What is Socialization?

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#21
I'm hoping people won't read all the *science* and decide that an older dog is a lost cause and leave one sitting in the shelter for that reason, or leave one tied in the yard because "he missed the window." :(

There is a balance between the nature/nuture argument, too, and it's going to vary by breed. A perfectly bred Golden Retriever should be perfectly fine being around strangers and being petted, even without any real socialization.

However, a perfectly bred Fila is going to be anything BUT.
 

corgipower

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#22
The socialization window cannot remain open forever. If it did, then you could have animals trotting up to you in the forest.
The problem there, is that our dogs aren't wild animals in the forest. Dogs' prey/predator survival instincts have been bred down as part of domestication.

In socialization to any category of people, the single best way to obtain this cushion is through hand-feeding.
So I guess I've just gotten lucky in that all the puppies I've raised without having slews of people hand feed them have never become fear biters? Hogwash.

It is true that there are breeds that are extra hard to socialize...need more because they're selected to be aloof with strangers...part of their job.
Aloofness really has nothing to do with socialization. Unless of course you want slews of people to hand feed the dog. My aloof dogs have no problem walking through crowds of people. They just aren't "OMG! Pet me!" when doing so.

But with well bred dogs, everything is fun. I don't have to make sure they see blowing trash as something to not be feared. I just go places with them and do stuff and in those cases the socialization does just happen. But I can also see if one is having issues with something and work on that one part.
I agree.

It also helps that she has the same trust in me as I have in her. That's also, for me, an integral part of socialization. It's not just an acclimatization on the part of your dog, it's your dog learning that you are a team, and it deepens the bond between you.
Yep.
The more Nyx trusts me, which isn't an easy accomplishment, the less fearful she is. It's no longer Nyx vs. the world. She's starting to realize I'm looking out for her and starting to look to me for cues.

But it still takes more to develop a really stable, well adjusted adult dog.
You can't change nature. If nature produces a stable temperament, you'll always have a stable temperament. If nature produces a fearful temperament, no amount of socialization is going to make it unfearful. You can certainly create positive associations, but in times of stress, when faced with the unknown, they'll revert to their core temperament.

Could a perfectly bred dog that's never seen a car before be ok with one zooming by? As with anything in life there needs to be balance. IMO It isn't 100% nature that determines how anyone, including dogs, are going to turn out. Nurture plays into as well and even the best bred dog will need some socialization. If it was 100% nature then a well bred dog could get over a tramatic experience easily with no long term effects....
Even a not so well bred dog that's never seen a car before can be OK with one zooming by.

IMO, the nurture aspect, as Renee said, is in your dog learning that you're a team.

As for the "bubble", if it is so critical, it's a lot shorter than suggested. I haven't seen any puppies truly changed within the window of time from when acquired at 8 weeks and 4-5 months of age. Maybe there's a "bubble" before they're 8 weeks.

Wild animals need to get these things "figured out" much quicker or they'll run into false negatives more quickly and die. (being curious about something that turns out to be deadly dangerous..that they should have avoided)
Huh?
If curiosity is something that only happens during the "critical bubble", then it never closes in dogs. Because I have seen many senior dogs who are just as curious as puppies.

But again...wild animals have hard wired survival behaviors that our dogs don't have. It comes with being part of the food chain.
 

Doberluv

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#23
I'm hoping people won't read all the *science* and decide that an older dog is a lost cause and leave one sitting in the shelter for that reason, or leave one tied in the yard because "he missed the window."
This is the trouble with trying to discuss the topic of this thread. If you don't read what is said, you run the risk of misunderstanding what has been said, not only by the author, but by me. It was reiterated a few times by me and it was also written in the chapter that adult dogs can still be socialized, but it is much more difficult and it takes longer. And they may or may not be what they might have been, had they been habituated to novel things early on.

Wild animals need to get these things "figured out" much quicker or they'll run into false negatives more quickly and die. (being curious about something that turns out to be deadly dangerous..that they should have avoided)
Again....you'd have to read and understand what Jean Donaldson was explaining so well.

You can't change nature. If nature produces a stable temperament, you'll always have a stable temperament. If nature produces a fearful temperament, no amount of socialization is going to make it unfearful. You can certainly create positive associations, but in times of stress, when faced with the unknown, they'll revert to their core temperament.
Temperament is what the dog comes with. So no, you can't change temperament. But you can modify behavior to one degree or another. I have worked with many dogs that I consider to have a shaky or not so great temperament...weak nerves if you will. The behavior that presents stemming, in part from that temperament can be turned around in many cases to one degree or another. Yes, the underlying temperament is still there. I'm not or never have said that temperament can be changed. I said that you can have a dog with a good temperament and lousy behavior and visa versa. I've seen plenty of good dogs ruined by lousy handling. Sure, underneath, their temperament may be stable but that doesn't mean their behavior is normal.

And I've seen a lot of good dogs with lousy handling turn out all right. Toker, herself is an example of that. I feel that her temperament is quite good. However, as a previously abused youngster, she had some weird, fearful and scary behavior at times. With good handling subsequently, her behavior improved..her fearfulness disappeared in all but a single context. Her defensiveness disappeared altogether and the biting that went with it in one context.

Aloofness really has nothing to do with socialization. Unless of course you want slews of people to hand feed the dog. My aloof dogs have no problem walking through crowds of people. They just aren't "OMG! Pet me!" when doing so.
I disagree. Aloofness is part of certain temperaments. I know plenty about aloof dogs, my Doberman for example. And he too, could walk through crowds and a whole lot more than that. The point is that dogs bred to be aloof do well to have extra socialization. They'll still tend toward aloofness and that's okay. Some dogs are suppose to be a little aloof. But they can be harder to socialize because they're not that interested in people. Socializing hard-to-socialize breeds (ie: protection, guard dogs etc) is, imo, exceedingly important.


But again...wild animals have hard wired survival behaviors that our dogs don't have. It comes with being part of the food chain.
Yes, but domestic dogs are still animals and still have instincts and operate as animals even though they have this amazing bond with humans.

As for the "bubble", if it is so critical, it's a lot shorter than suggested. I haven't seen any puppies truly changed within the window of time from when acquired at 8 weeks and 4-5 months of age. Maybe there's a "bubble" before they're 8 weeks.
The sensitive period is from birth to about 3-5 months of age. How many puppies have you met that were raised with little to no human contact and locked up in a cage from birth to 4 months of age? Those puppies that are adopted can come around but it takes an extremely long time to gain their trust and habituate them or imprint them to novel things. So, no..they're not a lost cause, not all of them. Some never come around too well and may be better off being pts. Some do make progress. It's not cookie cutter.

So I guess I've just gotten lucky in that all the puppies I've raised without having slews of people hand feed them have never become fear biters? Hogwash
If you would read the OP, you would see that she is talking about covering all bases, taking it the extra mile. You've had a few puppies, right. That is still not a large study group or control group. You may have just gotten by because certain variables didn't happen to present that would, in combination with their temperament, cause a problem. People can't be assured how their dog is going to be as an adult, so it is recommended by most experts in dogs to socialize their pups to the hilt. Why risk it? Even right on this forum, we hear of dogs biting people because they're unsure, uncomfortable, fearful, even slightly fearful. No, it may not be all on account of a lack of early socialization. But if that were left out, wouldn't it have made sense to have that scary type of person feed the puppy treats when visiting from early puppy hood and create a positive association? Why wait till the dog is older and already having problems and try to undo his opinion of that kind of scary person?

And unless the OP is read, this discussion for me, is pretty fruitless because some of you bring up questions and quotes that were addressed there. And I don't much care for having words put into my mouth that I never said or implied, such as people getting the idea from science that shelter dogs should be written off with no attempt to save them. That hits pretty hard because I've rehabilitated my share of shelter dogs that were pretty darn miserable, including Toker. She wasn't a shelter dog. She was found in a garbage bag in a ditch at 4 weeks of age. I never said that shelter dogs should be passed over...and nothing I've ever read from science has said that either. But if you don't read, you don't see that and then make false assumptions. :(

Anyhow, I'd be interested in seeing any research studies by reliable sources, like university behavior departments and behavioral biologists, applied veterinary behaviorists, ethologists...(in other words, people who make it their life work to study, observe and learn these things) that conclude that socialization isn't particularly necessary during the period between birth and about 3-5 months of age in puppies.
 
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corgipower

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#24
Again....you'd have to read and understand what Jean Donaldson was explaining so well.

<snip>

And unless the OP is read, this discussion for me, is fruitless because some of you bring up questions and quotes that were addressed there.
Uh, yea.
I did read the OP.
And every post in the thread.
I am not running out to buy the book though.
And reading it and understanding it doesn't make me agree with it.

Also, no one here is suggesting that puppies shouldn't be socialized.
 
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#25
Dober, I adore you, but you MUST begin to understand that the vast majority of dog owners -- good, responsible, caring, SUCCESSFUL dog owners are not likely to read through a text like Donaldson's.

It's not that we aren't literate, or cannot comprehend the written word, it's just that most work like hers is . . . well, we'd just as soon sit down and read a treatise on the pathology of Pi.

Works like that are great -- if that's your area of fascination. Most of us just love our dogs. You don't need to know the molecular composition of the aluminum block in your car engine to drive your car -- you need to know how to operate it and do a few odd things like check the fluid levels, tires, battery, belts . . .
 

matie1138

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#26
thank you for this info, I've seen cases like what you mentioned and it's a bit odd and sad at the same time
 

Doberluv

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#27
Renee, if you don't want to read what was posted, then please be cautious not to imply that science or I would ever suggest that shelter dogs should just be written off or passed over because they're a hopeless cause. That is just unfair and inaccurate. Not one thing I ever read or wrote said or implied anything like that. So, how you inferred that I think shelter dogs are a lost cause, I don't know. But you didn't get it from my writings or Jean Donaldson's or anything else I've ever read. And I read and have read a LOT about dogs. I am a supporter of shelter dogs in that many of the dogs I rehabilitate or make better are from shelters.

Nobody has to read anything they don't want to. I can understand that. I don't read the posts that don't interest me either. And I'm definitely not interested in the material my engine block is made from. But then one should be careful about jumping to conclusions regarding the OP, oughtn't one??? It is unscientific to jump to conclusions without all of the information. LOL. :p (I adore you too, but I am feeling slightly wounded right now)



CP...

Huh?
If curiosity is something that only happens during the "critical bubble", then it never closes in dogs. Because I have seen many senior dogs who are just as curious as puppies.

This "huh" with the "?" lead me to believe that you misunderstood something, not simply that you didn't agree. Sorry if I misunderstood. My observations have been that adult dogs that have had a relatively healthy socialization period will be curious because they've acquired that bounce-back, that ability to recover from initial caution or from being spooked from something....and they tend to have confidence and are willing to check new things out much better than dogs that never developed that on account of no exposure to novel things as a young puppy. Those kinds of dogs tend to be more fearful. They can improve with extensive work but it doesn't come as naturally as it does with dogs who had a chance to develop bounce-back and who have lots of history of practice meeting new people and environments etc. How many dogs have you worked with or had that had a poor early socialization history? Were they as well adjusted, do you think as dogs that were habituated to novel things at a very early age? How did they do with strangers, with approaching unusual things in their environment?

I know that reading and understanding something isn't the same as agreeing. And that's okay. But we seemingly are having a healthy debate about something and so naturally, we all try to put our information and opinions out there.

But again... I would be interested, if you don't mind, what, besides the dogs you've known personally leads you to your opinion about this sensitive period. I'd truly be interested in something that has some substantial studies or conclusions, science, if you will, that indicates that there is no such thing as this sensitive period in dogs. I think science is the best we've got to go on besides our own observations, which include a fraction of the dogs and contexts that scientists study. I'd like to know if there is any scientific substance to the idea that this sensitive and finite period in domestic dogs is a myth. I always like to see different ideas. For example, in the book I've been writing, (for ions) I have come across a few very compelling theories about the domestication process and evolution of dogs. When I thought I had it all figured out, along came yet another theory that blew everything in that chapter out of the water. So, here I am, still struggling over that chapter. :rofl1:

So sorry if I offended you by my zealousness and tendency to become over-stimulated by details. LOL.
 
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#28
Dober, if you'll read what I actually said, I didn't infer that you or Donaldson thought people should write off adult or shelter dogs, I said I didn't want others to get that impression, which would be easy to do, since most ARE going to skim and pick up the "bubble" idea, which, I am certain, is NOT what either you or the author intended.

Science is great, but it rarely studies living things as they are naturally. It must, in order to be "science," study them in unnatural, controlled settings, removing variables -- nothing at all like real life, which is, after all, what most of us live with our dogs.
 

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#29
Coming in a bit late now, but I think of socialisation simply as giving my puppy a new experience and assigning it with a (hopefully positive) value. I agree with the school of thought that dictates there are certain periods in a puppy's development where learning/socialisation is crucial and an optimum time for them to learn and develop values for new experiences.

When you have an adult rescue dog who is, for example, fearful of strangers - they've (IMO) missed the socialisation window where they get to assign value to new experiences. They've experienced strangers, that's not new to them, and if they are fearful of strangers they obviously already have a negative value for them. Therefore, socialisation (exposing them to a new situation and assigning it a value) alone is not going to help them.

I cringe when I've heard people prescribe 'socialisation' as the answer to a fearful/anxious adult dog. It would be like people suggesting my dog aggressive dog just needed to be socialised with other dogs when that would have made his behavior worse. He needed to learn that he had an option other than aggression when around other dogs, and I taught him to look to me for guidance instead of taking it into his own hands (or should that be paws... LOL). The window for socialisation had been and gone long before.
 

Sweet72947

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#30
I think where we are tripping up is, what is the definition of "socialization"? Might it be different for each dog? I work in a shelter full of dogs, 100 at least in any given time (most are young adults, 5 months - 2 years of age, although we have a few middle age dogs and some seniors). You can bet the previous owners of these dogs didn't actively socialize them more than just having them live in the home, and taking them for walks now and then, and they are friendly, playful, curious, willing to learn, ready to bond. But maybe that's all the socialization most dogs, with normal stable temperaments, really need, just socialization enough to say, this is grass. This is a car. These are people. That is a cat. That is another dog, that is rain, that is snow, etc.

(Although, I do want to kick the ass of people who don't teach their puppy bite inhibition, and/or that people aren't chew toys. I'm getting rather tired of being chomped every day. :p)
 

smeagle

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#31
What I meant to add in my post above is that to me socialisation isn't just about giving my puppy a new experience, but also an opportunity for me to show them what to do and how to behave when confronted with a new experience - because at the end of the day, no matter how many things you socialise them to you can't ever socialise them to everything the will encounter in their life. It's good to teach puppies they have the skills to navigate situations that might be a bit stressful or frightening or unusual or super exciting etc.
 

smeagle

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#32
I think where we are tripping up is, what is the definition of "socialization"? Might it be different for each dog? I work in a shelter full of dogs, 100 at least in any given time (most are young adults, 5 months - 2 years of age, although we have a few middle age dogs and some seniors). You can bet the previous owners of these dogs didn't actively socialize them more than just having them live in the home, and taking them for walks now and then, and they are friendly, playful, curious, willing to learn, ready to bond. But maybe that's all the socialization most dogs, with normal stable temperaments, really need, just socialization enough to say, this is grass. This is a car. These are people. That is a cat. That is another dog, that is rain, that is snow, etc.
IMO the definition of socialisation is not different for each dog, it still means the same thing - but genetically some dogs may be more confident or easy going or stronger nerved and therefore may not need as extensive socialisation as a pup who is naturally nervy, timid, unsure etc. Not that I would ever take the risk by assuming my puppy was confident enough that it didn't need to be socialised - but it might quicker for a confident pup to learn that various experiences are positive/not scary etc. A nervy pup might take a bit more work to become comfortable and assign a positive value to the same experience. If that makes sense??
 

Doberluv

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#33
A nervy pup might take a bit more work to become comfortable and assign a positive value to the same experience. If that makes sense??
It makes perfect sense. I think your posts are good.

Renee....scienctific experiements in labs are only one small part of the story. Many dog people have pretty much accepted this sensitive period just by observation and experience. People advice puppy purchasers to get puppies from breeders who raise their puppies in the home, not out in a barn, isolated from people and other stimuli. Those puppies are usually fearful and unable to adapt well to the world that is outside of the barn.

Sheep guardian breeds, such as Great Pyrenees are often imprinted to sheep as their first and foremost attachment. The phenomenon of imprinting has long been observed and acknowledged and accepted as a fact of life. The dog's sensitive period is something like imprinting, but the period lasts longer. This imprinting period is what they call the critical socialization period but they're starting to coin the term, "sensitive socialization period" because the time period is longer. With some animals, it's very short and they must form an attachment to their mother and learn what, in their environment is safe and dangerous, what to approach and what to avoid very quickly or they won't survive. Domestic dogs, while adapted well to humans are still animals and still have these functions given to them by nature.

Some experiements have demonstrated the functions of brain chemistry in response to stimuli during the critical or sensitive period...changes. There are various developmental stages in puppies, such as when they first hear, smell, see etc. Then the things they begin to do as they grow. Several fear periods throughout puppyhood have been noted and are consistent, with slight variations of onset and offset. This sensitive period is one of the developmental stages. It is long lasting in comparrison to a lot of animals, but that may be because domestic dogs are neotenic and have an extended "puppy hood" so to speak, due, in part, to increased seretonin and norepinephrine hormone production. Compared to wolves, they're juvenile all the way into adult hood. So, they have more time to imprint than wolves.

There are some birds that, if they don't hear their parents sing very soon after birth, they will never be able to sing and attract a mate. So dogs have it pretty easy, but they too, need to have positive exposure to a wide variety of stimuli during this imprinting or sensitive socialization period to be well adusted and not tending toward extreme fearfulness of novel stimuli in the future. Some of that can be over-come or compensated for to a degree, but it is extremely difficult and hard to make a lot of headway. People who say that they've seen different may have been working with dogs that did have more than they think they had during that time. A dog truly isolated from habituating to a wide variety of stimuli during this critical period will most likely never be right.
 
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Doberluv

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#34
This educational thing is posted in case anybody is interested. I know it's a lot for some people to want to read. But here it is anyhow. ;)


Puppy Socialisation and Habituation (Part 1) Why is it Necessary?
David Appleby
One in five of the dogs that Dr Valerie O’Farrell (1986) studied while conducting research at Edinburgh (Royal Dick) University Veterinary School had a behavioural problem to a lesser or greater extent. A similar, but larger, American study fixed the figure at one in four. In one year my practice treated 773 dogs - 79 of them, that’s 10 percent, had problems of fearfulness towards people or the environment due to a lack of early socialisation or habituation and a further 4.5. percent were inept at relating to other dogs, again due to a lack of early socialisation. The problem is immeasurably greater than these figures suggest. Many dogs show a weakness of temperament or inability to cope when faced with a particular situation, without their behaviour becoming problematical enough for the owners to seek help from a behavioural counsellor.

Socialisation can be described as the process whereby an animal learns how to recognise and interact with the species with which it cohabits. In the wild this is likely to be limited to the animal’s own species, but for the domestic dog it includes other species such as man and cats. By learning how to interact with these the socialised dog develops communication skills which enable it to recognise, amongst other things, whether or not it is being threatened and how to recognise and respond to the intentions of others.

Habituation can be described as the process whereby an animal becomes accustomed to non-threatening environmental stimuli and learns to ignore them.

There is a sensitive period of development in which socialisation and habituation must occur and be properly completed if the dog is not to grow up to be maladjusted. The degree of deprivation a dog suffers in respect of socialisation and habituation will be reflected proportionately in the extent of maladjustment. Accordingly, a dog that has had no experience of a specific stimulus at the completion of the sensitive period will always be fearful of it; a dog that has had some exposure, but not sufficient, will be better adjusted, although not entirely sound; and a dog that has had adequate experience of the stimulus in the sensitive period will grow up to be "bomb proof". Dogs that grow up to be fearful because they have been subjected to stimulus deprivation can be improved by counter conditioning programmes, but the maxim prevention is better than cure was never more applicable than the first few weeks of a domestic animal's life.

The empirical evidence which shows the crucial importance of systematically socialising and habituating puppies during the critical period has been around for a long time. Few people interested in animals can be unfamiliar with the imprinting experiments of Konrad Lorenz, who, from the 1930’s onwards, recorded the fact that birds such as geese hand-reared from hatching became imprinted upon him and behaved towards him as to a parent of their own kind. In fact, Lorenz found that birds would imprint on virtually anything, even a flashing light, and treat it as mother. Significantly, birds that accepted Lorenz or a bird of another species as a surrogate parent would also recognise and accept other people or members of the adopter’s species. Birds are a special case because it is to their evolutionary advantage to recognise and follow the parent figure as soon after birth as possible.

Similar experiments have been conducted with mammals which have shown the important role socialisation has in species recognition and subsequent social and even sexual orientation. (There is a good story on record (Hediger, 1950) about a hand-reared bull moose that became amorous with his keeper rather than the female moose with whom he was supposed to be having an assignation).

Puppies, born blind and deaf and relatively immobile, are not fully able to start the process of species recognition at birth. However, an experiment on this question was conducted at Utrecht University where half of a litter of newborn puppies had no exposure to humans while the other half were exposed to a high level of human scent for just 30 seconds, after which the litter was kept in isolation from human contact for several weeks. When they were reintroduced to human company, it was found that the puppies that had received the early exposure to the researcher’s scent had a distinct preference for investigating people as opposed to investigating other environmental stimuli, whereas puppies that had not had the early experience showed no preference. In 1961 Freedman, King and Elliot identified the age of three weeks as the start of a puppy’s critical period, in terms of social/environmental interaction and the commencement of their capacity to develop social relationships. Significantly, this is the point in time when the puppy becomes truly mobile and can hear and coincides with increased electrical activity in the brain (Fox 1971a).

Michael Fox (1971a), a behavioural researcher, found that three week old Chihuahua puppies fostered individually in litters of four week old kittens would, at twelve weeks, prefer the company of cats over the company of their litter mates that had not been fostered. Additionally, the foster mother’s kittens were found to be able to relate to dogs whereas kittens from other litters who had not had a canine companion thrust upon them avoided contact with dogs. In the same year, Michael Fox (1971a) carried out a subtler but even more revealing experiment. Litters of puppies were split into three groups: one group of puppies were hand-reared from birth and received no canine contact; the second group were given an equal amount of canine and human contact; and the third group only experienced the company of other puppies and their dam. When these three groups of puppies were reunited those that had only experienced human interaction preferred the company of those who had received the same rearing experience. Similarly, those puppies who had been exposed to both human and canine company preferred the company of puppies of the same upbringing, as did the puppies only used to canine company.

Perhaps the most significant tests of all are those carried out in 1961 by Freedman, King and Elliot, which found that if puppies are kept in isolation from man and introduced at different ages their response to man deteriorates with age of first exposure. The results show that if puppies are introduced to humans for the first time between three to five weeks they will approach confidently, but those that are introduced between five and seven weeks of age will show increasing amounts of apprehension. Those puppies whose first experience of man is at nine weeks old or later will be totally fearful. In 1968 Scott concluded from his research into puppies kept in isolation from man until fourteen weeks “by fourteen weeks fear and escape responses have become so strong that any puppy raised in these surroundings acts like a wild animalâ€. Freedman, King and Elliot also found that puppies exposed to human company at fourteen weeks for the first time never developed a positive approach.

So far, the research cited has been concerned with aspects of socialisation, but what of habituation, i.e. environmental stimuli rather than social interaction? Experiments have been designed to reveal a puppy’s sensitive period for habituation, for example, puppies housed in conditions devoid of stimulation were placed in a test area with various articles for just half an hour at five, eight, twelve and sixteen weeks. These puppies were found to be increasingly keen to explore the items and to develop a preference for those that provided more complex stimuli. However, puppies who did not enter the test area until they were over eight weeks old tended to withdraw from rather than explore the items, and those who did not experience the test area until they were twelve or sixteen weeks old frequently became catatonic with fear (Fox 1971a). These results correlate with those from socialisation tests, reinforcing the theory that there is a critical period in which a puppy needs a stimulus-rich environment and social interaction.

Experiments have also shown that puppies, pre-stressed in early life, subsequently have a good capacity for coping with stress and those that do not receive the stressful experiences respond to stress less well as they mature (Fox). This has to be significant for anyone interested in dog training as it is essential to the success of training that a dog is able to cope with stress and has a positive response to complex stimuli and situations. Stress inhibits learning, and training requires of the dog the capacity to process complex stimuli.
 

Doberluv

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#35
"One may ask why a fearful response develops if puppies don’t actually have an unpleasant or fear evoking experience associated with novel stimuli. The answer is that in their natural environment wild canids, specifically the wolf, to whom the domestic dog is related, have to be alert to danger, which means treating anything which they are not already familiar with as potentially hazardous. This means that wolf cubs have only a few weeks to develop positive associations with their own kind and immediate environment, after which they become increasingly cautious about things and situations not previously encountered. This saves them from blithely trotting up to something such as a snake and investigating it. The problem the domestic dog has is that it needs to become familiar with an enormous number of stimuli in a very short time so as to be able to live in and cope with the diversity of our world.

What practical applications do we have that bear out the research? Guide Dogs for the Blind, who, until 1956, used to rely on the donation of adult dogs which they took on approval to maintain their training stock. The success rate of these dogs fluctuated between 9 and 11 percent and it was recognised that this could be improved if the association could supervise the rearing of puppies. These were purchased and placed in private homes at between ten and twelve weeks old or even later. Things improved, but the results were not good enough. It was Derek Freeman, who pushed to have puppies placed in private homes at an earlier age to optimise socialisation and habituation during the critical development period. Derek had a strong belief in Scott and Fuller’s work and importance of early socialisation and habituation in the production of dogs that were best able to survive and perform in the world at large.

Derek found that six weeks was the best time to place puppies in private homes; any later critically reduced the time left before the puppies reached twelve weeks; but if puppies were removed from their dam and litter mates before six weeks they missed the opportunity to be properly socialised with their own kind, which resulted in inept interactions with other dogs in later life. The training success rate soared because of this policy, which was carried out in conjunction with the management of the gene pool via the breeding scheme Derek also pioneered. Annual success rates in excess of 75 percent became common. You might think that this is a special scheme for dogs with a special function. In fact, what the scheme provides is adult dogs with sound temperaments. These dogs coincidentally make the best material for guide dog training which does not start until they have been assessed at ten months or older. As a result of the breeding scheme, Derek Freeman also proved, if proof was needed, that you cannot dismiss the importance of genetic predisposition, i.e. the basic material required for good temperament can be produced through good breeding. Conversely, a lack of habituation/socialisation can ruin the chance of an individual developing a sound temperament, however good the genealogy.

There is another parameter within which dog owners, breeders and trainers etc. are obliged to work if a puppy’s potential is to be maximised. Research has revealed the fact that socialisation and habituation can wear off. J.H. Woolpy’s work with wolves in 1968 showed that adult captive wolves can be socialised with man with six months’ careful handling. This was highly skilled work carried out under very artificial conditions and remained specific to those conditions, and the team of skilled researchers involved reported that the experiment was very dangerous. The researchers found that if those wolves subsequently had less contact with them, their level of socialisation did not regress, but wolf cubs that were socialised in the optimum period, i.e. up to twelve to fourteen weeks, lost their socialising capacity when interaction with the researchers was withdrawn. If well-socialised puppies are placed in a kennel environment between three and four months of age, and left there in virtual isolation until they are between six and eight months of age, they will be shy of strangers and even of their caretakers if they have not handled them much (Michael Fox 1978). Therefore socialisation and habituation has to be continually reinforced throughout the animal’s juvenile period (Woolpy, 1968). In the dog this is from twelve weeks to maturity.

Let us consider a practical example of how this research affects the dog owner. A puppy, well-socialised with children until it is twelve weeks old, will require the socialisation to continue until it is mature, for the full benefits to be achieved. The same rule applies to a puppy who has been habituated to hearing traffic in the first few weeks of life but is then kept in a quiet rural environment until it is six or more months old, i.e. without periodic exposure and reinforcement it is likely to become fearful in the presence of traffic."
 

Doberluv

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#36
"Everything stated so far leads to the question of why, if the benefits of socialisation and habituation are so irrefutably proven, are so many dogs under socialised and habituated? The reasons vary, but an examination of the early history of the seventy-nine dogs mentioned at the beginning of this chapter shows that they fall into two main categories (groups A and B):

A: Those that are retained by the breeder until they are well into, or even past, the critical period in an environment devoid of stimulation or with limited stimulation.

B: Those that are retained in the new owner’s household until the puppy’s vaccination programme is complete, often long after the critical period has passed.

Group No of Dogs Age Acquired by owner Puppy's Environment
A 4 Up to 10 weeks Barn or shed
6 10 - 12 weeks Kennel or Equivalent
16 12 - 16 weeks Kennel or breeder's home
15 Over 16 weeks Kennel or breeder's home
B 38 6 - 12 weeks Retained within new owner's home until vaccination complete, often after 16 weeks of age

Of those in group A we have to take into account the fact that breeders sometimes cannot find enough suitable homes quickly enough. Having said that, it is unfortunate that some breeders believe that most families are unsuitable to look after a puppy when it is six weeks old, although it is difficult to see what suddenly makes a family suitable when the puppy is eight, ten or twelve weeks old. All too often breeders, unaware of the harm they are doing, retain puppies well into and sometimes past the critical socialisation and habituation period so that they, the breeders, have time to choose which puppy or puppies they wish to keep for showing before launching the rest on the unsuspecting public. There is in essence nothing wrong in the breeder retaining a puppy for as long as they want, as long as they systematically ensure that each puppy is properly socialised and habituated as an individual. Each puppy needs to learn to cope with the environment without the support of its litter brothers and sisters and other dogs. Although this is possible, in practice, it is very time-consuming.

In group B, the implementation of vaccination programmes was a major contributor to the number of psychologically disturbed puppies. This was done in the name of the puppy’s physiological well-being. In the 1950’s a researcher named Baker showed that by twelve weeks of age, 98 percent of puppies have lost their maternally derived immunity to infection, which meant that if puppies were vaccinated at twelve weeks the vaccination would have a high take-up rate. To ensure that the puppies were not exposed to sources of infection in the meantime they had to be isolated in the owner’s household until there were at least twelve weeks old, and normally for two or more weeks after that. Once again, it was Derek Freeman who pioneered the way forward. He had an urgent need to socialise and habituate puppies within the critical period, i.e from six weeks onwards, but of course he had to ensure protection from infection. After consultation with Wellcome Guide Dogs for the Blind developed a policy of systematically vaccinating all puppies at six weeks and then repeating the innoculations at intervals to catch those few whose level of maternally derived immunity was too high for the vaccine to take on the first occasion. This removed the need for the first approach used which was to blood test every bitch for a titre count. In more recent years drug companies have recognised the need for early socialisation and therefore early vaccination. As a result vaccines designed for early use, with the additional benefit of an ability to overcome the immunity gap (the period of time in which the puppies’ maternally derived antibodies are too low in number to prevent infection but numerous enough to kill off any vaccine given, i.e. this type of vaccine will take as soon as the maternal antibodies are too low to resist infection).

Having looked at the theoretical aspects of early socialisation and habituation, what are the mechanics required to achieve it?
Instead of socialisation and habituation being a haphazard affair with experiences occurring at random, as is so often the case, a puppy’s exposure to environmental stimuli should be as systematic as possible to ensure the best chance of it developing a sound temperament and capacity to cope in all circumstances. A lot of responsibility lies with the breeder. Of course, it is the breeder who selects the genetic make-up of a dam and sire best suited to produce puppies of good temperament. The breeder’s role continues the moment a puppy is born, as it starts to get used to being handled and to the breeder’s scent. As the puppy and its litter mates group up, the breeder should increase the amount of interaction the puppies have with them and other people. If the breeder is a woman, for example, and she is the exclusive, or almost exclusive human contact the puppies have, they are likely to be less well adjusted towards men and children. It is sensible therefore, to invite men and children into the household to see and handle the puppies, particularly if the puppies remain with the breeder after they are six weeks old. It is, of course, important that veterinary advice on hygiene procedures is given.

It is not only important for breeders to socialise the puppies in their care, but they must ensure exposure to environmental stimuli. Not being able to take puppies off the premises in the first six weeks is limiting, but a puppy that has had regular experience of a television, vacuum cleaner, etc. will be more able to cope with the world than one that has been shut away in a quiet kennel or room. Audio tapes of environmental stimuli can also be made and played. Such techniques can be helpful if an older puppy is unwell or for some other reason cannot be taken outside the home."http://www.apbc.org.uk/articles/puppysocialisation
 

smkie

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#37
THat's a lot of words for something so simple to do. Walk your dog. Take your dog places, and let them ride in the car. Around here these dog owners have buttitis.I would go a bit stark raving mad if I never got off an acre too and everything for the most part is unstimulating.

Nobody was more upset, scared, and reactive than Victor when he came but look at him now. I swear by walking, it all gets it all done, heel, sit, stop, leave it, while having an adventure. However that would require some effort out of the owner and it's easier to do the opposite. It makes me really unhappy with people when they start complaining about their dog and his behavior.
 

Doberluv

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#38
Well, the way the brain works, the mechanisms (in this case, imprinting & habituation) and how they function in mammals for them to survive, be able to reproduce and pass on their genes is not simple. It's like saying there's nothing to a camera....how a camera works is simple. All you do is point and shoot.:p So, there may be a lot of words there, but there's also a lot of interesting information about how dogs process stimuli, how their pituitary works during that sensitive socialization period, to produce brain hormones responsible for processing information, and what affects isolation or an absence of stimuli during that very early, sensitive period have on them. Yeah...from a layman's perspective, all you have to do is point and shoot. But for those who want to know what, where, why, how, when and where it all begins, where it goes, there is a manual for that. LOL.
 

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