I had practiced restrained recalls a fair bit in the summer but I'll have to start back up on those... as well as the tugging. She only likes to tug/play fetch on her own terms although usually if I get excited enough, she's happy to join in.
I would saying getting her more interested, more consistently in the tugging and bringing balls back to you (both thrown and "dead") would be the biggest priority to work on before flyball. Not because you have to have those things before starting but because things will go a lot easier if you do.
In our beginner flyball class, I teach the foundation portion and my flyball friend teaches the flyball portion. The things we work on in the foundation section are:
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Restrains: not restrained recalls (they do that in the flyball portion) but teaching the dog to pull into their harness/collar and get revved up when the owner gives the "ready???" cue. We usually do this to some sort of really high value treat in a bowl. Dogs who won't pull into a restrain at all start really close to the bowl and are release as soon as the handler feels any pressure. As they do better, the handler waits longer or moves further from the target (upping one thing at a time). The dogs who are already willing to pull into the restrain can do more distance or work on getting them more excited.
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Wrapping: circling around cones or jump uprights, first with the handler close by and helping and gradually getting further and further away and wrapping with speed. This is pretty much just like Silvia TRkman's early Cik and Cap training. Teaches the dog to learn how to use their body for making fast turns, to go away from you at speed and to go around objects at speed (cones or props may be used to help with box turns).
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Paw Targeting: taught mostly as a way to then get the dogs to interact with objects that make noise and/or move in a fun, positive way. Teach them to move skateboard, close cupboard doors, foot whack stuff that makes noise to help prepare them for the box (which both moves and makes noise).
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Four in/four on: get into a box, get on a box using increasingly smaller boxes over time. This is another thing that teaches dogs to interact with objects in different ways and as the boxes get smaller, it teaches them to have more awareness of their legs and encourages flexibility.
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Tricks: We work on other tricks that encourage balance, flexibility and coordination too. Sit up, stand on back legs, beginnings of a handstand, spin in both directions, back up, etc.