My nearly 3 year old German Shepherd has been growling at me recently. It started about 6 months ago and has gotten worse recently. The first time this happened I made the mistake of thinking it was rough play behavior and he bit my hand. It was only occurring when I left for work until recently. Now it seems to occur almost anytime I approach his crate. If I approach his crate with a treat he still growls. I am the person he is most attached to, but he only exhibits this behavior with me. He has been fine with my wife and two daughters. I know this might be a complicated issue, but can anyone offer any insight or advice on how to deal with this. I am baffled and complicating matters is my concern he will go into attack mode if I try to correct him.
Dog growling at me
- Thread starter Storm1
- Start date
First off I would suggest a call you your breeder (unless you got your dog from a shelter or rescue) Breeder support is great as they know their dogs and you. (and its free!)
If your dog is a rescue (or even if not) I would get a vet check up.
This is the sort of issue you will need a good trainer for, chances are there are more than one factor playing into it.
If your dog is a rescue (or even if not) I would get a vet check up.
This is the sort of issue you will need a good trainer for, chances are there are more than one factor playing into it.
For some reason he seems to associate you + crate = bad. Why might he think this? Have you personally used the crate as punishment? Did you accidentally bang into it once and give him a scare? Can you think of any incidents that might have caused this association?
One thing I would do is walk up the crate and throw very yummy treats inside while he's in there. It won't reinforce the growling, it will teach him that you + crate = yummy things!
One thing I would do is walk up the crate and throw very yummy treats inside while he's in there. It won't reinforce the growling, it will teach him that you + crate = yummy things!
What was going on when you were leaving for work? What had you done with the dog before leaving (the daily routine)? Where does the dog stay while you're at work? What was his behavior when you got home? How long were you gone? Did he exhibit any separation anxiety while he was left alone?
When you approach the crate, what do you do before he growls (how do you approach)? Is it a plastic crate or wire?
What have you done when he has growled and bitten?
What training has he had? What training methods have you used? What is his breeding (BYB, sport bred, AKC show, etc)?
It could be a number of things - fear based, fight drive, territorial are a few that come to mind.
When you approach the crate, what do you do before he growls (how do you approach)? Is it a plastic crate or wire?
What have you done when he has growled and bitten?
What training has he had? What training methods have you used? What is his breeding (BYB, sport bred, AKC show, etc)?
It could be a number of things - fear based, fight drive, territorial are a few that come to mind.
without hearing it or seeing it it could be a lot of things. My inlaws Rottie makes a growling sound at me when it comes by me because i'm the only person that every interacts with him. it's from a happy excitement and much different than his pissed off growl. So it can literally be from a thousand different reasons and since there can be serious consequences it's best to get help from somebody that can see it and witness what is going on.
I'd definitely get yourself a reputable behaviorist or a very good trainer who knows behavior if you can't turn things around soon.
What I would suggest in the meantime is your taking over the care of your dog, from feeding, to walking, to supplying toys, affection etc....and basically, start teaching him deferential behavoir. (link below)
When he is not already in his crate but might like to go in, stand in front of it and block it for a second while you ask him to sit first. When you block it, don't face him squarely. Turn a little sideways and don't stare into his eyes. You can sit in a chair right next to the crate and have a book to read ready. Then tell him "Okay, in your crate" (or whatever your release word is) and sit there and read your book. As long as he is not too worried about your being there, (you were already there first, after all) toss him a treat, something he WILL like and on a hungry tummy.
It sounds like he may be resource guarding the crate so if you're already there, you "own" the crate and are inviting him in. On the other hand, he may not be resource guarding but afraid of you for some reason and in a crate, there is no chance for escape so he gets more growly. Has the crate been used as punishment? If so, begin only using it with really good associations. Don't correct him when he growls or acts aggressive because that can further reduce his trust in you and you want him to make positive associations where it has to do with you. Don't put him more on the defensive. And don't get rid of that growl which is a warning, a very important communication that can save you from a bad bite. Respect the growl and work on making him feel okay about the things he's growling about and that then, will get rid of the growl but because he truly feels secure.
At this stage, if it is bothering him for you to go near the crate when he's already in there, I'd give him a little time to get over that first before pushing the envelope. Or...you can close the door and the only time he can go in there (if I'm getting this right that he likes to go in there) is when you control the door. And your opening the door for him is contingent on his behavior. He must sit/wait first. (or some other skill) Make every lesson fun and rewardinding, cheerful. If he bolts to go in the crate before his release word (make sure you use a release word)...close the door before he can go in or body block him if you think he might get hurt on the crate door. Then ask again for a sit/wait and repeat. Get your release word in in a hurry before he bolts, "okay!" Sit right down on your chair and read your book, tossing a treat in every 10 seconds or so. Do this at the beginning of every little session. Do this several times a day for a very short time....5 minutes or so)
Then move onto another part of the exercise: When you leave for just about 6 or 8 ft for just a few seconds and come back near the crate, toss in the opened door a very high value piece of meat. And then when he's finished eating it, walk away. Come back and toss in another good treat, wait for him to eat it and walk away. Do this when he's hungry. After a sufficient number of reps or maybe a few sessions, he should be begging you to come back near the crate. As you walk away, he should be calling to you, "Come back, come back and bring that pot roast with you." If you leave the door open, he'll probably follow you out. But if you want to practice this crate proximatey thing, keep the door closed while you come and go away from the crate.
I recommend your hand feeding him all his meals for a little while and asking for some skills or tricks he's learned fist before getting an installment of food; sit/handful, come/handful, shake hands/handful. Do this for a week or so and do it next to the crate. Move the crate in different locations every meal or so. Then just a few handfuls, then give him his whole bowl as long as he is not resource guarding his food.
If he wants you to open the door so he can go outside for a walk, have him earn that first. Anything he likes and that means from the other people in your family (absolutely a must that there is consistency from all, regardless if he's acting aggressively to them), he must not get without performing something first, at least for lots of things. You don't have to carry it to the extreme I don't think and in fact, sometimes that can cause some undue stress. But for the main things he likes and needs, including a lot of your attention and affection. Make a list. Well here...I'll post a link: Teaching your aggressive dog deferential behavior Read that through and start implimenting it.
If you see no changes, find yourself a good behaviorist because it's vastly more valuable to have someone see your dog and you interact and watch what exactly is going on. All any of us can do on the Internet is partically guess work because we can't truly evaluate your dog so we're going off of how we perceive your post....which we may be missing something or misinterepting something.
The questions that were asked are good to know. And I totally agree about seeing a vet to make sure there's no thyroid problem or some other thing going on.
What I would suggest in the meantime is your taking over the care of your dog, from feeding, to walking, to supplying toys, affection etc....and basically, start teaching him deferential behavoir. (link below)
When he is not already in his crate but might like to go in, stand in front of it and block it for a second while you ask him to sit first. When you block it, don't face him squarely. Turn a little sideways and don't stare into his eyes. You can sit in a chair right next to the crate and have a book to read ready. Then tell him "Okay, in your crate" (or whatever your release word is) and sit there and read your book. As long as he is not too worried about your being there, (you were already there first, after all) toss him a treat, something he WILL like and on a hungry tummy.
It sounds like he may be resource guarding the crate so if you're already there, you "own" the crate and are inviting him in. On the other hand, he may not be resource guarding but afraid of you for some reason and in a crate, there is no chance for escape so he gets more growly. Has the crate been used as punishment? If so, begin only using it with really good associations. Don't correct him when he growls or acts aggressive because that can further reduce his trust in you and you want him to make positive associations where it has to do with you. Don't put him more on the defensive. And don't get rid of that growl which is a warning, a very important communication that can save you from a bad bite. Respect the growl and work on making him feel okay about the things he's growling about and that then, will get rid of the growl but because he truly feels secure.
At this stage, if it is bothering him for you to go near the crate when he's already in there, I'd give him a little time to get over that first before pushing the envelope. Or...you can close the door and the only time he can go in there (if I'm getting this right that he likes to go in there) is when you control the door. And your opening the door for him is contingent on his behavior. He must sit/wait first. (or some other skill) Make every lesson fun and rewardinding, cheerful. If he bolts to go in the crate before his release word (make sure you use a release word)...close the door before he can go in or body block him if you think he might get hurt on the crate door. Then ask again for a sit/wait and repeat. Get your release word in in a hurry before he bolts, "okay!" Sit right down on your chair and read your book, tossing a treat in every 10 seconds or so. Do this at the beginning of every little session. Do this several times a day for a very short time....5 minutes or so)
Then move onto another part of the exercise: When you leave for just about 6 or 8 ft for just a few seconds and come back near the crate, toss in the opened door a very high value piece of meat. And then when he's finished eating it, walk away. Come back and toss in another good treat, wait for him to eat it and walk away. Do this when he's hungry. After a sufficient number of reps or maybe a few sessions, he should be begging you to come back near the crate. As you walk away, he should be calling to you, "Come back, come back and bring that pot roast with you." If you leave the door open, he'll probably follow you out. But if you want to practice this crate proximatey thing, keep the door closed while you come and go away from the crate.
I recommend your hand feeding him all his meals for a little while and asking for some skills or tricks he's learned fist before getting an installment of food; sit/handful, come/handful, shake hands/handful. Do this for a week or so and do it next to the crate. Move the crate in different locations every meal or so. Then just a few handfuls, then give him his whole bowl as long as he is not resource guarding his food.
If he wants you to open the door so he can go outside for a walk, have him earn that first. Anything he likes and that means from the other people in your family (absolutely a must that there is consistency from all, regardless if he's acting aggressively to them), he must not get without performing something first, at least for lots of things. You don't have to carry it to the extreme I don't think and in fact, sometimes that can cause some undue stress. But for the main things he likes and needs, including a lot of your attention and affection. Make a list. Well here...I'll post a link: Teaching your aggressive dog deferential behavior Read that through and start implimenting it.
If you see no changes, find yourself a good behaviorist because it's vastly more valuable to have someone see your dog and you interact and watch what exactly is going on. All any of us can do on the Internet is partically guess work because we can't truly evaluate your dog so we're going off of how we perceive your post....which we may be missing something or misinterepting something.
The questions that were asked are good to know. And I totally agree about seeing a vet to make sure there's no thyroid problem or some other thing going on.
I agree with this. I run into lots of people who misinterrpret talkie, growly, happy sounds for aggression. It really is best to get someone to watch this...someone who can really evalutate him. The stuff I wrote about deferential behavior is good for any dog and part of training. If this isn't resource guarding and he's just talking or being silly, you could skip that stuff about the crate. But I do find it odd that if he is only doing his happy, talkie, growly play sounds, that it is only happening...or primarily in connection with the crate.
Breeding – He’s working line AKC and I think it’s half but may be ¾ Czech.
He’s been with us since 8 weeks.
He was given a vet checkup after he bit me.
Leaving for work really nothing was going on. When he bit me I had given him a treat and started petting him on his head. He growled when I pet him. The growls were not very loud or threatening sounding, and my mistake was not taking them seriously because after about four of these he escalated very quickly and went after my arm. I was not going to crate him at the time. My wife usually does that and he stays there an hour or so in the morning.
I have hit him a couple of times but not hard. Once was a week after he bit me grabbed my legs with his paws which is what he did when he bit me so I smacked him in the nose with his leash to push him off. Last week he gave 3 menacing growls when I went into the den where his crate was and I swatted him with the gate we use for him.
I approach his crate (wire crate) usually with a treat or praising him, asking if he wants to walk, play, ect. Walk or play he lets me approach. Bringing a treat or petting him through the grid he growls.
It may be anxiety from my leaving could be a factor. That’s what I thought it was at first. The problem is that recently it is no longer only associated with my leaving and has gotten worse.
We had a trainer who worked mainly with discipline (prong collar and corrections) which did seem to be getting some results. This would not be my preferred way to deal with the situation. On the other hand he has never responded very well to using rewards to control him.
I was writing this when Doberluv posted so I did not get a chance to read that post. thanks for taking the time to reply.
He’s been with us since 8 weeks.
He was given a vet checkup after he bit me.
Leaving for work really nothing was going on. When he bit me I had given him a treat and started petting him on his head. He growled when I pet him. The growls were not very loud or threatening sounding, and my mistake was not taking them seriously because after about four of these he escalated very quickly and went after my arm. I was not going to crate him at the time. My wife usually does that and he stays there an hour or so in the morning.
I have hit him a couple of times but not hard. Once was a week after he bit me grabbed my legs with his paws which is what he did when he bit me so I smacked him in the nose with his leash to push him off. Last week he gave 3 menacing growls when I went into the den where his crate was and I swatted him with the gate we use for him.
I approach his crate (wire crate) usually with a treat or praising him, asking if he wants to walk, play, ect. Walk or play he lets me approach. Bringing a treat or petting him through the grid he growls.
It may be anxiety from my leaving could be a factor. That’s what I thought it was at first. The problem is that recently it is no longer only associated with my leaving and has gotten worse.
We had a trainer who worked mainly with discipline (prong collar and corrections) which did seem to be getting some results. This would not be my preferred way to deal with the situation. On the other hand he has never responded very well to using rewards to control him.
I was writing this when Doberluv posted so I did not get a chance to read that post. thanks for taking the time to reply.
Well, unless it's excitement at being let out of the crate and then when he's out and able to run and play he burns off that excess enthusiasm - not uncommon in GSDs and malinois to see more vocalizing when in the crate and especially when they anticipate being let out. But the next post by Storm makes it sound as if that's not what is going on.
Czech GSDs often are more defensive. Not a fear based defense, but sharp and quick to defend and protect.
STOP all physical corrections - no prong collars, no choke collars, and absolutely no hitting him.
The biting you when you were leaving leads me to think he's trying to control you and your actions. Growling over food is most likely resource guarding. I would follow the advice Carrie gave and also put him on a NILIF program. You control the resources and he works to receive them.
Czech GSDs often are more defensive. Not a fear based defense, but sharp and quick to defend and protect.
STOP all physical corrections - no prong collars, no choke collars, and absolutely no hitting him.
The biting you when you were leaving leads me to think he's trying to control you and your actions. Growling over food is most likely resource guarding. I would follow the advice Carrie gave and also put him on a NILIF program. You control the resources and he works to receive them.
I have a czech dog (11 mth puppy) and they do have a higher defense drive than alot of other gsd's, because of this they can also be more reactive ..
Since it sounds like your wife & daughters have no problems with him (and I find that a "good" thing), I would say the issue lies with you. (I don't want to make you feel bad!)
My initial thoughts,,the bite when you treated him/ pet him on the head,,you said you had hit him previously, He is associating YOUR HAND with NEGATIVE things, as in "he's gonna hit me"..so he's on the defensive. The next thing you said was you swatted him with the grate...Even tho you didn't hit him hard,,he is not going to forget it.
Alot of dogs view their crates as their "special place",,one that some will protect.
What I would do,,,Keep your hands and fingers OUT of his crate,,IF he is fine with you approaching saying "let's walk let's play" ,,that would be the ONLY thing I'd be doing in regards to his crate. IF he's in his crate I would totally ignore him and I mean totally,,no looking, no talking, IGNORE him, even if he growls,,,I would only be approaching that crate with the "let's walk let's play"...
I would start feeding him his meals BY HAND,,I would not pet him while your feeding him, Just FEED HIM,,good boy, good praise,,I wouldn't "get in his face" either..I would do no reprimanding or correcting from your end until you can build that trust factor.
It sounds like you have to rebuild your relationship with this dog because he doesn't trust you. Czech lines are like elephants they do not forget, while they may need a firmer hand, they are also a dog that you can't 'whack' and expect them to forget about it..
Good luck
)
diane
Since it sounds like your wife & daughters have no problems with him (and I find that a "good" thing), I would say the issue lies with you. (I don't want to make you feel bad!)
My initial thoughts,,the bite when you treated him/ pet him on the head,,you said you had hit him previously, He is associating YOUR HAND with NEGATIVE things, as in "he's gonna hit me"..so he's on the defensive. The next thing you said was you swatted him with the grate...Even tho you didn't hit him hard,,he is not going to forget it.
Alot of dogs view their crates as their "special place",,one that some will protect.
What I would do,,,Keep your hands and fingers OUT of his crate,,IF he is fine with you approaching saying "let's walk let's play" ,,that would be the ONLY thing I'd be doing in regards to his crate. IF he's in his crate I would totally ignore him and I mean totally,,no looking, no talking, IGNORE him, even if he growls,,,I would only be approaching that crate with the "let's walk let's play"...
I would start feeding him his meals BY HAND,,I would not pet him while your feeding him, Just FEED HIM,,good boy, good praise,,I wouldn't "get in his face" either..I would do no reprimanding or correcting from your end until you can build that trust factor.
It sounds like you have to rebuild your relationship with this dog because he doesn't trust you. Czech lines are like elephants they do not forget, while they may need a firmer hand, they are also a dog that you can't 'whack' and expect them to forget about it..
Good luck
)diane
This is a serious a situation which should not be resolved through advice via a dog board, IMO.
I suggest you find someone through the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP) right away for an eyes-on evaluation of what's going on within your household.
The International Association of Canine Professionals
This is the only organization I recommend.
I also suggest you read the articles (general) on their site before you hire anyone to help you with your dog. Buyer beware - lots of scams out there!
Please don't wait, this is serious and will probably need more than just training. Get someone who understands leadership principles.
Good Luck!
I suggest you find someone through the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP) right away for an eyes-on evaluation of what's going on within your household.
The International Association of Canine Professionals
This is the only organization I recommend.
I also suggest you read the articles (general) on their site before you hire anyone to help you with your dog. Buyer beware - lots of scams out there!
Please don't wait, this is serious and will probably need more than just training. Get someone who understands leadership principles.
Good Luck!
Last edited:
Just a note.. If you find someone who you like.. and they talk mostly about training, don't let that discourage you. The best way to be a good leader is through training. I have dealt with aggressive biting dogs. I have found (baring medical causes) consistent training works. As long as you are training the right way and for the right things.
A good leader is one who can communicate fairly and with minimal confusion. The best way to communicate with an animal is to train them. Another way to look at training them is that you are explaining to them how to live with you.
A good leader is one who can communicate fairly and with minimal confusion. The best way to communicate with an animal is to train them. Another way to look at training them is that you are explaining to them how to live with you.
CP....that was what one of those links was which I posted....deferential behavior is NILIF.
That's why most of the posts included advice to get a reputable behaviorist or trainer to help. I opened my post, in fact with that very advice.
In the meantime, ifthe poster doesn't feel an eminent danger of being bitten, he can do a few things to assist in re-gaining the dog's trust or rapore with him, which was very likely breached by hitting him and reduce the risk of a bite. Putting a dog in a position like that raises the odds significantly of producing this kind of out come. There are a few relatively unthreatening techniques to decrease the dogs anxiety. And obviously, if this dog is biting and attacking or nearly so, professional help should be sought asap.
And be careful who you take recommendations from in the area of professionals. You need to know and feel good about the source from which these recommendations come. Don't let anyone and don't yourself ever correct....as in punishment acts of aggression. This is the worst possible thing you can do.
That's why most of the posts included advice to get a reputable behaviorist or trainer to help. I opened my post, in fact with that very advice.
In the meantime, ifthe poster doesn't feel an eminent danger of being bitten, he can do a few things to assist in re-gaining the dog's trust or rapore with him, which was very likely breached by hitting him and reduce the risk of a bite. Putting a dog in a position like that raises the odds significantly of producing this kind of out come. There are a few relatively unthreatening techniques to decrease the dogs anxiety. And obviously, if this dog is biting and attacking or nearly so, professional help should be sought asap.
And be careful who you take recommendations from in the area of professionals. You need to know and feel good about the source from which these recommendations come. Don't let anyone and don't yourself ever correct....as in punishment acts of aggression. This is the worst possible thing you can do.
A-w-w...thanks CP. You're very kind. I know though, how hard it is to slog through a sea of often unintelligable verbage, especially when caffeine deficient. I don't mean to ramble. But I always think..."Oh, I better not leave that detail out." Or..."Gee, what if they think this....better make it more clear." (for me, more clear seems to be more words, not better words) (and to think....I'm trying to be a writer!) :rofl1: And they just seem to have a life of their own...these posts. It's like trying to rein in a wild horse.
A-w-w...thanks CP. You're very kind. I know though, how hard it is to slog through a sea of often unintelligable verbage, especially when caffeine deficient. I don't mean to ramble. But I always think..."Oh, I better not leave that detail out." Or..."Gee, what if they think this....better make it more clear." (for me, more clear seems to be more words, not better words) (and to think....I'm trying to be a writer!) :rofl1: And they just seem to have a life of their own...these posts. It's like trying to rein in a wild horse.
If I want to read short posts that leave out important details and then require additional posts for clarification, I'll read my own :rofl1: