If a dog goes out to the end of the leash and there's any tension at all in it, it's going to make him pull more because there's a "law" going on there....the resistance causes the animal to pull against it. (I use to put these clanky thingies around my horse's pasterns which clanked on his hoof. It would cause him to pull up against that, helping him to not drag his feet) LOL. It's sort of the same principle.
So, prevent tension in the leash, stop dead in your tracks and wait for the dog....in a few seconds he'll look back like, "huh? what gives?" He'll tend to come a few steps closer to you, slackening up the leash, at which time you resume walking. So, a combination of zig zagging, right and left turns, turning back and re-tracing the very same boring path, you just took with the same 'ole smells, stopping, frequent sits all helps the dog learn that to get on with the walk, he has to walk "right."
But very important is frequent reinforcement with a treat he really likes and praise... for even a step or two which is nice and every couple of steps which are nice.
I don't do leash pops, but use other means to get the dog to walk in the right area....patting my thigh if he's lagging, encouragement, try to make it a little game, like, "this is fun, don't you know?" LOL. Sometimes when he forges ahead, I'll use a NRM, like "eh" (that's not what I want. Try this instead) and follow with showing him what I want. And then lots of reward for no tension in the leash. (oh...did I already mention lots of reinforcement?)LOL.
He soon will figure out what gets him the reward. And that pulling not only doesn't get him any treats/praise, but it also doesn't get him where he's going. (make sure the treats are tiny....pea sized or the dog will get fat and cut back a tad on his dinner.)
Consistancy is really important...not to take one single step with tension in the leash. It's been working for him up to now, so he'll keep trying for a while, but if she keeps on with the "rules," he'll get onto it. Dogs do what works and after lots of consistancy and reinforcement for the correct response, he'll do what works some more.
Again....starting in the fenced yard (if it is a fenced yard) it's a lot of fun to practice with no leash at all, make it a game that the dog walks along...nothing to pull against. I'll take a treat in my right hand and when I'm about to turn, swoop my arm down with the treat in front of him and pivot around with my whole body....making a big production out of it and making happy, quick, repetative noises, like, "let's go, let's go" really fast to get him to keep up with me and follow around the turn with me. It's like a game and then as the dog completes the turn, he gets the treat. Then I'll go along and practice, "watch me" a few times, maybe throw in some sits and stays, maybe a few fetches....just mix it up. Training should be a game and not so serious. IMO. It keeps the dog's interest up and makes him think. That's why I personally prefer to not use the leash corrections and such. I don't know.....my Dobe walks very nicely now on a leash. He use to think he was setting out for the Ididerod when he was a pup. He also has a lovely, precise heel. I didn't use leash pops at all. I used a clicker and shaped the behavior to exactly where I wanted him. In fact, I didn't use a leash. So, I couldn't have popped it if I wanted to. LOL. Then we added the leash just to keep him use to it.